A remote mountainside, above a forest, above an ancient glacial valley, may not be the place you expect to discover one of the most searingly rustic-chic restaurants in the world. But that is exactly what Chez Vrony, above Zermatt in Switzerland, is.
Park your skis (in winter and spring; you can also hike there in summer), wander on to the terrace and gape at the view across the forested mountains to the Matterhorn, staring down at you like an apparition from another planet. If you are lucky, you may be given one of the edge-of-the-terrace seats where you rest your feet on a wooden deck and look straight out at the mesmerising view.
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Chez Vrony is all about the vibe – Ibiza chill tunes filter out over the terrace and the surprisingly extensive chalet interior, where several parties can and do happen at once. But the food is also a showcase, and utterly appropriate.
We loved our sharing starer of Findeln beef – from cows that had grazed in the pasture of the tiny mountainside hamlet where Vrony is located – with cranberry vinaigrette, pine nuts and salad leaves from the mountain garden – so vibrant.
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A spicy fish soup with coriander and basil positively throbbed on the palate, but the standout was the signature Spaghetti Cervino (Cervino being the Italian name of the Matterhorn), grainy, mouthfeeling pasta with a braised tomato sauce, topped with spicy local salami.
All the while, accompanied by endless glasses of Franciacorta, the rich sparkling wine of northern Italy (just across the Matterhorn from our terrace), the music, and that ever-evolving but eternal view. One of the world’s most memorable dining experiences, for all the right reasons.
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