Following his debut runway show at the 2015 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin, William Fan has emerged as one of the most exciting new talents in the fashion world and was recently selected as this year’s winner of the prestigious Mercedes-Benz International Designer Exchange Program. Here the German designer talks to Kitty Harris about working for Alexander McQueen, fusing traditional Asian materials with contemporary design and the androgynous future of fashion.

William Fan

LUX: How did you get into fashion design?
William Fan: I started to be interested in fashion at a very young age. The moment I could walk, I was always headed towards my mum and dad’s wardrobe. I loved styling. Then I started learning to sew and created my first wardrobe pieces when I was a teenager. After my high school degree, I wanted to perfect my art, so I went to the Netherlands to start my Bachelor of Arts in Fashion Design.

LUX: What was it like working for Alexander McQueen’s couture house in London?
WF: It was a unique experience. During the time I was working there, Lee was still alive and I could observe his power in every single detail he created. I learned to be a perfectionist and to tell stories with my collections.

LUX: You merge Asian materials, like cashmere and silk, with tecnhopolysether and bast fibre creating your own Euro-Asian dynamic. How does your Asian heritage influence your designs? And can you explain your process of sourcing fabric?
WF: I travel to Hong Kong and China four times a year. I go to the local markets and get inspired by the huge offerings. You can find everything there. From standard cottons and silks to crazy 3D PVC materials. I love the clash and the play-fullness when combining different materials.

I’m proud to have Chinese origins. I like to show this in a very quiet way, by putting Asian elements into my work. I like to analyse Chinese costumes, Kung Fu uniforms and I love watching old Bruce Lee movies.

Backstage: William Fan A/W Collection 17/18

Read next: The man who turns memories into fragrances 

LUX: You were chosen as one of the designers by Mercedes-Benz’ International Designer Exchange Programme with your works debuting in Berlin in 2015. What did this achievement mean to you?
WF: I’m happy to show my work on an international platform. Mercedes Benz has been a big supporter since day one. They gave me my first runway show in Berlin in January 2015. I’m very thankful!

LUX: Your designs were used in the MB Collective video with M.I.A. at the start of 2017. How would you describe this experience?
WF: Exciting, surreal and happy. The moment I saw M.I.A. in a total WILLIAM FAN look it was truly smashing.

Backstage A/W Collection 17/18

LUX: What do you enjoy most about your work?
WF: I love to create an emotion, image and world you can dip into. My collections always tell a story and I like to see my work as a movie. Every season there is another chapter, different scene or topic. But it always connects to the last one, which is really fun to play with. And of course I love to see my garments on random people on the streets. This is the most uplifting compliment.

LUX: You seem to be an international citizen moving between Germany, London, Hong Kong… how does travelling influence the way you design?
WF: Traveling makes my work more dynamic and diverse. I like to combine opposite energies.

Read next: Marsden Hartley’s Maine at the Met Breuer, New York 

LUX: What does the term “stylish” mean to you?
WF: I don’t like that term. It feels very old fashioned.

Willam Fan A/W Collection 2017/18

LUX: Your clothes are designed to be unisex. Do you think that this is a direction fashion is moving towards?
William Fan: I think so. Take the phenomenon of sneakers. It doesn’t matter if you are a kid or grandma. Everyone is sharing a similarly styled sneaker. I think it will be the future… also in terms of ready to wear. Don’t give any borders or stamps to your clothes. If they fit and look good, who cares about the branding for women or men. I like to describe my wardrobe as ageless, universal and timeless. It’s meant to be open for everyone who wants to explore WILLIAM FAN.

LUX: What’s next for your brand?
WF: I’m trying to build up a solid base in terms of strong season-less wardrobe pieces. Those items will be sold on my online shop, which will be launching soon and I hope to grow my business internationally.

williamfan.com, mbfashionweek.com

One of Hollywood’s great mysteries, Jared Leto has spent his career defying its received wisdom that you can only fit one niche. Below the radar of gossip columnists, he flits from Oscar-winning performances and eye-catching red carpet appearances – green Gucci frock coat with candyfloss pink cropped trousers recently – to rock climbing and headlining with his rock band, Thirty Seconds to Mars. He fits the role of doe-eyed sweetheart, psychopathic killer and fashion frontrunner all in one.

Raised by his mother, Leto spent his childhood moving from city to city around America, learning to love the nomadic life. He studied cinema, moved to LA and was cast as the sensitive teenage love interest in the cult TV series, My So-Called Life. But Leto was more than a pretty face. A committed method actor, he has lived with homeless heroin junkies for the role of Harry Goldfarb in Requiem for a Dream and dramatically lost and gained weight playing the overweight killer of John Lennon, Mark David Chapman, in Chapter 27 and the transgender drug-addict, Rayon in Dallas Buyer’s Club. Winning an academy award for his work, Leto never breaks from his character on set. After years of art house, Leto recently went for blockbuster as the Joker in Suicide Squad, taking on the role left by the late Heath Ledger. All this while he has been fronting his rock band alongside his brother, with record sales in the millions. Now he has taken another turn on his alternative Hollywood path, working with Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele as the new face of Gucci Guilty. He spoke to Caroline Davies about commitment, guilt and never quite letting go of the joker.

Jared Leto in the Gucci Guilty campaign

LUX: What scents do you associate with your childhood?
Jared Leto: The smell of a campfire is always pretty powerful. It brings back certain times and adventures.

LUX: What was the first scent you wore?
JL: I think one of my grandfathers got me and my brother Old Spice and Brut soap-on-a-rope.

LUX: Acting, directing, music. Are they different parts of your personality? How do they inform one
another?
JL: It’s been challenging to make them all work. They take a lot of time, which has always been the
biggest challenge for me. How do you find the time to make room for several lovers, I suppose?

LUX: You spent much of your childhood moving around America. Has it given you a wanderlust?
JL: I would say that I like new experiences so that’s sometimes the part than can keep you travelling.

LUX: Where is your favourite place in the world? What would you do there?
JL: There are so many places around the world that I really love. The national parks in America have to be some of my favourites.

LUX: You’re known for your commitment to roles. What has been the most difficult part to play? Why?
Jared Leto: The Joker was probably one of the most difficult, that and Dallas Buyers Club. It’s just very dark and emotional. There was a physical component – I had to lose a lot of weight, so it was really challenging.

LUX: Have you ever scared yourself with a character? When?
JL: I was more concerned with the work that I needed to do in order to try and do my best.

Behind the scenes shot from the Guilty Gucci campaign by Alessandro Michele

LUX: Which character was the hardest to let go of?
JL: The Joker still visits from time to time. So be careful.

LUX: Why Gucci? Why now?
JL: Alessandro drew me to the collaboration and we had met and become friends. And so when he asked me to do it, I was so excited. I thought it would be really fun to join him in this great adventure.

Read next: Gorden Wagener on creative intelligence

LUX: Tell me about creating the footage for the Guilty campaign. You filmed in Venice in December; what was the atmosphere like?
JL: It was improvisational. It was very creative. It was a unique story of this guy and two women on an adventure, and it’s magical but it’s good. It was a lot of fun to make, and a great group of people to work with.

LUX: What do you think of when you think about guilt?
JL: Guilty is a frightful way to mean taking some chances and not always playing things safe.

LUX: How would you describe your choice of clothes?
JL: I don’t really put very much time and variation into fashion to tell you the truth. Maybe that’s a good explanation for a lot of things. I have fun with it and I’m not worried about being too safe with it because at the end of the day, it’s really not big a deal. So I just have a bit of fun with it.

A still from the Gucci Guilty campaign, filmed in Venice

LUX: Do you think that fashion can feel limiting for men?
JL: I think most men’s fashion is pretty boring, utilitarian, safe, and there is something to the
unpredictability of what Alessandro does that’s really compelling.

LUX: How do you view Hollywood?
JL: Well, I’m glad that I am where I am now. I think you sometimes have to throw a bit of caution to the wind. I have taken long breaks from acting. And that’s okay.

LUX: What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever heard about life and acting?
JL: Commitment, to commit

Rami Mekdachi has worked as a perfumer for over twenty years, collaborating with some of the world’s best known brands, such as L’Oréal, Colette, Lacoste and Chloé. And now, he’s created his own high-concept brand, Lola James Harper, bringing together his passion for music, film, design and fragrance with his friends and family. Millie Walton speaks to the Frenchman about curing perfectionism, capturing memories and bringing creativity to the hospitality industry.

Rami Mekdachi

LUX: When did you decide to master perfumery?
Rami Mekdachi: I never decided really. Encounters and opportunities make things happen in our lives. In 1996 I met Catherine Raiser, Head of CCB/L’Oréal. We decided to work together and I joined as a Perfume Developer. That same year, I met Pierre Bourdon and Benoist Lapouza, two amazing perfumers, and now two friends. That’s when I realised how grand the perfume world is. How playing with scents, images, poetry, myth and design can be powerful and generous. How wide and touching it can be…

LUX: Do you have a favourite scent?
RM: I have so many!

LUX: Have you ever struggled to capture a certain smell?
RM: Anything I do, I do it for the term. I do not struggle, I just take my time. I have 100 projects going on at the same time. I am way too much of a perfectionist and when I was 20 years old, I spent too much time on little things, struggling to get what I wanted and trying to get it as fast as possible. Now I have found the cure: 100 projects at a time, no time to lose, when it comes, it comes, when it does not come I change the project. My days are super diverse, every two hours I change fields and projects. That is my cure to perfectionism.

Read next: Marsden Hartley’s Maine at The Met Breuer 

LUX: You’ve had a very successful career as a perfumer, what led you to create Lola James Harper?
RM: For twenty five years, I have been playing music with great singers around the world and I would take pictures for music and travel magazines. Music and photography were in my blood even before perfume. My work as a perfumer was inspired by those experiences. I was lucky enough to have the chance to work with great people and big brands: Colette, Ines de le Fressange, Costes, Lacoste, Chloé, Roger Vivier, Dinh Van. Lola James Harper was a way to gather all the people I love and the three fields I enjoy: music, photography and perfumery.

LUX: Is there a central concept that ties all of your products together?
RM: Good and touching memories of places and people we love, generous and elevating mind sets.

LUX: The names of your candles suggest that their scent evokes a particular memory for their creator. Is it important that the customer realises the story behind the scent or is it more for the purpose of your inspiration?
RM: The point of it all is to share a life and moments that could be touching and evocative for everyone, to transport and make everyone dream. We are all dreaming machines. With Lola James Harper pictures, movies, music and fragrances I want to give to everyone the opportunity to feel free to dream and to do it.

Lola James Harper scented candle

LUX: How does your experience in perfumery inform your other creative pursuits? Music and film, for example?
RM: In music, film and perfumery, I have to compose ingredients together to create a new evocative world. In music I mix sounds, in perfume I mix fragrance notes, in film I mix pictures, motion pictures and sounds. Music helped me to get into the perfume field much faster in 1996, then working with amazing perfumers helped me to enhance my comprehension of a sound mix. Trying to imagine what a fragrance note evokes to people, what colour, what mind set, just opened my consciousness to what immaterial things provoke in our apprehension of the world and gave me so many clues about how to edit pictures, sounds and colours in a film. Life is a huge place to learn and now I know that when I am looking for any answer it always lies somewhere else.

Read next: Fraser sets the standard for ethical and adventurous yachting 

LUX: What’s the most difficult part of your job?
Rami Mekdachi: The logistic and legal part of it! Legislation shifts so often in the perfume world that we have to change our fragrance composition and stickers every year.

LUX: Where do you go to escape?
RM: The basket-ball court with my son. Movie theatres with my daughter. Walking the town, any town, with my wife, son and daughter. Road tripping the world, renting a car with my family and cruising for days. And when I want to be alone, I like to go to any good coffee shop with good music and tasteful coffee where I know no one.

Lola James Harper Shop in Le Bon Marché department store, Paris

LUX: What lies ahead for Lola James Harper?
RM: Lola James Harper is a magical project. It gathers my family and all my friends and my encounters for over two decades. It brings together my three fields, music, photo and perfumery. I love to see people passing by our places and just feeling happy looking at our pictures, listening to our music and testing our fragrance memories. I am really proud to have achieved all that in one successful project.

Now we are working on opening full Lola James Harper destinations, hotels! Hotels with basketball courts, music studios, TV basements, vinyl shops, coffee shops, full of travel and music pictures, full of good fragrances and our way of life. This should happen in 2018. And just for now, we are finalising our first movie, 85 minutes about the last two decades, globe-trotting the world, discovering music, pictures, friendship and family.

lolajamesharper.com

Canuck Yankee Lumberjack at Old Orchard Beach, Maine. By Marsden Hartley. Courtesy of Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden, Smithsonian Institution

American artist Marsden Hartley travelled extensively throughout his life, labelling himself “the painter of Maine“. Indeed the state’s rugged, lush landscape recurs in many forms throughout the artist’s extensive body of work, revealing a continued attachment to and dialogue with his homeland. The retrospective exhibition at The Met Breuer features 90 of Hartley’s paintings and drawings, leading the viewer on a chronological journey from sombre, dark landscapes to abstract cubist influenced figures during World War I to Cézanne-esque seaside scenes and homoerotically tinged portraits of working class men. The display pays homage to Hartley’s unique vision, creative variety and his continued significance within the American modernist movement.

Marsden Hartley’s Maine runs until 18th June 2017 on Floor 3 at The Met Breuer, New York

More and more luxury brands are pledging their commitment to protecting our planet by valuing environmental concerns as highly as their customer’s expectations. Leading the way in the luxury yachting industry, Fraser announced a partnership with Plastic Oceans Foundation earlier this year to fight the pollution of our marine environment whilst announcing new, adventurous charter destinations where their clients can experience the wonders of our natural planet first hand. As part of our luxury leaders series, Millie Walton speaks to Fraser CEO Raphael Sauleau about the evolution of the yachting industry, ethical luxury and adventures into the Antarctic.

Raphael Sauleau

LUX: How has the luxury yacht industry changed in recent years?
Raphael Sauleau: The industry has changed and developed in a number of ways; in terms of charter, clients are often leaving bookings until the last minute in the hope of getting a last minute deal, however this often leads to disappointment as their chosen yacht may already be chartered out so they have to settle for something else that is still available. In terms of sales, buyers are becoming a lot more savvy and price driven, since the financial crisis they always want to push to get the lowest possible price, however sellers are also very aware of what they’ve paid for the yacht and invested into it and now set much more realistic asking prices so there is less room for negotiation.

In terms of the yachts themselves there is now an increasing trend to be more environmentally friendly, both in terms of the materials used in the construction and to be more self-sufficient which in turn allows for longer cruising periods and particularly to reach more remote destinations. Due to developments in technology, designers are also able to create yachts that use more glass to allow more natural light in and more sophisticated doors and retracting walls that allow more indoor/outdoor spaces.

We have also seen an increasing number of small companies setting up, 1 or 2 people offering charter or brokerage services. They have low running costs and will often undercut some of the more well established companies but of course they can’t offer the same level of expertise and experience that a company like Fraser can.

Imagine. Courtesy of Fraser.

LUX: What are the expectations of the modern luxury traveller and how does that differ from the past?
Raphael Sauleau: This obviously varies by client but we have noticed an increase in people wanting to have unique experiences, create memories that they will treasure forever. Many clients no longer want to go and sit on their yacht anchored off St Tropez and visit all the local beach clubs (although this is still very popular), instead an increasing number would prefer to do something different that they haven’t done before or is done by very few people. This could be exploring a unique destination such as Antarctica or a unique cultural experience such as a Va’a, a traditional Tahitian welcome from locals on their outrigger canoe, or even just enjoying an action packed holiday in a more traditional location but with lots of adrenalin pumping toys.
In terms of service, the main difference we have noticed is the food on board, clients are a lot more health conscious and have more specific dietary requirements such as vegan, gluten-free or even raw food.

Read next: Supermodel and restauranteur, Alicia Rountree on home cooking and dressing up

LUX: How do you balance innovation and tradition?
Raphael Sauleau: We are proud of our heritage and the experience and knowledge that this represents however we are always looking for new ways to provide a better service to our clients. This could be anything from launching our new website which is more adapted to modern day browsing on mobiles, to being the first company to use Augmented Reality to promote our yachts and show potential clients what it’s really like to be on board. However innovation is not just about the latest technology, we’re also working on efforts to help the industry develop, such as improving regulations that are more suitable to yachting and protecting the marine environment so that we can be sure that the industry is protected and continues to grow for years to come.

LUX: What are the most popular charter destinations nowadays?
Raphael Sauleau: The Med and the Caribbean are still by far the most popular choices for charterers however we are seeing a steady increase in charterers wanting to explore Asia and the South Pacific as well as an interest in the Antarctic. There are some terrific cruising grounds in these regions and as yachts are being built to do more long distance cruising and be more self-sustainable these regions are becoming more and more accessible.

Hanse Explorer. Courtesy Fraser.

LUX: You’ve said before that ethics are important for Fraser, what does that mean?
Raphael Sauleau: We’re working in an industry with one of the most highly valuable products on the market today, there are very few things that can come close to the value of a superyacht. Due to the large sums of money involved and the lack of transparency in some areas of the business you occasionally hear of people who are too focused on just closing a deal, at whatever cost, or taking their own cut on services or products that are outsourced. At Fraser we pride ourselves on always putting our clients’ interests first, we want to find the best yacht for them, be it for sale or charter and we won’t push them towards something just so that we can close a deal. We also don’t take any commission on services or products ordered through our management division, the original price of the supplier is what the client will pay.

LUX: Can luxury ever be truly adventurous?
Raphael Sauleau: Absolutely, I think if you speak to anyone that has been to Antarctica or a remote South Pacific island they will say that it was one of their greatest adventures. Admittedly you might have to go ashore to experience the real adrenalin pumping encounters with some of the local wildlife but it is still an adventure to be experienced before you return back to the comforts of your luxury yacht.

Paraffin. Courtesy Fraser.

LUX: How would you define an exclusive experience?
Raphael Sauleau: An exclusive experience is one that very few people can take part in; many people would say that owning or chartering a yacht is an exclusive experience and I would have to say I would agree. However it can also be an experience that money can’t buy, a special moment that you cannot buy off the shelf. We’ve organized for clients to be whisked by helicopter to the top of a glacier where they can enjoy a private 5* lunch with the most incredible views imaginable, or another very popular activity on our charters is being taken out by a local Greek fisherman in his little fishing boat on the most pristine clear waters to catch your dinner for the evening. Whatever it is, the overriding common factor in an exclusive experience is that it will create a unique memory that you and your family or friends will treasure for a life time.

Read next: Sushi Shop brings fine dining to takeaway casual

LUX: What’s next for Fraser?
Raphael Sauleau: We’re currently working on a number of new initiative such as our partnership with Plastic Oceans, many of us (including our clients) are realising that the oceans we cruise on are becoming increasingly damaged and we want to make sure that they are protected and there for us to enjoy for years to come. As we mentioned before we’re also working on some initiatives to help make the industry more transparent and regulated, we have a vast amount of knowledge gathered over the last seventy years and we want to make sure that we lead the way for the industry to grow and develop further. And of course there are some other projects and partnerships that we’re working on which we’ll be announcing over the coming months but unfortunately I can’t say anything further at this stage.

Mystic Tide. Courtesy Fraser.

LUX: How do you relax?
Raphael Sauleau: Aside from spending time with my wife and daughters I’m a keen sportsman and regularly compete in Triathlons and Ironman competitions. Training and taking part in these endurance races is a great way for me to switch off from the every day juggling act of managing one of the world’s leading yacht brokerages. However when I want to do something a little more relaxing there’s nothing better than picking up a good book and listening to some chilled out music

fraseryachts.com

Mauritian model and restaurateur, Alicia Rountree

Sydney Lima

LUX contributing editor and Storm model, Sydney Lima continues her online exclusive series, interviewing her peers about modelling life and business.

THIS MONTH: Mauritian-born Alicia Rountree leads a hectic life doubling as both supermodel and restaurateur. Since signing to Models 1 at the age of 17, Rountree has travelled extensively shooting campaigns for the likes of L’Oréal, Victoria’s Secret and Ralph Lauren. In 2010 whilst living in New York she opened ‘The Tartinery’ with close friend Nicolas Dutko. Situated in the Nolita district, the restaurant specialises in open faced sandwiches and tartines, inspired by Alicia’s love of french cuisine and the simplicity of fresh ingredients.

Sydney Lima: How did you first get into modelling?
Alicia Rountree: I was scouted a few times as a teenager when I was in London spending summer holidays, but I was too young to get into the business. I was then scouted at 17 at a Vogue event and I was more then ready to start modelling by then.

SL: What’s been your favourite shoot to date?
AR: It was a shoot for Italian Elle, shot in Mauritius. The team loved my family so much that they added them into the story. We all have wonderful memories from that shoot.

SL:What do you love about modelling?
AR: Travel, discovering new places and cultures, meeting new people and making friends along the way. I obviously love clothes and fashion
in general so I love the dressing up part too!

SL: What do you hate about modelling?
AR: It can be very lonely sometimes. Always packing and unpacking your suitcase. It is sometimes quite hard on your body shooting for long hours and travelling non stop.

SL: What inspired you to open your own restaurant?
AR: A restaurant like Tartinery did not exist in New York. We found that there was a place missing where you can meet up and have fresh local food, easy to share in an industrial-chic environment with nice music.

Read next: Copenhagen’s youth on why their city is the greatest

Sydney Lima: Where did you love of French cuisine come from?
Alicia Rountree: I went to Paris a lot as a child and have so many memories eating at French cafes. French people have a love of food that is different to anywhere else. Also they don’t care about eating carbs, they love a good fresh baguette or croissant!

SL: Did you get involved with much of the interior design and aesthetic of the restaurant?
AR: Yes it was important to have the place be charming and sophisticated. I remember even painting the chairs myself to get them done the right way.

SL: What inspires you on a daily basis?
AR: Being grateful. I know that I am very lucky to have the life I do and I never take anything for granted. I love my family and friends and make sure that they know it.

SL: Do you have a role model within the industry?
AR: Not really. I like people who stand for their own beliefs and are strong. But I don’t really have a role model.

SL: How do you rate your cooking skills?
AR: I am a good cook. I get it from my mum. But I don’t really have the time to cook much. Only in Mauritius with all the family, then it’s so much fun to cook for everyone.

SL: What would be your signature dish?
AR: Avocado toast! Can you call it a dish? I do many delicious variations.

SL: What plans do you have for 2017?
AR: Learn more and share my knowledge with whoever wants to listen.

The colourful buildings of Nyhavn

A young writer’s view on why Copenhagen makes such an impression; and her pick of six hip young Danes, talking about why their capital is the best city in the world. And, no, it’s not about the hygge

By Ella Johnson

Copenhagen is fast becoming the coolest Scandinavian kid on the block. A fashion hub and destination of culinary excellence, Denmark’s capital is making waves around the world. And at the centre of it all? Its youth.

Copenhagen has an undeniable sense of vitality; it is a place where young people can challenge ideals and rewrite the rules. And what’s more, everyone appears to be tall, slim and stylish. Yet their mutual winning of the genetic lottery is the only thing these natives share in common. Each person dresses exquisitely and uniquely, oozing an innate personal style. Earthy hues keep these otherworldly urbanites grounded, whilst androgynous silhouettes nod towards a progressive society. And what’s refreshing is that none can be seen tottering on sky-high stilettos or wielding impractical handbags – the Danes dress for themselves and comfort is key. (Hint: if it can’t be worn on a bicycle, don’t wear it.)

So what’s the driving force behind this unrivalled style and nonchalance? You would probably guess hygge, and you may be right, although this overused term doesn’t even begin to get there. My concept of hygge is much more than ‘cosiness’ and woolly jumpers – it underpins culture as a whole. Egalitarian by nature, Danish society is people-oriented. It has nurtured its youth and they are thriving; Copenhagen is full of inventive young people simply living in the moment. Whilst navigating the bustling streets no-one can be seen brusquely pushing through the crowds, urgently trying to get somewhere else. It has been said that the journey is as important as the destination, and in no other place has this phrase rung so true. The Copenhagen kids are the ones to watch. Don’t just take my word for it – they’re here to prove it.

Mathilde Topsøe

Mathlide Topsøe

Mathilde is a 21-year-old student at Copenhagen Business School and has been working as a model part time for 5 years.

Describe your generation.

The youth are characterised by their passion for whatever interests them.

What makes Copenhagen special?

Somehow, the city has managed to stay very local – the atmosphere here is really something. The different neighborhoods [Nørrebro, Central Copenhagen, Vesterbro and Frederiksberg] all contribute something unique, making the city fit for everyone. Copenhagen tends to steal people’s hearts – it has mine, anyway!

Where are your favourite places to go?

If you ever find yourself in Copenhagen, take a walk to St. Ann’s place, have a coffee at Union Kitchen and then walk to the Amalienborg Castle. In the summer hang out at Ofelia Beach with music, street food shops and ice cream. The Meatpacking District [Kødbyen] is also a cool area with lots of great restaurants. My favorite is Gorilla, which serves new Nordic food in small portions so that you can share and taste a little bit of everything.

Where do young people go out?

Chateau Motel and Arch are the best clubs in town, while Balthazar and Ruby’s make great cocktails. My favourite wine bar is Nebbiolo, where you can share a platter of Italian specialties with a good bottle of wine.

Are you a typical Copenhagener? 

I’m terrible at using my bicycle, which is very atypical! But I feel like a real Copenhagener on Sundays when all the shops are closed. The city is very quiet and all the people walking the streets are locals. That’s when I feel truly local.

Levino Tvarnø

21-year-old Levino lives on Amager, an island that forms part of the city, and works as a pub manager. He has always lived in Copenhagen and insists he will never leave.

Levino Tvarnø

What’s the best thing about Copenhagen?

The rugged beauty in its architecture. My favourite building is Vor Frelsers Kirke [a baroque church, famous for its helix spire with extensive views over the city centre] – I think of it as the Danish Eiffel Tower!

Where do young people like to hang out?

A lot of young people go out at the weekend to Christiania. It’s a free state in Copenhagen – organised crime at its best!

How important is fashion to Copenhageners?

It’s quite common not to care about fashion in Denmark – sometimes it’s cooler not to.

Denmark was voted number one in the World Happiness Report for the third time last year. Do you agree with this?

I don’t personally see us as very happy people. I’d say the Danish are quite cynical! No one talks to each other on the bus or at the supermarket – people conversation. But there’s no doubt I’ve had awesome experiences with strangers. If we got voted the happiest nation, I’m not complaining!

Karla Bak

Karla is 15 years old and attends a boarding school in Oure.

Karla Bak

What’s the best thing about Copenhagen?

The people. It’s a city that never sleeps! No matter what the time is, you’ll always see someone walking down the street.

Where do you hang out with your friends?

We like to be in the middle of everything – you’ll often find us at a café in the centre of Copenhagen on a street called Læderstræde. My absolute favourite is Café Zirup.

How would you describe your generation?

The Danish teenagers are quite wild. Our society is very relaxed – we can buy weak alcohol from 16, but we start drinking even earlier. We’re known as the teenagers who drink the most in Europe.

Do you think it’s a good thing that you can access alcohol from such a young age?

I do. Most teenagers here are very independent. We’ve grown up learning how to take care of ourselves.

What influences the way you dress?

I don’t care what people think of me. I dress to look good and to be the best version of myself, but if someone has a negative opinion about my clothes or me in general, I couldn’t care less.

What are your hopes for the future?

I’d really like to work with people – maybe those with social issues. My mother died a few months ago and she worked with a lot of different people in her life – prostitutes and drug-addicts, for example.

Celine Nyegaard

Celine is an 18-year-old student who lives in Vesterbrø. She has recently set up her own company, Valencia, selling T-shirts and hoodies using her own prints.

What inspired you to start your business?

I’ve always been a creative soul and couldn’t find a job in Copenhagen. I wanted to make some money and then I got the idea – there’s definitely a gap in the market for cool, simple t-shirts that aren’t as expensive as the big brands.

Celine Nyegaard

Is Copenhagen good for fashion?

In recent years it has definitely become more of a fashion hub. Fashion houses are popping up everywhere and there’s a great range of shops.

Where can you find the best food?

We have a market called Torvehallerne, which is like a big food court, where you can get all kinds of food. In Vesterbrøthere’s the Meatpacking District with great restaurants, too.

What’s your favourite thing about Copenhagen?

Whenever I walk through the centre, I almost always meet someone I know. It’s such a small place, but there are so many opportunities.

Anton Thiemke

Anton is 19 years old and in his final year at high school. He lives in central Copenhagen and works in a coffee shop, Henckell, in his spare time.

Anton Thiemke

What’s the most striking thing about Copenhagen?

Definitely the youth culture. I don’t know how to explain it. Creativity is a big thing for young people here; you can drop out of school and go study whatever you want for free. There are so many opportunities.

Is fashion important to you?

Of course! It’s very important to Copenhagen kids. There has to be some distinction in what you’re wearing here.  You have to wear what you think is cool – but not just because some cool rapper wears it. That’s what’s great about the people around me – they don’t care what other people wear. Young people are very creative.

Where do you and your friends hang out?

We spend a lot of time at nightclubs. One of my friends is opening a one right next to where I live, so I’m going to be there a lot!

Randi Mølmark

Randi Mølmark is 24 years old and hopes to study Film and Media Science at the University of Copenhagen.

Randi Mølmark, trave

What makes Copenhagen a great place?

I love that it has both modern and mid-19th Century elements. With great artists like Hans Christian Andersen and film director Carl Theodor Dreyer, it’s definitely an inspiring place.

Are you a typical Copenhagener? Do you ride a bike?

Do I ride a bike?! It’s like asking someone if they breathe! A bike is a necessity in Copenhagen.

How would you describe your generation?

We’re very relaxed about a lot of things.  Creativity is huge for us – we get a lot of support from our society, especially when it comes to art, which allows us to just follow our dreams.

Where do you and your friends go out in Copenhagen?

Everything closes at 5am when it comes to partying so young people are out all night! My favourite bar is McJoy’sChoice [on the Nyhavn waterfront] with good beer and great people. If you want an amazing hot dog just go to the local stands all over Copenhagen. But the best place is Tivoli. It’s a magical park in the middle of the city with rides and food, and in the evening it’s just beautiful.

LUX will be back to report more in-depth on the Copenhagen scene very soon, so watch this space.

Sushi Shop is a ground-breaking global sushi chain, combining takeaway casual, fine-dining quality, experimental cuisine, and collaborations with some of the world’s greatest chefs. Kitty Harris floats between branches in London and Paris to discover more

Salmon Gravlax Roll

Grégory Marciano has brought gastronomic sushi collaborations to the Paris dining scene. His Sushi Shops, 36 in Paris and more than 130 in total around the world, combine a chilled-out takeaway twist alongside annual partnerships with some of the greatest chefs in the world.

Unsurprisingly, at their core is a blend of French gastronomic culture and Japanese heritage. Being a regular at his London, Marylebone store (kumquat and yuzu sunny roll and detox poke bowl, please) I jumped on the Eurostar to try the latest creations of Kei Kobayashi, this year’s collaborator, in the 8th Arrondissement of Paris. I started with the Salmon Gravlax roll, a reinterpretation of Kei’s signature dish, with turnips, carrots and mint with a spicy tapenade-style sauce. Followed by the Gyu special roll, on top of which the beef carpaccio was blow torched twice to lacquer the teriyaki sauce.

Kei Kobayashi

Kobayashi is one of a number of celebrated chefs who had worked with Sushi Shop. Others include Joël Robuchon, the most Michelin-starred chef in the world; Jean-François Piège, of the two Michelin star ‘Le Grand Restaurant’ in Paris was followed by Thierry Marx of ‘Sur Mesure’, the two-Michelin starred restaurant at Mandarin Oriental, Paris.

Japanese-born Kobayashi has just received his second star at his French restaurant ‘Kei’ in Rue Coq Héron in Paris. He trained with Piège, the legendary Alain Ducasse, and Christophe Moret of the Shangri-La Hotel, Paris. “My inspiration comes from the products. Each product is unique and the ways to cook them are infinite. Especially vegetables…I couldn’t live without vegetables.” His Sushi Shop creations, the garden maki and red miso cucumber salad with peanuts, maple syrup, chilli and yuzu zest are testament to this.

Back in London, Marciano tells me that the plan is for high-end sushi collaborations to take over the world. Currently in more than 130 locations from New York to Madrid, he is well on his way, with Amsterdam and Zurich opening this year. A true raw revolution.

mysushishop.co.uk

New York interior designer Ryan Korban has designed retail spaces for  the biggest names in fashion – most recently the Aquazzura‘s opulent flagship on Madison Avenue – and counts Nicole Richie and Behati Prinsloo amongst his best friends, but it’s his uniquely luxe aesthetic that’s got people talking. Combining old world romance with urban seduction, Korban creates atmospheric and alluring worlds. It’s no wonder his name appears on the prestigious AD100 list as one of the design world’s best young talents for 2017. As part of our luxury leaders series, Nathalie Breitschwerdt speaks to Ryan Korban about his design philosophy, the relationship between fashion and interior design and his “must have” luxury.

Ryan Korban

LUX: Given your background is not in interior design, was it difficult to break through barriers to make your mark?
Ryan Korban: I truly believe good taste can help you start any creative career. When I began to study European history in school as well as art, I realised I loved the idea of creating an environment. In a city like New York, confidence and professionalism are everything. Any sign of weakness and you’re finished, so I try to stay strong through the whole thing. It’s important to just keep moving forward. I am always looking for the next thing and not relishing in the moment.

LUX: How would you define your own interior design aesthetic? What makes it unique?
Ryan Korban: I think it’s critical to have a very clear aesthetic because there are so many designers and it’s easy to get lost. The three critical elements in my style are sex, romance, and fantasy. It’s hard to say which one of them is most important, because I really do think it’s the combination of them that creates something alluring and beautiful.

The Alexander Wang flagship store by Ryan Korban

LUX: You describe your philosophy as “more is more”. When does more become too much?
Ryan Korban: There are times when I’ve tried “more is more” and that never feels as successful or well thought-out. If the room is a fifty-fifty split between contemporary and traditional furniture, I find that confusing – it’s like your taste is split in half. For me, a beautiful, contemporary room with antiques sprinkled throughout is just enough of both worlds. That’s when I get the most positive feedback.

Read next: LUX’s hotel of the month – The Ritz Carlton Hong Kong

LUX:Which project did you find most challenging and why?
Ryan Korban: When you work with people who have their own ‘taste,’ it is always a collaboration, which is always a challenging thing. You want to be sure you push your client so they will listen to you, but you always have to be sure their voice is heard as well. It can be a very tricky balance. This is the exact reason I often prefer working on commercial spaces. It tends to be more straightforward when you are working with a company versus a private client.

Tribeca Residence by Ryan Korban

LUX: How do you define luxury within your brand? Is it exclusivity, a trend, the price?
Ryan Korban: For me, luxury is the idea of taking luxurious things and using them in your day-to-day life. It’s something that we saw happen in fashion, and I don’t think it’s necessarily something that has happened in design yet, which is what’s so alluring about it.

LUX: You designed retail stores for various fashion labels, how would you describe the relationship between fashion and interior design?
Ryan Korban: I think of interior design and fashion as a kind of art form. It’s all abstract for me; it’s all about a feeling or a mood. A client might want a living room that’s comfortable but also a little sexy. So you want furniture that you can fling yourself on – fur and carpeting.

The new Aquazzura flagship on Madison Avenue

Read next: How to chill in style on the slopes 

LUX: Which piece of furniture / decoration is an absolute luxury “must-have” for each household?
Ryan Korban: I think what you want to do in any space is create a sense of drama. I’m a huge believer in lighting. I think it’s another easy way to transform a space, and I don’t think you can have too much lighting, especially in New York City or any metropolitan setting.

LUX: What do you have planned for the future?
Ryan Korban: I have been really focused on residential right now and have some amazing projects completing in the spring.

ryankorban.com