Orchestra in performance
Female opera singer mid performance in a blue Arabian style dress

Opera singer Anna Netrebko portraying Adriana Lecouvreur, wearing a costume encrusted with Swarovski crystals. © Swarovski/Thomas Steinlechner

LUX Editor-in-Chief Darius Sanai attends the premiere night of Adriana Lecouvreur sponsored by Swarovski at the Salzburg Festival

Darius Sanai with Nadja Swarovski

LUX had a wonderful time at the weekend at the Salzburg Festival’s premiere of the choral opera Adriana Lecouvreur, featuring the astonishing Anna Netrebko, probably the greatest singer in the world, in the title role. Netrebko’s voice was a performance in itself at the Grosses Festspielhaus in Salzburg, powerful, emotive, an orchestra without an orchestra.

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Our editor-in-chief Darius Sanai enjoyed some engaging chats over Louis Roederer champagne afterwards with Nadja Swarovski, who sponsored the show, and various members of the Swarovski family and their friends.

Swarovski also provided the crystals for the costumes worn by the leading roles – and Netrebko in a stunning green gown adorned with crystals that seemed to radiate beams of light, in the first act, was particularly memorable.

Utterly fabulous, and Netrebko’s was a performance for the ages.

Find out more: salzburgerfestspiele.at and swarovski.com

Inside a costume making workshop

The costumes in making (here and below). Image by Thomas Steinlechner

Artistic sketch of costume dress

Opera singer in an orange dress in performance

Anna Netrebko in performance. © Swarovski/Thomas Steinlechner

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Reading time: 1 min
Shave head female model against blue sky

graphic banner in red, white and blue reading Charlie Newman's model of the month

Portrait of female model with shaved head

Model and creative director Emily O’Donnell. Instagram: @emily.j.odonnell

LUX contributing editor and model at Models 1, Charlie Newman continues her online exclusive series, interviewing her peers about their creative pursuits, passions and politics

colour headshot of blond girl laughing with hand against face wearing multiple rings

Charlie Newman

THIS MONTH: 21-year-old Emily O’Donnell signed with Models 1 just under a year ago and has already shot for the likes of Vogue Italia, LOVE magazine, Hunger and iD China. Having recently graduated from UAL, she is also pursuing a career in creative direction whilst making art and music on the side. Here, she chats to Charlie about juggling her passions, how structure hinders creativity and collaborating with Nike.

Charlie Newman: What was your childhood like? Are you from a creative background?
Emily O’ Donnell: I was born in Leeds, where my mum is from. At two weeks old I moved to Milan because my dad is Italian and that’s where I was raised, which explains why I have such a weird accent! I was in Milan until I was about 17 years old but by then I was itching to get back to the UK, so I moved to Birmingham for two years to finish my diploma in art and design. After that I moved to London and studied at UAL, so I’ve been studying art since I was 13. The schooling system is really different in Italy, in Milan you have to choose what you want to do at 12 years old, and my choice was art! I don’t actually have creative parents. When I was growing up, music was the main thing for me. I was a super RnB head, my main inspiration until this day is Erykah Badu.

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Charlie Newman: Congratulations on graduating from UAL! What was your final project on?
Emily O’ Donnell: My course was fashion styling and production but I shifted more into creative direction which is what I’m doing more of now. I did a short film based around the importance of the body within cultural fabric, whether that’s within religion or cultural tradition. I basically explored the meaning of fabric within different religions and sort of distilled the two – body and fabric – and then reworked them in a more contemporary way. I created a film and an editorial.

Charlie Newman: Do you think it is important to study the arts is if you looking to work in a creative industry?
Emily O’ Donnell: I think especially for art and fashion I don’t think you necessarily need it, I’m not saying I haven’t learnt anything, I definitely have, especially at UAL, it’s been great platform to network. But as far as your creative flow and your creative knowledge goes, I don’t think being in such a structured environment helps. For me, university courses aren’t structured for you like to your work. By the time I finished a project I always hated the work, I was done with it. But it’s definitely been a good experience, I’ve learnt from it. I’m just now ready to move on.

Charlie Newman: When did you sign with Models 1 and how were you scouted?
Emily O’ Donnell: My friend wanted to go to this scouting event at a Brandy Melville store and I said I would go along with her to support – I really had no interest in it. We were both asked to come back and having seen my Instagram, Models 1 wanted me on their talent board and New Faces. I signed with them almost a year ago. It’s been good, I’m a workaholic and I really need to keep working and they know that! I saw a few agencies before but having been a freelancer for a few years I knew that if I were to be signed by an agency, I really wanted one that would take care of me so it’s been great. Models 1 know I don’t just wanted to be modelling, that they need to push my whole career. I’m not just my face.

Emily O'Donnell walking through water in a dress

Instagram: @emily.j.odonnell

Charlie Newman: What are you working on now?
Emily O’ Donnell: I’m working on a few projects to expand my creative direction portfolio. I’m working on a combination of commissioned and personal work. I paint too and I’ve been working on an EP for the past year now. Because of university I’ve had to put everything on pause and now that I’m done with it I can throw myself back into it all – no summer breaks for me!

Read more: Test driving Michelin’s tyres for supercars

Charlie Newman: How do you juggle it all?
Emily O’ Donnell: You know how people say that you can only master one art and you can’t do them all? Well for me it’s a necessity to have different outlets for me to be creative. I don’t think I could stick to one job for the rest of my life and for that to be it. I’ve always said that I’m going to work my ass off to make sure that I’m not in a position that I don’t want to be in. I never see it as Emily the painter, Emily the singer, Emily the creative director, Emily the model. They’re all a part of me and I love them all, I can’t not do any of them. If I’m not working enough I really feel it – I hate it.

Charlie Newman: Last year, Nike asked you to create a video for the launch of their new tracksuit campaign. What was it like collaborating with such a huge brand?
Emily O’ Donnell: I’m so lucky I have such an amazing relationship with Nike, they’re like family to me. They’re one of my favourite brands so when they reached out, of course I went for it. They gave me so much freedom for the video too which was great, all they told me was that it had to be fresh, be London and focus on youth culture. That job of course opened a lot of doors for me, I can’t thank them enough. If every there’s an opportunity for me to be in the right place at the right time I’ll take it!

Shave head female model against blue sky

Instagram: @emily.j.odonnell

Charlie Newman: What would be your dream project now?
Emily O’ Donnell: I really want to push my creative direction more into high end designers. I’ve done a lot of sportswear designers so it would be nice to mix it up.

Charlie Newman: What are you listening to or watching at the moment?
Emily O’ Donnell: I’m listening to Tyler the Creator, D’Angelo and Solange. I don’t really do series when it comes to film, because I don’t have the time. But having done film studies I’m really into David Lynch and Stanley Cooper, all the classics. I feel like when I watch movies now I’m only seeing the technical side of it, how they’ve shot it. I find it really hard for my brain to switch off. I watch a lot of documentaries because I find it much easier to watch, there’s less to analyse and it’s more informative.

Close up shot of a female model wearing pink eye shadow with eyes closed

Instagram: @emily.j.odonnell

Charlie Newman: You have such a distinctive beautiful look. When did you decide to shave your hair?
Emily O’ Donnell: I’ve had my head shaved for two years and before that I had a big brown bob, a bob! I feel like this is a much much better for my work, although it’s such an effort, I shave it and bleach it every week! People often say to me that they can’t work out where I’m from. It’s fresh and I’m really happy with it.

Charlie Newman: What do you think has been a career highlight for you?
Emily O’ Donnell: I wouldn’t like to say because I never like to sit back and I’m always onto the next thing. I’m lucky to have done so many sick shoots.

Charlie Newman: Finally, who’s your role model of the month?
Emily O’ Donnell: It’s got to be Erykah Badu, every time, I love her!

Follow Emily on Instagram: @emily.j.odonnell

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Reading time: 7 min
Yellow Ferrari sports car pictured in the desert

Yellow Ferrari sports car pictured in the desert

LUX Editor-in-Chief Darius Sanai tries out Michelin’s supercar tyres on his Ferrari 430 Spider to see whether they’re worth the investment

Tyres are a curiously under-explored subject when it comes to supercar optimisation and maintenance. You can have conversations all day long with fellow owners about filters, suspension geometry, engine remapping, and other arcane elements of your car’s construction that might add fractions of a second to your lap time on a circuit.

But conversations about the patches of rubber that actually transmit all the power, and handling, from the car to the road and vice versa, are frequently limited to the very basics. How big are your wheels? How wide are your tires? Are they okay to drive when they have a certain amount of tread left, or a certain age?

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But tyres are, as any Formula One driver knows, far more important than that. Not only are they the only point of contact between your car and the road, they also elements of your car that will never, ever be made by the manufacturer of your car. You may have a Ferrari, a McLaren, or a Lamborghini, but your tyres will always be made by third-party manufacturers.

Each manufacturer has a range of tyres optimised for types of car and driving. My Ferraris were all supplied with Pirelli P Zero tyres, with the owners’ handbooks stating that these and similar Michelin and Bridgestone tyres were all officially approved. Owners’ forums, meanwhile, were full of discussion about the latest range of Michelin tyres for supercars, the Pilot Sport 4S.

Product image of the Michelin PS4S tyres

Michelin PS4S tyres

Of all my Ferraris, there is one model that has become my car of choice for a sunny, weekend high-speed drive in the countryside. The 430 Spider is the last of the line in a significant way. Certain model lines of Ferrari are celebrated for their ‘mid engines’, meaning the engine is located just behind the driver’s head, rather than under the front bonnet. They are also celebrated for their “gated manual” gearshift: a metal manual gear-lever which moves around a race-style bar metal gate, a work of art in itself. The 430 Spider is the last, and most modern, Ferrari that combines these two attributes; all mid-engined Ferraris since then have been made only with paddle-style gearshifts by the steering wheel, and no clutch pedals, like an automatic.

So the 430 Spider is a piece of history, and quite rare: a few hundred were made in right-hand drive. And it’s also tremendous fun to drive, combining a 485hp engine behind your head, no roof, sharp handling, and the opportunity to shift gear yourself. There was nothing wrong with the way it drove on its Pirelli tyres, in fact it was quite thrilling, but I decided to swap over to the new Michelins to see if they made any difference.

Read more: Investigating Vincent van Gogh’s iconic masterpiece

First thing to notice: the car rides appreciably more smoothly on the new tyres. Lumps in the road that formerly jarred now only bump. But you don’t buy a Ferrari for its comfortable ride.

Yellow sports car driving along a desert road

Going for an enthusiastic drive, the improvements made themselves known more subtly. Previously, turning into a corner, the car felt sharp, but now that sharpness, and feel, was there all the way through each curve. It was as if there was a new channel of communication open with the road. Push harder around the corner, and the feel increased: you had a stronger sense of what the car was doing.

Modern Ferraris have a switch on the steering wheel that allows you to flick between driving modes; the F430 was the first to have this, and for enthusiastic driving I switch mine to Race. This sharpens up responses and also means the car is allowed to slide around a bit when you are driving at its limit, before the electronic systems (usually) catch the car. Pushing on, in Race mode, the car now feels more adhesive at the limit – it simply feels like it sticks to the road more. It’s not a transformation – the car always had superb roadholding – but now you feel more on the way, and can stay gripping the road longer.

Read more: 6 mountain restaurants to stir your soul this summer

I haven’t tested another of the PS4S’s supposed attributes, its wet weather grip, because I don’t take my car out in the wet; and hope not to test another of its noted qualities, its performance under emergency braking.

Normally, performance and comfort in tyres are in inverse proportion: the more comfortable the tyre, the less suited to high-speed driving, and vice versa. The PS4S (not to be confused with another Michelin tyre, the less sporty PS4) manages somehow to combine both. In terms of investing in an upgrade in your car: if you have a car worth £150,000 (or euros, or dollars) or more, spending around 1% of that on a set of new Pilot Sport 4S tyres might just be the smartest investment you make.

Find out more at michelin.com and ferrari.com

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Reading time: 4 min
Painting of erupting volcano
Painting of erupting volcano

‘Vesuvius in Eruption’ (1817–20) by JMW Turner

The Watercolour World is an ambitious online project to digitise the world’s watercolours and rescue this all-too-often overlooked but artistically and historically significant medium from being forgotten. It is creating a wealth of riches for all of us, says Michael Brooks

Fred Hohler describes the idea as “blindingly obvious” in hindsight. Having spearheaded the creation of a digital record of the United Kingdom’s oil paintings, the former diplomat soon realised his Public Catalogue Foundation had left an ‘orphan’ collection of watercolours in dark drawers, cabinets and basements across the world.

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Now, though, these paintings are emerging, blinking, into the light. The Watercolour World is a rapidly growing website that hosts digital reproductions of watercolours from around the world. Even in these early days – the site’s official launch was in January 2019 – it has become an engrossing collection. Whether you are captivated by an 1840 view of Kings Cross as a rubbish dump – the ‘Great Dustheap’ – or sailors chasing a slave ship near Zanzibar in 1876, a seemingly inexhaustible supply of riches is coming into view. “I have a new favourite about four times a day,” Hohler admits.

Watercolour is often passed over as an unimportant medium, despite the fact that Ruskin, Gainsborough, Turner and Constable all used it at various times. “The lower status of watercolour was owing to the fact that it had been invented relatively recently, had not been used by the Old Masters, and was widely used by amateurs for documentary purposes,” says Sir Charles Saumarez Smith, senior director of Blain Southern gallery, and former chief executive of the Royal Academy of Arts.

Watercolour architectural style drawing of a tomb

‘Untitled’ [Section of the tomb of Psammuthis in Thebes, discovered and opened by Belzoni in 1818] (1817–20) by Giovanni Belzoni or Alessandro Ricci

In many ways, this negative view of the medium is what makes the new collection so compelling. In the 17th century, for instance, watercolour was the military medium of choice. Before photography, painting was considered the best way to keep tabs on where the military had been, and how easy its terrain and infrastructures would be to defend. “From the time of George III, the way of making a record for the military, then the civil service overseas, and the navy, was watercolour,” Hohler says.

At Woolwich Military Academy and elsewhere, officers studied drawing and were taught how to survey a landscape and draw coasts and harbours so that the knowledge of newly gained territories could be spread amongst the military. The watercolourist Paul Sandby was among those who did the training, and the courses were clearly popular, with many accomplished amateur painters emerging from the military academies. As a result, military, government and private collections are awash with watercolour landscapes from across the world, all painted with an attention to detail.

watercolour painting of rising dust clouds

‘The Great Dust- Heap, next to Battle Bridge and the Smallpox Hospital’ (1837) by E. H. Dixon

Many of them, however, have not seen the light of day for decades, if not centuries. “Watercolour as a medium is naturally more susceptible to the effects of heat and light,” says the charity’s chief executive Andra Fitzherbert. “As a result, they tend to be hidden away in dark places or kept in albums where they’re rarely pulled out and enjoyed.”

Read more: 6 mountain restaurants to stir your soul this summer

And that’s where The Watercolour World project comes in. Launched with the patronage of the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall, and realised through support from the Marandi Foundation, The Watercolour World aims to collate hundreds of thousands of watercolour paintings, many of which have never been available to the public until now.

Watercolour painting of Mount Vesuvius erupting with plumes of smoke

‘Untitled’ [eruption of Mount Vesuvius, 1760–61] (1776) by Pietro Fabris

It’s a labour of love, but it will also be very useful, Hohler says. For a start, the watercolours facilitate the re-creation of lost historical artefacts. Paintings in the collection show the ancient Syrian city of Palmyra, which has been extensively destroyed by ISIS. Hohler and Fitzherbert hope that The Watercolour World will one day be useful to its regeneration. Then there are the watercolours depicting the tombs of Pharaoh Sety I. The wall paintings of these tombs were damaged by those keen to profit from exhibiting the contents and recreating the spaces for a London audience in the 19th century. Thanks to watercolours, there is a record of how they once looked, and The Watercolour World will be an invaluable resource for future archaeological research.

Watercolour painting of horse and cart by Thomas Gainsborough

‘Woodland Scene with a Peasant, a Horse, and a Cart’ (c. 1760) by Thomas Gainsborough

Just as exciting is the scientific potential of the project. Many watercolours offer a view of a world that no longer exists and are a means by which conservationists, ocean scientists, coastal engineers and geologists can reach back into the past, make sense of the present, and perhaps safeguard the future.

There is strong precedent for this. In the 1860s, the government moved the Gunditjmara, the Aboriginal people of the area, off Tower Hill, an extinct volcano in Victoria, Australia. They proceeded to clear the land’s thick vegetation for grazing. Only in the 1960s was there a move to restore the area. Fortunately, the watercolourist Eugene von Guérard had made a painting of the virgin land in 1855, a painting so detailed that the authorities could identify more than 20 species of plant to use in the restoration project.

Read more: Geoffrey Kent discusses the influence of top-earning millennials

The vast and growing catalogue of paintings in The Watercolour World means that similar restorations might be possible in other areas. Some of the paintings are already in use in a project to catalogue changes in the British coastline over the past 250 years. Geologist and coastal engineer Robin McInnes is in the closing stages of The State of the British Coast Study, which was commissioned by The Crown Estate, the European Commission and Historic England. Using a range of sources, including paintings in The Watercolour World, McInnes has been able to discern where and when beaches have eroded, cliff lines have changed and engineering projects have made an impact on the shoreline. The results of the study will be used to aid conservation and ecological efforts. “They’ve been feeding me coastal images, many from private collections that have never been seen before. I’ve been able to use some in my study,” McInnes says. Some are from less highbrow sources, too. “Postcard companies employed some prolific watercolour artists to paint the coast.”

Watercolour painting of an old fashioned campsite

‘The Encampment in Hyde Park’ (1781) by Paul Sandby

Another environmental application will be in surveys of glaciers. Watercolours have a strong history here. The first known depiction of a glacier, made in 1601, was Abraham Jäger’s painting of the Rofener Glacier in Austria. By the middle of the 19th century, artists were painting faithful renditions of scenes at the heads of glaciers. John Brett’s Glacier of Rosenlaui, for instance, shows the position of the glacier in 1856, as well as a detailed portrait of the erratics, the boulders at its head that had been carried by the ice. The Watercolour World’s collection includes renditions of glaciers by Horace Bénédict de Saussure, the precision of which give a marker for recent glacier retreat. “Climate change is on almost everybody’s mind right now, but in the 19th century artists and scientists were working together documenting glaciers,” says Barbara Matilsky, who curated last year’s ‘Vanishing Ice’ exhibition at the Weisman Art Museum in Minneapolis. Many of the show’s 47 artworks, dating from 1860 to 2017, showed evidence of climate change.

watercolour painting of cliffs and the sea

‘Bat’s Hole’ (no date) by Henry Joseph Moule

Using The Watercolour World as a scientific resource is a “fabulous idea”, Matilsky says. She points out that artists and scientists have long worked together to document the natural environment. In the 19th century, for instance, geologists at the Museum of Natural History in Paris commissioned artists to paint glaciers. “They wanted to show students what they look like so they could intuit from these works the processes that formed the glaciers,” Matilsky says. “Scientists were very much aware that artists were important in communicating scientific concepts.”

At the other end of Earth’s temperature scale, The Watercolour World includes dozens of paintings of volcanoes. The 1776 eruption of Vesuvius is particularly well represented, because the British diplomat Sir William Hamilton commissioned the artist Pietro Fabris to paint 54 illustrations of the volcano for his scientific studies of its geology.

Read more: Sir Rocco Forte on building his empire of luxury hotels

Fitzherbert is keen to point out that The Watercolour World will be of relevance to everyone, not just to scientists and culture professionals. All of the images have searchable location and keyword information, allowing people to explore their family history and their local area’s past. “We want to make it personal so that people can navigate through a map and find local places of interest and find family homes or where they were brought up,” she says. “People can use these paintings to reflect on their own lives.”

The Watercolour World operates a small team, equipped with a Fujitsu ScanSnap scanner, to perform the digitisation. In addition, a group of volunteers tag and categorise the images, adding their locations and all relevant data about the artist’s intentions. Only then are they uploaded onto the site.

The project has yielded unexpected gains. One is that, in some ways, the website offers something even better than a gallery viewing. The scanners provide a depth of colour and an ability to zoom in that just aren’t available in a static display. What’s more, observing the paintings on screens means they are, effectively, backlit. “You see it in an entirely different way,” Hohler says. “It’s given a brilliance to these images that you don’t otherwise get.”

Though the collection is already clocking in at 83,000 images, a queue is forming. “The wonderful thing is, as soon as you launch a project like this, it belongs to everybody,” Hohler says. Many institutions and organisations have offered their digitised collections. The Watercolour World is even receiving offers to scan private collections that have never been made public, let alone digitised. “We’ve been overwhelmed by people’s positivity and encouragement,” Fitzherbert says.

Find out more: watercolourworld.org

This article was originally published in the Summer 19 Issue

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Reading time: 8 min
Sir Elton John standing with a Bentley sports car
Sir Elton John standing with a Bentley sports car

David Furnish and Sir Elton John with the Bentley Flying Spur at the Elton John Aids Foundation Gala in Antibes, France. Photo by David M. Benett/Dave Benett/Getty

Bentley auctions its new First Edition Flying Spur to raise funds for the Elton John Aids Foundation at a Midsummer gala in Cap d’Antibes

On Wednesday evening at Villa Dorane in Cap d’Antibes, the Elton John Aids Foundation hosted its first Midsummer party, welcoming guests for a cocktail reception followed by dinner and a live auction where Bentley’s newest model, the First Edition Flying Spur reached a bid of €700,000.

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The winning bidder will be invited to create their own bespoke version of the car through Bentley’s Co-Creation Luxury Service, which is normally offered only to an exclusive selection of clients. Working with the brand’s design team, the owner will have the opportunity to personalise both interior and exterior details. All proceeds raised will go directly to the foundation.

Read more: Jewellery designer Valérie Messika on trends and inspirations

“It’s because of the consistent support and kindness of so many people in this room that we are able to commit the Elton John AIDS Foundation to real partnerships with world leaders that can a make a future without AIDS,’ commented Sir Elton John who hosted the evening with David Furnish.

For more information visit: bentleymotors.com and ejaf.org

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Reading time: 1 min
Display of Van Gogh sunflower paintings
Sunflower painting by Vincent van Gogh

‘Sunflowers’, Vincent van Gogh, January 1889

One of the world’s most famous paintings Sunflowers (1889) has been carefully investigated, explored and restored for Van Gogh and the Sunflowers: A Masterpiece Examined at the Van Gogh Museum.

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As one of five sunflower paintings by Van Gogh, it is an iconic image of nineteenth century art and an important marker in still life painting. Yet, this latest exhibition transforms our view of the work by framing the masterpiece within its wide ranging and complex history.

Display of Van Gogh sunflower paintings

Installation image of ‘Van Gogh and the Sunflowers’ at the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam. Photo by Jan-Kees Steenman

On display are Van Gogh’s other flower paintings (not all sunflowers), the afterlife of the painting, its far-reaching influence, but also details of its recent conservation work. Most striking are the reconstructions by Charlotte Caspers, smaller canvases which copy views of the painting, using the same materials. These zoomed in views of the dying flower heads and of Van Gogh’s signature reveal the painting’s original colours, made up of brighter reds, pale lilacs and vivid chrome yellow. Through Casper’s work alongside the museum’s conservation team we are transported back to 1889 and the work’s conception. We are also shown x-ray images of the Sunflowers, revealing an added strip of canvas at the top of the painting, which Van Gogh used to correct the placement of the vase.

Read more: Sir Rocco Forte on building his empire of luxury hotels

Artist at work in the studio

Artist Charlotte Caspers painted reconstructions based on the results of research into the original colours of Van Gogh’s ‘Sunflowers’ in the Van Gogh Museum, 2019

Sketches of sunflowers in a sketch book

Vincent van Gogh, Sketches of vases with sunflowers, in sketchbook from Paris and Auvers-sur-Oise, 1890, Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation). Photo by Petra and Erik Hesmerg

 

Standing in front of the painting, you are struck by the subject. Van Gogh’s obsession with the flowers evident in his precision and delicacy, each of his decisive strokes visible in the thickly painted surface. The sunflowers, which were first drawn by the artist in 1886 in the wilds around Arles, have become part of his signature, as he stated in a letter to Paul Gauguin in 1889: ‘I indeed … have taken the sunflower’. His affinity with the flower is portrayed in the masterpiece through the subtle use of varying shades of yellow and ochre, and by the way he captures the plant’s lifecycle as we see heads simultaneously opening in bloom and dying.

Rosie Ellison-Balaam

‘Van Gogh and the Sunflowers: A Masterpiece Examined’ runs until 1 September 2019 at the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam. For more information visit: vangoghmuseum.nl

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Reading time: 2 min
Model leaning over a mirror wearing a red dress and diamond jewellery
Model wears tribal style jewellery

The ‘Black Hawk’ high jewellery collection by Messika

Valérie Messika grew up playing with precious stones. Her father, Andre, was renowned in the diamond industry for decades, but at the age of 25, Valérie discovered a niche in the market: everyday, wearable diamonds. She founded her eponymous brand around this ethos and Messika has since become a favourite amongst celebrities with stores across the globe. Here, we speak to the designer about fashion, Parisian style and designing for men

Portrait of a woman smiling in diamond jewellery

Valérie Messika by David Ferrura

1. What’s your most cherish piece of jewellery?

When I was young, my grandmother, who is one of the most amazing women I have ever met, gave me one of her rings. It is a pear shaped 9.30 carat diamond, it is my favourite piece of jewellery.

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2. How much attention do you pay to trends?

I am a real fashion lover! I get my inspiration from a lot of things, at all times– but fashion and haute couture are one of my biggest sources of inspiration. I find inspiration by walking the streets in Paris and looking at people’s attitude and style. I admire the Parisiennes; they look so chic but always in a very minimal and trendy way.

Model leaning over a mirror wearing a red dress and diamond jewellery

Pieces from the ‘Desert Bloom’ high jewellery collection by Messika

3. What makes a piece of jewellery timeless?

To be timeless, a piece of jewellery must be a mix between classic and contemporary, but always with a twist of modernity.

4. Do you approach designing for men and women differently?

I get my inspiration from people that surround me such as my two daughters, my husband and my father. I also take into consideration feedback from my clients, this is important to me.

Creating for men was about how I see men. Forging a bond between men and women’s jewellery was a real challenge. I have created a masculine interpretation of my iconic collection Move, that combines both power and lightness. The motif of the three moving diamonds is deeply imprinted in me and lies very close to my heart, it stands for the ‘love of yesterday, today and tomorrow’.

Read more: 6 mountain restaurants to stir your soul this summer

5. When you get dressed in the morning, which do you choose first: clothes or jewellery?

I am very lucky as I can change my jewellery every day. I always associate my jewels with my clothes. What I like is stacking bangles by mixing my signature collections, Move and Skinny. I adore wearing jewellery as fashion accessories.

Messika pieces are created to be worn on an everyday basis. Diamonds can be worn every day with a pair of jeans, your favourite sneakers or your favourite jumper!

Diamond earrings hanging on a branch of a tree

‘Wild Moon’ earrings by Messika

6. What’s your favourite jewel other than a diamond?

This is a tricky question as diamonds are in my DNA. This passion is my heritage. But I always have my Audemars Piguet watch that I consider to be like a piece of jewellery.

Discover Messika’s collections: messika.com

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Reading time: 2 min
City of zermatt with the matterhorn mountain in the distance
City of zermatt with the matterhorn mountain in the distance

Zermatt in summer with the Matterhorn in the distance. Image by Lorenzo Riva. Courtesy of Switzerland Tourism

Summertime in the Alps is exhilarating and inspiring. The sun (usually) shines, the air is clear, temperatures aren’t too sweltering and you are surrounded by lush pastures and high peaks. The cuisine is varied and uses an array of local ingredients: Alpine herbs, vegetables and fruit, local meats and cheeses. Here, we select six of the best places to enjoy mountain cuisine and sweeping vistas

1. Restaurant Findlerhof, Zermatt

Findeln is an ancient hamlet of dark wooden huts, on a mountainside high above the resort of Zermatt, just above the treeline. On the extensive terrace of the Findlerhof, you have a view across the forests to the magnificent Matterhorn, and you are surrounded by the sounds (grasshoppers, bees), sights (butterflies, wild flowers) and smells of the Alpine high pasture in summer.

Must try: All the food is high-class, simple Alpine quality, but the chocolate fondant is worth the journey in itself.

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2. Hotel Walther, Pontresina

This grand hotel at the end of the pretty high street in Pontresina, across the valley from St Moritz, has a grand dining room that is both grandiose and fun. A modern take on a traditional Alpine palace, it has an engaging holiday dinner ambience and superb wine list.

Must try: the traditional Swiss speciality of veal cooked sous-vide with roesti potatoes and local vegetables.

Interiors of a grand restaurant

Hotel Walther, Pontresina

Plate of food with lettuce garnish

Swiss speciality of roesti, potatoes cooked with bacon and herbs

3. Berghaus Wispile, Gstaad

Wispile is the big, forested green hill that rises above Gstaad, and in summer the restaurant at the top is transformed from a ski lodge to a family-friendly casual diner and farm with petting zoo, with beautiful views over the surrounding region. Kids can be taken on personalised goat petting tours by the local farmer in the neighbouring pasture; some regular human kid visitors have grown up with the kid goat residents over the years.

Must try: the special of the day, often local sausages with a rich gravy and vegetables

Chalet style restaurant pictured in the alps at summertime

Berghaus Wispile in Gstaad

Read more: Geoffrey Kent on the influence of top-earning millennials

4. Avenue Montaigne, Hotel Park Gstaad

Contemporary Swiss chic abounds at the Montaigne, which brings a touch of Paris to Gstaad. This is a place for a long, relaxed dinner, followed by a cigar in the cigar lounge, over cocktails, blending city sophistication with Alpine feel.

Must try: The Swiss quinoa tabbouleh, combining parsley, goji berries, tomato and avocado.

luxury rustic interiors of an alpine restaurant with an open fire

Avenue Montaigne at Hotel Park Gstaad

5. Fuorcla Surlej, St Moritz

The wildest type of mountain hut, Fuorcla Surlej sits atop a mountain pass accessible only by foot, above St Moritz. To one side is a lake and a view over the glaciers, to the other is the deep valley of the Engadine. Hardy mountain food is served here, amid stunning views, on a basic terrace.

Must try: Whatever’s on offer that day – the kitchen makes it up according to the ingredients they can get.

Couple eating by the mountainside

Fuorcla Surlej in St Moritz. Image by Christof Sonderegger. Courtesy of Switzerland Tourism

6. Hornli Hut, Zermatt

Matterhorn mountain

Matterhorn viewed from the Hörnli hut. Image by Isabella Sanai

The Hörnli hut is the base camp for the Matterhorn; climbers arrive the afternoon before their climb, are subject to a strict curfew, and awaken well before dawn to start an ascent that some never return from. Ordinary people can also visit for lunch: it involves a rather vertiginous two-hour climb from the top lift station at Schwarzsee, but no actual climbing. After lunch, walk five minutes up from the hut to the point at which the wall of the Matterhorn starts: a vertical piece of rock with fixed ropes. The views are literally breathtaking. Not a place for the fainthearted.

Must try: The surprisingly excellent (for a place accessible only on foot) pasta al ragu, with rich local ingredients.

Discover more: myswitzerland.com

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Facade of a hotel at night lit with a purple sunset behind
Facade of Le Negresco hotel

Le Negresco hotel is the epitome of the French riviera

Why should I go now?

July is the month the city of Nice, capital of the French riviera, comes alive. Beaches are lively but not yet as teeming as in August, the nightlife is in full swing, the weather is warm and the sea is blue. If only there were a place to rise above it all – oh, wait, there is.

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What’s the lowdown?

Le Negresco is the epitome of the French riviera, with art and glamour at its heart. Whether you’re a fan of Princess Grace or Niki de St Phalle, Dalí or Louis Armstrong, there is something in the hotel to touch you – the grand facade even hides a roomful of street art.

Luxurious classic style dining room

The hotel’s two Michelin-starred restaurant Le Chantecler

Meanwhile you can hone your Riviera as it suits you; there’s live music every night on the Terrace, which looks out onto the Promenade des Anglais, the classic curved boulevard looping along the Mediterranean seafront; or disappear into old-world elegance in the two Michelin-starred Le Chantecler restaurant, with its 18th century grandeur.

Read more: Ruinart x Jonathan Anderson’s pop-up hotel in Notting Hill

Getting Horizontal

There are different styles of room as well as different price-categories. Decor in the rooms is a blend of classical and super-contemporary with suitably artistic touches in fixtures, fittings and funky wall coverings; meanwhile a sea view junior suite transports you to a time when the French riviera was pretty much the only seaside destination for anyone wealthy enough to visit on their Grand Tour, with rich classical furnishings.

Luxurious hotel suite with a balcony and views of the sea

One of the luxurious suites at Le Negresco

Flipside

Nice is a city with a rich cultural programme, and teeming with restaurants, bars, museums, gardens and artisanal shopping. The Negresco is the seafront hotel literally at the heart of it all, so it’s not a place to be if you want to be away from the world. But for a few nights of summer living, we love it.

Rates from: €155 per room ($200/£150)

Book your stay: hotel-negresco-nice.com

Darius Sanai

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Woman walking bare foot along the beach
Woman walking bare foot along the beach

How well do you know your socio-economic and demographic grouping acronyms?

Abercrombie & Kent founder and LUX contributor Geoffrey Kent discusses how a new generation of consumers are influencing brands

How well do you know your socio-economic and demographic grouping acronyms? From the best-known, like Yuppie and Wasp, to the more recent, Sinbad – there seems to be an acronym for everyone.

If you are a frequent reader of my columns here on LUX or if you’re familiar with our luxury travel company, Abercrombie & Kent, you might be forgiven for thinking that we concentrate on attracting Dinkies, Tinkies (two incomes, nanny and kids), Glams (those who are greying, leisured, affluent and middle-aged), or even Rappies (retired affluent professionals), but in fact, we, like all brands, are increasingly turning our attention to the Henrys.

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Nothing to do with the Hooray Henry, this term was coined by Fortune magazine and stands for ‘high earners, not rich yet’, Henrys are those on their way to affluence, but not quite there yet due to high living costs and other factors. While Henrys span both the millennial and GenY generation, it is millennial Henrys, which are of so much interest to entrepreneurs and their marketers for two simple reasons.

Firstly, their numbers: as revealed in an all-important announcement in 2015 from the U.S. Census bureau, millennials (born between 1980-2000) surpassed Baby Boomers (those born between 1946 and 1964) as the largest generation in the U.S. (where this type of research frequently seems to stem from and of interest to me because of A&K’s American offices (A&K is headquartered in both London and Downers Grove, Illinois). Plus there are many, many more of them in comparison to their parents’ generation.

Man standing in front of an ice wall

Secondly, their spending power: from now until 2040, millennials will be entering their prime spending years. They will be the key consumer segment driving the world’s economies.

The millennial generation had its biggest birth year in 1990, so using them as an example, the top 20 per cent Henrys (high earners, not rich yet) born in 1990 earn over $50,000 per annum and the top 10 per are earning more than $75,000 a year approximately. They are well on their way to affluence, and are more educated, better informed and setting the trends that other millennials will emulate.

And with millennials driving economies, as brands try to win their business, millennials will change the businesses and their offerings, thus affecting us all. They are driving what is coming to be called the ‘experience economy’, moving from consumerism towards experientialism (read more about how they are redefining luxury travel here). If you have a subscription to a streaming service and no longer purchase DVDs or boxsets for example, it’s all down to millennials and this trend. If you have noticed more travel companies urging you to experience a destination like a local or learn something on holiday, you now know who the cause is. This isn’t exactly new ground for A&K – we’ve been encouraging travellers to make horizon-broadening connections since the early 1960s – plus ça change.

Read more: Kuwait’s ASCC launches visual arts programme in Venice

Millennials and the Henrys among them are focussed on value, not price point, and interested in feeling proud of their purchases and the things they do. They are design-led, crave authenticity and want for everything they do to be climate positive (or at a bare minimum, neutral). They are the type to choose a travel brand that is philanthropic and does good in the places in which its guests travel (such as A&K). They want a curated experience, that does no harm (i.e. is socially responsible) and that is Instagrammable. They share their experiences in the same way that their parents related theirs at dinner parties.

They are searching for a connection to their communities, other cultures and the world at large. Travel is a practical way to process and respond to an increasingly complex globe.

Thanks to childhoods, lifestyles and the psychology of millennials, they are the ‘Do It For Me’ customer – exactly the type that appreciates a well-travelled and knowledgeable travel expert who will arrange their luxury holidays for them. A match made in heaven? Who knows, but it certainly was a match made sometime between 1980 and 2000.

Discover Abercrombie & Kent’s luxury travel itineraries: abercrombiekent.co.uk

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