View of Santa Maria della Salute from a Terrace Grand Canal Suite

At the centre of Venice, looking over the canal and Santa Maria della Salute, there could not be a better place to stay on the final leg of your Grand Tour. A LUX editor recounts the ancient art, gondolas, and Bellinis of his recent stay at the Venetian-style palace of St Regis Hotel

As we settled down in the boat with a glass of Prosecco each, the outlying islands and churches of Venice started to waft past us. Then the landmarks start coming into view. For the last few minutes of the airport transfer, the boat slid through the little canals in the centre of the city and then emerged to drift past St Mark’s Square and the Doges’ Palace. Soon afterwards, we moored in front of a grand building and disembarked next to a terrace on the Grand Canal dotted with glamorous couples sipping Bellinis.

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Welcome to the St Regis Venice. Perhaps less known than some of its neighbours, it has the most spectacular arrival imaginable. And it goes on from there. Down the marble corridor we walked, through art-filled rooms that make the hotel a contemporary-art museum in itself – we particularly liked the whimsical works by Austrian sculptor Erwin Wurm. This is a place you could linger in without feeling the need to see any of the other artistic treasures around the city (although that would be a shame).

The Monet Suite, with its Grand Canal view

Our suite looked out over the Grand Canal and across to the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute opposite, at the point at which the neighbouring island falls away into the lagoon. We could watch gondolas float along as well as the boats carrying out the daily business of Venice – tourism and sightseeing and deliveries. To the right, the Grand Canal curved away.

Read more: The intimate grandeur of the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat

Even more immersive than our suite (which also featured a cocktail bar full of ingredients prepared in-house for us to pair with the supplied organic Prosecco) was the hotel’s breakfast terrace. Here you sit outside, centimetres from the water, having selected from a buffet adorned with fruits and very precisely cooked local specialities, and try to resist a first Bellini of the day, as the Venice world passes by on the water.

A seat at the luxury St Regis Bar

St Regis may be known for its palatial luxury hotels elsewhere in the world, but this is a Venetian-style palace, a bijou incorporation of ancient buildings fused with stunning contemporary art and design in the best location in Venice. We would not stay anywhere else.

marriott.com/en-us/hotels/vcexr-the-st-regis-venice

The Belle Époque exterior of the Hermitage, Monte Carlo

From the Monaco F1, to small dogs and a tycoon-worthy breakfast, Darius Sanai recounts his stay at the ultra-luxury Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo, Monaco.

From our balcony at the Hermitage, we had one of the most satisfyingly iconic views in the world. The sweep of Monte-Carlo’s harbour, with the Norman Foster-designed Yacht Club to the left, yachts moored in peace in the middle, the royal palace to the right and, above it all, the mountainsides of the Alpes-Maritimes. You could trace the route of the Monaco F1 race with your finger, from right to left and back again in a loop.

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The Hermitage is perched on a rock, as most of Monaco’s institutions are, just across from Casino Square. You walk in through a sweep of ladies with extremely small designer dogs eating even smaller cakes, down a marble corridor and, interestingly, down a grand staircase (or lift) to your room, which is when you realise the Belle Époque-era hotel was carved into a rock face.

The Café de Paris restaurant bar

Another marble corridor leads to the spa and pool at the Thermes Marins, where we dodged the same ladies, now sans-chiens, doing their daily laps in the big, oval, indoor saltwater pool. The terrace outside is sufficiently sheltered to allow sunbathing year all round in this sunniest corner of the French Riviera (technically, of course, Monaco is its own country, but in practice it’s a node in the wealth hub of the Riviera). Very relaxing.

Read more: The intimate grandeur of the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat

Even more relaxing was chilling on the rooftop terrace during a breakfast rich enough for any tycoon. Here you can pick from Chinese, Arabic or European specialities – and order from an eye-watering array of health dishes, essential for your longevity, which is a key topic for any Monaco resident – no point in having all that wealth if you don’t live in good health long enough to enjoy it. A lazy day could consist of moving from enjoying the morning sun at the breakfast terrace, to a swim, to enjoying the evening sun on your massive balcony along with some champagne from room service.

The view of the sea from the Hermitage terrace

Then you could head across the road, dodging the procession of Ferraris and Lamborghinis, for a light supper at Taera, in the neighbouring Hôtel de Paris. This is a funky, artful pop-up serving light and bright dishes like our delicious marinated seafood with coconut milk, coriander and cucumber. After Taera, we headed back to the Hermitage for a drink in the piano bar, a marvellous contrast of old-world formality – all dark colours, soft lighting and a chap having a drink with his niece on the banquette opposite. The Hermitage is this combination of old and new, the best of Monte-Carlo, and an experience and a vacation in itself.

lartisien.com/hotel/hotel-hermitage-monte-carlo

The view of the Villa Clair Soleil makes you feel like a guest at a private villa, rather than a Four Seasons Grand Hotel

Is it a private villa or Grand Hotel? An editor at LUX tells us why the Four Seasons Grand Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat should be the first stop on your Grand Tour itinerary

The Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, one of the world’s most celebrated hotels, is not really grand at all. Not in the sense of being huge and generic. Although it’s deceptive. Viewed from your yacht, this white cruise ship-shaped edifice at the tip of the headland containing the most exclusive real estate in Europe, if not the world, seems to have “grand” written all over it.

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But when you arrive, you are let through a guarded gate and up a drive more akin to that of a private villa. The feeling continues if, as we did, you decide on a game of tennis after checking in. Here you might expect an array of tennis courts of various surfaces, and a tennis school, perhaps. Instead, you get one exquisite tennis court in the gardens, surrounded by flowerbeds and trees, with a backdrop of the hotel and that Mediterranean sky. Very private house. And we saw almost nobody else using it; once there was a solitary local teenage girl finishing a lesson with the hotel’s resident tennis coach, who looked like he had been there for decades.

The breathtaking sea view from the Pool Suite

The hotel’s legendary swimming coach, Pierre Gruneberg, meanwhile, really was at the hotel for decades before passing away last year aged 92. Among the guests he counted as his pupils were Charlie Chaplin, Somerset Maugham, Aristotle Onassis, Tina Turner, Brigitte Bardot, David Niven, Elizabeth Taylor, Bono – and LUX’s Editor-in-Chief. The pool is at the tip of the peninsula, beyond the main gardens, where the rocks drop to the sea. It is accompanied by the Club Dauphin restaurant, where we sipped on some sparkling Provence rosé (delicious in a dry, low-dosage way), while watching putative celebrities and honeymooners dunk themselves in the celebrated pool.

Read more: The best of the old and new: Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo

The palace nature of the hotel is evident in the lobby, with its Art Deco marble floors and walls. So perhaps it is a palace, but it always feels like a private one, for just you and your friends. That extends to the bedrooms: our suite looked over the lawns and flowerbeds to the sea. It felt as if a butler would knock on the door and tell us the house party was beginning at any moment. Although there were no house parties while we were there, this is a hotel with one of the most famous terraces in the world, overlooking the lawns and overhung by jasmine and bougainvillea.

The Terrasse Palace Sea View Suite at the Four Seasons Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat

With a jazz band playing in the gardens, dinner at the Michelin-starred Le Cap was magical, the cuisine as vibrant and elegant as the place: razor clams and cockles au naturel with fresh seaweed, citrus fruits and fennel bavaroise was a dish for the ages. A delicious hotel and an experience unrepeatable anywhere else in the world.

fourseasons.com/capferrat