Locke am Platz combines Riviera style with modernism

LUX visits a surprising and refreshing new addition to the Zurich hotel and dining scene

We have always found Zürich one of the more positively surprising cities in Europe to visit. It has a reputation as a serious, bank-ish type of place, but it is also an ancient middle European city with a quite gorgeous old town, situated on a huge lake surrounded by forests and mountains.

The hotel is minutes from the city centre,  with the boutiques of the Bahnhofstrasse and the lake in easy reach

 

Attractive enough, but even more interesting is, if not quite a subculture, then a contemporary art and design culture that counteracts the old-fashioned chic image that the city has.
And so it was very refreshing to check into the Locke, which is situated on a pretty square just outside the town centre, a 10 minute walk to the banks and shops of the Bahnhofstrasse. No formal suited doorman glaring it to you as you come in here in your jeans and T-shirt (if that is how you choose to dress). Instead, a jeans and T-shirt wearing receptionist with a friendly smile against a soundtrack of (when I arrived) The Clash. Refreshing.

The restaurant Choupette, downstairs in the hotel, is shaped and inspired by traditional brasserie cuisine, head chef Jaco Redelinghuys creates modern dishes with a twist. to a cool soundtrack

The check process was both efficiently Swiss and jolly in a contemporary way and soon we were in our top floor suite, all 20th century modern in design with a little kitchenette and a balcony terrace with tables and chairs looking out over the rest of this residential area – perfect for making you feel like a local, rather than someone on a business trip.
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The Locke has made waves with its restaurant/bar Choupette on the ground floor, so we soon descended and were whisked to a into a vibey space which was pleasingly contemporary in its simplicity.
Just as impressive as the well sourced and well executed food was the wine list, which has been imaginatively and intelligently curated away from the good but repetitive classics you can expect in a solid European four star hotel, and over instead to something little more fun.

Time travellers from the 1970s and 80s would feel right at home with the decor

We particularly enjoyed a refreshing and bright alternative to rosé champagne from the deep Rhine Valley in eastern Switzerland which produces some excellent hard to get wines.
Bravo for this curation, and also the curation of music, as the positive creativity found at Reception continued in the restaurant with tunes from the likes of Joy Division, Aztec Camera and others keeping us company during dinner.
Our room was quiet and went well insulated from light, and altogether it’s a place we would return to business trip – and, if we came on a Friday night, for an impromptu party at Choupette.
Find out more: www.lockeliving.com
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hotel mandarin
hotel mandarin

The Mandarin Oriental is in the beating banking heart in the old town of Zurich

Zurich has seen the transformation of one of its oldest hotels into a gem in the historic heart of the city

For those unacquainted with Switzerland’s largest city, a visit to Zurich always comes as a positive surprise. You may expect banks and pharmaceutical company HQs in a clinical row; instead you get a bijou medieval old town on the banks of a river filled with swans and storks, a dramatic lakeside waterfront with a view of the Alps, and plenty of olde-Europe atmosphere.

The spiritual centre of the town is the Paradeplatz, the point, a few hundred metres from the lake, where the chic Bahnhofstrasse luxury shopping street meets the edge of the old town, amid some serious-looking private banks housed in historic buildings and trams coming and going (cars are banned from this part of town). And now, for the first time in decades, the Paradeplatz has a hotel to match its stature as the world’s centre of discreet wealth management.

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The Savoy has been on the Paradeplatz for generations; it was one of Switzerland’s original luxury hotels, but until recently had slipped off the pinnacle of hotelerie and was a rather uninspiring and old-fashioned five star hostelry. Now, following a magic wand by the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group, it is the talk of the town.

The LUX lodgings certainly deserved to be making waves. After walking in and being recognised by the staff without saying our name (always impressive, even if pretty easy with a quick online search), we were whisked upstairs to a corner suite, beautifully and elaborately decorated, with a view over the little square and the streets around. Decor was fresh, light and airy, with thick light taupe carpets and some beautiful marquetry.

balkon

Guest can enjoy their morning coffee on their balcony overlooking the famous Paradeplatz

Read more: Visiting Ferrari Trento: The sparkling wine of Formula 1

One of the fascinating questions about the hotel was: how do you meld old Switzerland (the Savoy) with Mandarin Oriental, a luxury brand with its roots in East Asia? While there were hints and accents of contemporary Hong Kong in the design cues, this was, pleasingly, not an attempt to insert one culture inside the other.

Dinner the first night was at the Savoy Brasserie & Bar,  blending just a hint of Swiss formality (white coats for the wait staff) with an ease of spirit and sense of life. Oysters were a feature here – to go with an art deco theme – and we particularly enjoyed a main of monkfish escabeche, with bell pepper and crispy rice chips.

mandarin

Guests can have drinks and light bites in the Mandarin lounge

The culinary highlight was the next evening; Orsini is technically in the adjacent Orsini building from the 14th century,, but to reach it you stroll around the side of the building, with a historic church reminding you of where you are, and into a narrow entrance opening out into a bijou dining room. Our fellow diners included two highly wealthy finance people of international origin, quietly celebrating a deal, a couple celebrating an anniversary, and another finance person quietly making his next billion on his iPad.

The cuisine was as rarefied as the atmosphere. Artichoke with “cacio e Pepe” milk, grapefruit and Mazara red prawn tartare; potato gnocchi with grilled eel, “Giulio Ferrari” Spumante sauce (that’s a top Italian sparkling wine), fava beans and caviar; both were outstanding in their subtlety. Bravo to Mandarin Oriental for running two such brilliant but contrasting restaurants under the same roof

food

There are two superb dining options in the hotel: The casual Savoy Brasserie & Bar and the intimatefine dining restaurant Orsini

Those would have been the hotel’s public space pieces de resistance, but while LUX was staying there, the MO opened its rooftop bar. And we learned something quite spectacular about Zurich rooftops. Even if the building is not very high – the MO is just one storey higher than its neighbours – they can make for astonishing views, because as soon as you rise above the buildings around you, you are greeted not just by a view of the city’s churches and other landmarks, but the sweep of the Alps and lake on one side, and dramatic forested hills on the other. A few floors and you are in another world. So the MO is not just the most chi-chi spot in town, but one of the vibeiest also.

This is a boutique MO, not a grand one, but the company has over the years shown it can do old-world boutique (Munich) just as well as it does new and palatial (New York), the sign of a hotel brand immensely comfortable in its own skin and flexible enough not just to move with the times and spaces it operates in, but lead with them.

www.mandarinoriental.com/de/zurich/savoy/

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