
The Sassongher, dramatically located in the Dolomites
The season to choose is coming: head up to the mountains or down to the ocean, or both? LUX Editor-in-Chief visits hotels in offbeat Alpine locations, perfect for discovery skiing, and drops by two lesser-visited luxury destinations in the Persian Gulf
Hotel Sassongher, Corvara, Dolomites, Italy
Italian cuisine, Austrian hospitality and tradition, the most spectacular skiing circuit in the Alps and utter tranquillity. If that sounds like the perfect skiing holiday, we can attest that it probably is.
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First things first. The Hotel Sassongher sits on a ledge above a broad plateau with the resort of Corvara to the front. Behind, forested slopes rise dramatically. This is the Dolomites, one of the most unusual and beautiful areas of Europe, with mountains of sheer pillars of rock rising from forested plateaus and valleys that look like nowhere else. Corvara is one of the higher resorts at 1,570m altitude, so its cool but sunny winters preserve its snow and provide clear blue skies.

Stylish tradition in a room with a view at the Hotel Sassongher
The hotel is festooned with souvenirs of the region’s heritage. Austrian until the end of the First World War and now Italian, it feels like both of the countries and neither, traditional yet flamboyant. The cultural benefits manifest themselves at dinner: a buffet, but of the highest quality, with a variety of meat, pasta, bean and mountain dishes that suggest Austrian heartiness with Italy’s delicacy and generosity.
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Transport to the ski-lift hub, four minutes away, is always available and came rapidly when we finished skiing each day. The skiing is also special: it may lack the dramatic black runs of star French and Swiss resorts, but it has something else: the Sellaronda, a huge circuit that takes a good intermediate all day to ski, joining a series of resorts in quite separate valleys around a small board of peaks. On the clearly marked circuit, you have the feeling of visiting lots of mini-mountain cultures, rather than, say, the hyper-organised uniformity of Courchevel. There are also so many welcoming restaurants that you could have plenty of lunches, but keep temptation at bay because of what’s in store each evening at the Sassongher.

Wellness facilities at the Hotel Sassongher
This is traditional family luxury, not bling or new luxe. Rooms are reasonably big, particularly for the Alps, with traditional decor and those gorgeous views across the mountains. We also liked the bar, which lured us into Tyrolian cosiness for cocktails – no attempts to reproduce an urban bar landscape here. A very special and individual family-run hotel, offering a type of culinary, gentle comfort that cannot be reproduced.

The super-stylish ski-concierge room at the Six Senses Crans-Montana
Six Senses Crans-Montana, Switzerland
Ground-breaking super-luxury resorts such as Six Senses can be placemakers in destinations around the world. But what if the place is already made? Crans in Switzerland was an elegant place before the Asian spa-resort company came along. It might not have had the cachet of Verbier or Zermatt across the valley, but it has some of the greatest resort views in the Alps, thanks to its position on a forested shelf high above the Rhone river, skiing on an interesting and sunny mountainside, and a scattering of luxury boutiques and high-end restaurants.
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Into this already elevated environment, Six Senses arrived in 2023 with quite an impact. The resort is built into the mountainside right next to the main gondola lift up the mountain and beside the end of the main run back into the resort. As a ski-in, ski-out experience, it’s pretty special.

A deluxe terrace room at the Six Senses Crans-Montana
So is the arrival, where you are ushered into a world of Zen, encouraged to listen to the chime of a gong and quickly disappear into a world of relaxation and luxury.
It doesn’t stop there: the spa is a vast haven of some of the most holistically designed creative treatments of any spot in the world – the brand started as a pretty revolutionary spa concept. The Zen-meets-Alpine luxury ambience extends into the Swiss restaurant, Wild Cabin, which is all natural feels and plays on local ingredients: rösti with Swiss trout and spicy mayonnaise was magnificent, as was serac gnocchi with parmesan sauce. Our capacious room had plenty of blonde woods and a Scandi-Swiss-Asian chic about it, plus a freestanding bathtub lined with scented candles in a grey marble bathroom lined with weathered pine. The balcony looked out over forests and valleys. The service is at a level above anything this resort has previously experienced.

A deluxe terrace bathroom at Six Senses Crans-Montana
And if you do feel like venturing out of the hotel, clip on your skis or board to descend a few metres to the entrance of the lift station and the slopes are yours, with some of the best high mountain views in Switzerland. Skiing here is varied, unusual and characterful, although the domain does not have the reach of some of the mega resorts. That’s part of its charm. As is doing that final sharp left of the day on the run down from the top and skiing straight into the boot room, where a ski concierge will relieve you of your equipment and usher you to a lounge offering hot chocolate, mulled wine and various more exotic offerings.
Six Senses, an Asian beach luxury brand, may have not made this destination in the Alps, but it has just taken it to another level.

The Four Seasons Doha, complete with a private beach
Four Seasons Doha, Qatar
If you expected a classic Four Seasons hotel in a capital city to be more corporate than enjoyable, think again. On the Corniche in Doha (which, unlike its Lebanese and French namesakes, is just a broad boulevard, minus the mountains), the Four Seasons sits on its own private beach, next to which is a winding, shaded pool, all curves.
Our room was all relaxed Mediterranean chic – you could be forgiven for thinking you had arrived at the Four Seasons in Cap-Ferrat on the French Riviera. The detail was beautiful: blue and white carpets, dark engraved wooden doors, floor-to-ceiling windows and mirrored cabinets with inlaid mosaic – chic and luxurious without being over the top.

The sitting room of a premium one-bedroom suite at the Four Seasons Doha
Across from the beach is a bijou little yacht harbour and we strolled out there one evening to dine at the highlight of the resort – and quite possibly the highlight of Doha – sitting on the terrace of Nobu looking back at the lights of the city. Black cod yuzu miso, rock shrimp tempura and Wagyu beef spicy ponzu tacos were all delicious.
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Cuisine is a fundamental element of the Four Seasons and we enjoyed equally – almost equally – a fantastic local-style lunch in what is effectively the pool restaurant, the glass-walled Laya Café, which has a laid-back atmosphere and serves an array of meze, grills and salads. We noticed a chicken shawarma rotating on the grill as we walked in and couldn’t resist trying it – it was a revelation: full flavoured, rich, vibrant, with not a hint of oiliness and positively bursting with flavour. It was quite a way to enjoy a poolside lunch and a disincentive to eat anywhere else.

The Makani Beach Club, one of 11 dining options at the Four Seasons Doha
Another Four Seasons resort restaurant of spectacular quality is Curiosa by Jean- Georges, which occupies pride of place in the gardens by the pool. Salmon ceviche with tamarind leche de tigre, escarole and fig salad, and maitake mushrooms with goat’s cheese and Fresno pepper vinaigrette were all vibrant and perfect in the hot climate, accompanied by tangy icy margaritas from the restaurant bar.
In the evenings there was the view from our suite as the desert night closed in over the Gulf. As an urban resort, this Four Seasons, with its combination of gastronomy, beach, bars and vacation-style luxury, is among the very best in the world.

The elegant courtyard of the Rixos Premium Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi
Rixos Premium Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, UAE
Saadiyat Island is not what you expect to find in the Gulf. Rather than rows of high rises with nightclubs and celebrity-chef restaurants, it’s a nature reserve with a huge, beautiful beach, all within sight of the skyscrapers of downtown Abu Dhabi. At the heart of the beach is the Rixos resort with its completely unexpected quiet glamour.
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We stayed in a villa suite looking out from its terrace over a long, tree-covered private swimming pool. Sit on the terrace in the morning and you are surrounded by birdsong; birds and trees are everywhere here, and there are no urban sounds. A few steps away is a huge outdoor pool with integrated pool bar – again gently chic rather than over-designed Instagramability.

A Rixos breakfast at a superior villa with balcony
Next to the pool area is a dune reserve; you walk above it on a wooden boardwalk to the beach, which is so broad that from stepping onto it to stepping into the sea can be a five-minute walk. The sea itself is clear and shallow above the yellow sand, with the temptation of a Club 55-style beach bar after your swim. Dimensions are huge: as well as being deep from dune to sea, the beach is several hundred metres wide, so you can walk for kilometres past the clubs of other hotels on the strip.
Abu Dhabi takes its reputation as the food basket of the region seriously, and nowhere is this better seen than lunch, not at a flashy brand name but in the main restaurant, where mountains of sushi and sashimi, East Asian specialties, West Asian delicacies, berries, nuts, gourds and vegetables vie for your attention, constantly replenished and tasting as good as they look.

A Rixos two-bedroom suite terrace
Speaking of low-key luxury, we particularly liked the jazz band that played at night in the courtyard that leads down to the pool and the sea, a perfect place for an excellent Old Fashioned.
For something more spicy, head to the Rixos sister hotel on the main Corniche drag in Abu Dhabi. A tower with dramatic views across sea and city, it has a welter of pools, a funky bar by its own beach and a Vegas-style glamour; a totally different vibe, just 15 minutes away.
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