The view of the Villa Clair Soleil makes you feel like a guest at a private villa, rather than a Four Seasons Grand Hotel

Is it a private villa or Grand Hotel? An editor at LUX tells us why the Four Seasons Grand Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat should be the first stop on your Grand Tour itinerary

The Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, one of the world’s most celebrated hotels, is not really grand at all. Not in the sense of being huge and generic. Although it’s deceptive. Viewed from your yacht, this white cruise ship-shaped edifice at the tip of the headland containing the most exclusive real estate in Europe, if not the world, seems to have “grand” written all over it.

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But when you arrive, you are let through a guarded gate and up a drive more akin to that of a private villa. The feeling continues if, as we did, you decide on a game of tennis after checking in. Here you might expect an array of tennis courts of various surfaces, and a tennis school, perhaps. Instead, you get one exquisite tennis court in the gardens, surrounded by flowerbeds and trees, with a backdrop of the hotel and that Mediterranean sky. Very private house. And we saw almost nobody else using it; once there was a solitary local teenage girl finishing a lesson with the hotel’s resident tennis coach, who looked like he had been there for decades.

The breathtaking sea view from the Pool Suite

The hotel’s legendary swimming coach, Pierre Gruneberg, meanwhile, really was at the hotel for decades before passing away last year aged 92. Among the guests he counted as his pupils were Charlie Chaplin, Somerset Maugham, Aristotle Onassis, Tina Turner, Brigitte Bardot, David Niven, Elizabeth Taylor, Bono – and LUX’s Editor-in-Chief. The pool is at the tip of the peninsula, beyond the main gardens, where the rocks drop to the sea. It is accompanied by the Club Dauphin restaurant, where we sipped on some sparkling Provence rosé (delicious in a dry, low-dosage way), while watching putative celebrities and honeymooners dunk themselves in the celebrated pool.

Read more: The best of the old and new: Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo

The palace nature of the hotel is evident in the lobby, with its Art Deco marble floors and walls. So perhaps it is a palace, but it always feels like a private one, for just you and your friends. That extends to the bedrooms: our suite looked over the lawns and flowerbeds to the sea. It felt as if a butler would knock on the door and tell us the house party was beginning at any moment. Although there were no house parties while we were there, this is a hotel with one of the most famous terraces in the world, overlooking the lawns and overhung by jasmine and bougainvillea.

The Terrasse Palace Sea View Suite at the Four Seasons Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat

With a jazz band playing in the gardens, dinner at the Michelin-starred Le Cap was magical, the cuisine as vibrant and elegant as the place: razor clams and cockles au naturel with fresh seaweed, citrus fruits and fennel bavaroise was a dish for the ages. A delicious hotel and an experience unrepeatable anywhere else in the world.

fourseasons.com/capferrat

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a pink diving board, a pool, parasols and deckchairs
a pink diving board, a pool, parasols and deckchairs
There may be more exclusive places on the islands near Cannes and in the bays around St Tropez and Capri, but summer isn’t summer without a little fix at the Monte Carlo Beach Club

If you are planning on visiting the French Riviera this summer and haven’t haven’t managed to book yourself a super prime villa or a suite at one of the luxury hotels, never fear. The Riviera is made or broken by your daytime waterside experiences and for that there is no place better than the newly refreshed Monte Carlo Beach Club.

Grey and wooden umbrellas and deckchairs on a beach

Ostensibly a part of the adjoining Monte Carlo Beach hotel, which sits on a rock overlooking the bay, the town and the mountains beyond, this huge complex combining an outdoor Olympic swimming pool, extensive terrace areas and cabanas, watersports and restaurants is open to any guests staying at the prestigious hotels owned by the Societé des Bains de Mer which runs most of the hospitality in Monte Carlo.

white umbrellas tables and chairs on a terrace overlooking the sea

But a little-known secret is that this social hub of the area is also open to all comers who book in advance and pay a daily fee. At €170 per person it’s a fraction of what you would pay for staying in a hotel nearby.

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So what do you get? A recent visit showed the facilities to be among the best, if not the best, of the entire Riviera. As well as the huge pool, with a separate lane for swimmers doing lengths, and two diving boards, vigilantly policed by lifeguards, there are lounges all around the pool and, more exclusively, cabanas on the lower terrace between the pool and the sea. You can also go parasailing, jet skiing or waterskiing and give yourself a booster of Domaine Ott rosé along with a tuna salad at the Terrace restaurant.

An orange building with a green tree in front of it

All of which makes for an excellent day or three out. But that’s not the whole story. When we have meetings with Monaco residents in summer, they tend to be at the beach club. Either on the terrace restaurant, or in the cabanas themselves. People-watching should be done subtly here so it doesn’t mark you out as a tourist.

Read more: Chef Ángel León: Ocean Sustainability Supremo

And please, no taking pictures of celebrity billionaires. But they are there, either chilling out for a day’s rest from the yacht, or taking a few hours out between meetings at the office, or simply on a day out with their family because their boat doesn’t have a swimming pool quite as big as this – nowhere else in the region does.

Grey and wooden umbrellas and deckchairs on a beach

The flipside is that, if you already know people down here, this is not the place to go unless you want to see and be seen. We were accosted four times by friends and business contacts and invited to various combinations of lunch, drinks and boat outings, when all we were trying to do was take advantage of the sports facilities and get some proper exercise. But whether you use it as a social or leisure destination, there’s nothing quite like it.

Find out more: montecarlosbm.com/monte-carlo-beach-club

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Vintage aesthetic of a Riva boat with Lia Riva on board
Vintage aesthetic of a Riva boat with Lia Riva on board

Ms. Lia Riva on a Riva Aquarama

The sleek, Mahogany retro-glamour of Riva boats sings of the Riviera’s Golden Era. The Riva family began making boats in Italy’s Sarnico back in 1842, but it is the founder Pietro Riva’s great grandson, Carlo Riva, who transformed the company. Carlo’s boats were designed for pure pleasure, and owned by the likes of Brigitte Bardot, Sophia Loren and Prince Rainier III.

Fresh from this year’s Riva Trophy in the South of France, Associate Editor Kitty Harris spoke to Carlo’s daughter, Lia Riva, the president of the Monaco Boat Service (sole importer of Riva boats in Monaco and France) about her most magical memory on a Riva, her dream cruise and the future of the company.

1. If you could re-live one memory on a Riva boat what would it be?

I would love to relive a particular memory with my parents aboard an Aquarama where we passed through the Corinth Canal.  The canal connects the Ioanian and Aegean sea, cutting through the narrow Isthmus of Corinth that separates the Peloponnese from the Greek Mainland.  It is such a narrow passing carved out of sheer rock on each side.  It was truly a special adventure.

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2. Who would you invite on a dream cruise?

A dream cruise would include all my family, children and grandchildren.  That would be quite something!

Vintage image of Carlo Riva pictured with Claudia Schiffer onboard a speed boat

Carlo Riva & Claudia Schiffer on a Riva in Monaco, 1986

3. Where’s your paradise?

Paradise on a Riva would be Greece, Corsica or Sardinia. Such special places.  If we are talking philosophically, I think paradise is a state of mind.  It’s important to be thankful for what is in front of you.  To try and appreciate where you are in the moment.

4. What keeps you awake at night?

I prefer not to think about this!

Read more: Inside the newly refurbished Wentworth Club

5. When you’re not out at sea, how do you like to spend your free time?

Art is my absolute passion.  I spend my free time at galleries, museums and art fairs.  Of course time at home is always a wonderful luxury. Free time at the pool with my friends and family is something I very much relish.

Speed boats travelling across the ocean with white spray spitting out behind them and the coast in the background

Riva boats speeding across the Med at the Riva Trophy 2018. Photo ©R Rastrelli / Blue Passion

6. Where do you see Riva in 50 years’ time?

Still based in Italy, still being enjoyed and discovered by new generations of families, friends and individuals around the world.

Discover Riva’s yachts at riva-mbs.com

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