The entrance to Prince de Galles sits just steps away from the Champs-Élysées

Looking for chic, swankiness and glamour in the ultimate Parisian location? Check out the Prince de Galles, where even the breakfast makes you feel you are in a Brigitte Bardot movie

Despite, perhaps because of, the plethora of boutique hotels that have opened in the city over the years, glamour is still an essential element for us any stay in Paris.

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And for glamour, you really have to be in one address, the Avenue George V, surrounded by luxury brands and feeling that you are a resident in the most exclusive area of Paris, the cross-cross of luxury boulevards in the 8th Arrondisement, in between the Champs-Elysees and the river.

The reception to the luxury boutique hotel is an art deco design of white and black marble

And so it felt very appropriate checking in to the Prince des Galles, in the heart of the area, with lobby of art deco black and white marble, offset by taupe carpets, and sweeping staircase. Our room was that very rare thing, and utterly silent haven in the heart of Paris, looking out over the rooftops, with no traffic noise, yet somehow in the middle of all the action. It had everything you would expect: lavish sheets, bathroom swathed in marble, and something you didn’t, in its sense of peace and tranquility.

‘Glamour is still an essential element for us any stay in Paris’

One of the most delightful parts of our stay was our breakfast. This is Paris, after all, so to be ushered into the grand dining room and offered an à la carte breakfast was special enough: but to be surrounded by the decor of the 19.20 dining room was even more so. Deep leather chairs, dramatic and vivid artworks, and a superb Eggs Benedict set one up for the day in a slow food way.

Read more: How art is remediating environmental and societal damage from overdevelopment

All of this with the assured service of a top hotel from the Luxury Collection, at a price point reasonable for its level of luxury. Love it.

Prince de Galles Hotel

A luxury bedroom at Prince de Galles

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Daniel Grieder, CEO of Hugo Boss

Since 2021, Swiss entrepreneur Daniel Grieder has been applying his versatile talents to the helm of German fashion giant Hugo Boss, where he has doubled revenue. He talks to LUX about redefining the brand for a new generation.

“Hugo Boss is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year. Our goal is to put the company in a good position for the next 100 years.” No small words from Daniel Grieder. But then why would they be, coming from the man who, before joining Hugo Boss three years ago, increased net sales as CEO of Tommy Hilfiger from $3.3 billion to $4.2 billion over three years to 2018?

So far, Grieder is keeping his word with Hugo Boss, too. Even though, as he says in the brand’s latest performance report, we are acting in a world of “global macro uncertainty”, which dampened Hugo Boss’s sales in the second quarter of 2024, the company continues to gain market share.

Enter a few of the many statistics up Grieder’s designer sleeve: more Hugo Boss stores are open than ever before (1,418); revenue rose from €1.95 billion in 2020 to €4.2 billion in 2023. And potentially crediting the increase to lockdown is nullified by the figure being €1.32 billion above 2019, then the highest Hugo Boss revenue of the millennium.

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Let’s flick back a second to the German atelier that Boss started in a century ago. Hugo Ferdinand Boss drops out of school, does military service and works in a weaving mill. In 1908, he takes over the family trousseau shop. He creates his own company in 1924, making general clothing and later military uniforms. After the Second World War, the company is handed on to his son-in-law, Eugen Holy, and in 1969 to his sons Jochen and Uwe Holy, who will facilitate the route to the Hugo Boss we know today.By the 1950s, the company began to produce work clothing and had already added men’s suits to its programme.

In the 1970s the operation’s range adopted a new focus: high-end men’s suits made of high- quality material, anchored in the suave understatement that would bring decades of success and remains an imprint of the company. Now, Hugo Boss was a leading global brand. The following decades saw it attract a breadth of demographics with product that ranged from men’s, women’s and children’s wear to eyewear, watches and perfume.

Supermodel and Boss brand ambassador Gisele Bündchen in the Boss A/W24 campaign

In 2022 under Grieder, the company refocused to appeal to a younger, more global audience by leading on a two-brand strategy of Hugo and Boss, both with a 24/7 approach and offering businesswear as well as leisurewear, but addressing different target groups. Grieder has amplified the dual-branded identity through “emotional storytelling and comprehensive brand experiences”. He has gathered celebrity brand ambassadors, including Italian tennis player Matteo Berrettini, Brazilian supermodel Gisele Bündchen and Senegalese-born TikTok star Khaby Lame.

And his vast omnichannel campaign hinges on two simple hashtags: #BeYourOwnBoss addresses Millennials with the latest pieces that sit comfortably on the historical cornerstones of the brand, from the biker jacket and a contemporary take on the double-breasted jacket to the neutral shades of straight trousers and polo tops (with a zing of edge from transparent, collared jerseys).

#HugoYourWay speaks to Gen Z with flashes of bolder colours and edgier styles in lines that focus on leisurewear and clothes for all occasions. Think the recent Hugo genderless collaboration with Istanbul streetwear label Les Benjamins: straight, boxy cuts in leisurewear that leans towards the street, but with signature poise.

Boss brand ambassador and tennis player Matteo Berrettini at the Boss Open 2024, in pieces from the Boss x Matteo Berrettini collection

This, says Grieder, is what matters to the modern customer: “to be addressed by one brand in different areas of life”. Indeed, areas of his own life seem to perfectly straddle the company’s brand Boss. “I am more of a classic type,” he divulges of his own tastes. On the weekend that means jeans, a polo shirt, blue sweater and sneakers. At work it’s a jacket or suit. “Our new performance suit, of course,” he says, with a loyal nod to the new Boss stretch-fabric suits in light green, grey, khaki and blue.

As an active man, seen often on the Austrian slopes, the brand’s concurrent focus on sport and leisurewear seems suited to him as much as to the majority market. It is reflected in the various collaborations with sporting events, epitomising pared-back chic and quiet confidence – for instance with Formula 1, the Hahnenkamm ski races and the branded ATP tennis tournament, Boss Open.

A look from the Boss “Out of Office” S/S25 runway show in Milan

A look from the Boss “Out of Office” S/S25 runway show in Milan

“We must revolutionise the fashion industry to minimise its negative impact on the environment. No planet, no fashion”

Grieder is the type to do this. To take two major fashion brands, belt them up and shoot them back into the spotlight, both within a decade – and still be up before anyone else in the morning for a game of tennis or a shift down the slopes.

“I discovered my desire for entrepreneurship at an early age,” he says, unsurprisingly, judging from his steely confidence and steady eye. “While still at school I had an ice-cream stand, sold stones from the mountains to tourists, was a soap importer and even sold cars for some time.”

Read next: Stephan Winkelmann on Lamborghini

How did his determined gaze turn to fashion? “Growing up, people asked if I was one of the Grieders from Bongénie Grieder department stores in Switzerland. No, I am not. But I started thinking that fashion was something I could do,” he says. He got a holiday job at a fashion shop, started a commercial apprenticeship at the Globus department store in Zurich, studied economics and his decision was made. The first company he founded specialised in buying and selling leather jackets from Turkey.

Later, he says, “I represented brands such as Pepe Jeans, Stone Island, CP Company, Belstaff and finally established Tommy Hilfiger in the European market before I joined this company.” That is the DNA of a CEO: blasé but hardworking. “I love challenges,” he says, with the glint of a professional sportsperson. “Athletes in particular have this special mindset I admire.” Grieder’s star-studded catwalk through the fashion business comes not from a competitive drive, he claims, but from the philosophy that “what is good enough today might not be good enough tomorrow: that is what drives and motivates me”.

Racing driver and Boss brand ambassador Fernando Alonso in the A/W24 Boss x Aston Martin capsule collection campaign

Setting his mind to Hugo Boss in 2021, he created the “Claim 5” strategy, a comprehensive five-pillar plan of brand identity, product, digitalisation, omnichannel presence and growth. “Our brands had lost relevance over the years,” he says. So he set himself the task to make Hugo Boss one of the top 100 global brands. And attracting those “new, younger consumers” from Millennials to Gen Z is at the crux of it.

Hugo x Imaginary Ones, a collaboration with Web 3.0 for mental- health awareness

“You always have to keep your finger on the pulse,” he says of his fashion inspirations. And “always”, for Grieder, means not just at work but at home, over casual conversations with his two sons or in front of the TV. It was by stumbling across a Netflix documentary about a particular dark-trousered, dapper ex-England footballer with a Boss-like muted colour palette, seen often in a biker jacket, rugged boots and a masculine edge, that he found a match. “Beckham is a true Boss,” says Grieder. “He is much more than a former soccer player.

He is an icon in the world of sport and also fashion. He is a successful entrepreneur as well as a dedicated family man.” Grieder has made Beckham his latest brand partner for Boss. Their global, multi- year design collaboration begins in spring/ summer 2025.

“What is good enough today, might not be good enough tomorrow: That is what drives and motivates me”

Football icon and Boss brand partner David Beckham, in the Boss A/W24 collection campaign

But with a presence in 130 countries, each with regions of varying taste, how does one keep communication sufficient, eyes peeled, finger on so many pulses? “We want to exploit growth opportunities in local markets by targeting regional needs,” says Grieder. Colour-coded lines, demarcating different styles, provide tracking opportunities for various strands of Hugo Boss.

See Boss Black (iconic tailoring), Boss Orange (casual), Boss Green (athleisure) and now Boss Camel (tailored luxury, including made to measure), as well as Hugo Red (contemporary tailoring and casualwear) and Hugo Blue (denim-based). These weave together different aspects of the brand’s global story, and harness the fact that brand recognition reportedly improves by up to 80 per cent with colour-related schemes. China, for instance, is particularly keen on Boss Camel.

If, in Grieder’s words, “the most exciting time in fashion is right now”, what can we look out for in Hugo Boss’s future? Unsurprisingly, Hugo Boss, as with all other major brands, “must revolutionise the fashion industry to minimise its negative impact on the environment.

No planet, no fashion.” The brand looks to respect the environment and “as a premium supplier, sustainability is a matter of course”. How to do this? Grieder notes the Digital Campus created by Hugo Boss to utilise data analytics and more.

A look from the Boss “Out of Office” S/S25 catwalk show.

A look from the Boss “Out of Office” S/S25 catwalk show

In fact, sustainability is not only a necessity but a style point. “Innovation is a key driver of sustainability, which is why innovation and sustainability go hand in hand for us,” he says. “We love fashion. We change fashion.” According to Grieder, Hugo Boss will soar both in terms of sustainability and style to become “the leading premium tech-driven fashion platform worldwide”.

“Innovation is a key driver of sustainability, which is why innovation and sustainability go hand in hand for us”

It remains to be seen whether Hugo Boss will fulfil its goal of reducing CO2 emissions by at least 50 per cent by 2030 compared to 2019, and achieving net zero by 2050. But for now, there’s no wavering to a character, force or closing comment such as Grieder’s: ‘I am absolutely convinced,” he concludes, “that this will perfectly set us up for the future.”

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Reading time: 9 min

A soirée to celebrate Cristal and art in London. Left to right: Lorna Mourad, Jennifer Chamandi Boghossian, Rob Boghossian, Ege Gürmeriçliler, Darius Sanai, Laurent Ganem, Maria Sukkar, Frédéric Rouzaud, Anne-Pierre d’Albis-Ganem, Nadim Mourad, Richard Billett, Samantha Welsh and Malek Sukkar, with an Anish Kapoor artwork on the wall

Louis Roederer, maker of Cristal and other celebrated champagnes, has long led the way in environmentally conscious winemaking, using biodynamic and organic techniques. CEO Frédéric Rouzaud has also brought his passion for art photography to the fore with a series of initiatives supporting photographers around related themes. Now the champagne house champions massal selection, an expensive way of allowing natural selection to create diversity in the vineyard and complexity of taste. LUX visits the vineyards in France and speaks with Chief Winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon about how working with nature is the hardest – and most rewarding – labour of all.

Frédéric Rouzaud, CEO of Cristal maker Louis Roederer, commissioned artistic photographer Jean-Charles Gutner to create a series of images based on the leaves produced by grapevines of different varieties grown using massal selection

A Conversation with Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon of Louis Roederer about how working with nature stimulates biodiversity, conserves the soil – and makes the greatest wines

LUX: How long does it take someone to gain the necessary expertise to identify the best vines in a vineyard and to curate a massal selection?

Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon: It’s not one person only. Louis Roederer’s In Vinifera Aeternitas project was launched in 2002 and includes a group of experts: Professor Jean-Michel Boursiquot from Montpellier, probably the most talented ampelograph [one who identifies and classifies grapevines] in the world; Lilian Bérillon – a nursery owner specialising in massal selection of the best domaines all over the world – and his team; and our own vineyard team.

Jean-Charles Gutner, creator of Solar Panel, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon and Frédéric Rouzaud

LUX: I read that for massal selection at Louis Roederer, you say the best bunches are small or medium in size, weighing 100g to 110g and of perfect quality. What makes a perfect grape?

JBL: ’Perfect quality’ does need explanation. In our quest, it means a combination of clean fruit – disease-free through thicker skins and good aeration – and homogeneous phenolic ripeness in berries of the same cluster, avoiding green or overripe berries that could create vegetal or cooked-fruit notes.

LUX: Louis Roederer is also opening up new possibilities by growing young vines without American rootstocks, that is, pre-phylloxera style [phylloxera destroyed many European vineyards from the 19th century onwards, a crisis combatted by grafting European vines onto phylloxera-tolerant American vine rootstock]. How is it working?

JBL: So far we must admit we have had little success in this experiment. Most of the vines have now been infected by phylloxera. Only very few are still alive. We follow them to see if they are resilient or not. We are also working on different clones of rootstocks.

A leaf from a Chardonnay vine from Avize, a village in the Cotes des Blancs, the hillsides renowned for producing the greatest Chardonnay wine in the region

LUX: What do you find most exciting about massal selection?

JBL: The most exciting thing is to witness the huge biodiversity within Pinot Noir. There can be up to 10-15 days difference in the ripening process, which is amazing.

Read more: Two key players in British fashion raise the game for personal shopping

LUX: You have said of massal selection that you had to regenerate the plant material and recover some of the singularity of the Louis Roederer style through massal selection. Does this affect the taste?

JBL: The first goal is to regenerate virus-free vines for a strong ecosystem, through the diversity of individual vines replanted with pools of a minimum of 30 individuals. The second goal is to protect our unique legacy: we have chosen our oldest plots of vines, pre-1960, to select our massal vines. Those vines now make Cristal rosé, but before 1974 they were the heart of our Cristal domaine from its inception in 1876. Therefore, we believe that by regenerating this material, we are also on a crusade in the name of taste.

Louis Roederer uses sustainable practices, including massal selection, to work with nature and achieve the most accurate expression of its unique terroirs

LUX: In massal selection, the talk is of going back in time, to recultivating the uniqueness that wine used to have. But has wine always tasted the same, or did it taste different, say, in the pre-phylloxera era, and if so, how?

JBL: The idea is not to go back in time. Our In Vinifera Aeternitas project aims to restore the diversity of vines, which will reinforce the natural resilience of our production and ecosystem.

LUX: How does Louis Roederer’s process of massal selection differ to competitors?

JBL: It is our own unique legacy, therefore it cannot be compared to anyone else’s. We have also elevated the idea in an artistic dimension, such as when the photographer Jean-Charles Gutner teamed up with the In Vinifera Aeternitas project to craft unique pictures of the biodiversity of our ecosystem in his Solar Panel series.

The making of leaf images, from the Solar Panel series, by Jean-Charles Gutner

LUX: How has massal selection changed Louis Roederer’s character as a company?

JBL: It has not changed our character, which has always been to secure our family-owned business for the next generations. In Vinifera Aeternitas is one part – the biodiversity and taste part – of a higher ambition, which includes many other aspects of permaculture, like reducing our footprint through responsible soil, water and energy use. Hence our family motto: “hand in hand with nature”.

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LUX: What led the Rouzaud family and yourself towards a climate-conscious future?

JBL: The key was probably our meeting with Bill Mollisson, the father of permaculture, in Tasmania in early 1990s. It became obvious to all of us that we had to secure the future by introducing the philosophy of permaculture – working organically with nature not against it, considering craftsmanship and social aspect, biodiversity, low energy use, rotation, the balance of tradition and innovation.

“Perfect quality” black grapes from the vineyards are used for propagation in Louis Roederer’s massal selection

LUX: What is the future of massal selection? Will it ever take over from clonal selection, which ensures uniformity and consistent quality?

JBL: Unlike clonal selection, our massal selection is a permanent quest. Every year we must reselect new individual plants and add some individuals of different origins for propagation. It must be a permanent process if you want to restore biodiversity, as vines adapt and mutate under abiotic factors, such as water and soil.

Read more: Lebanese couturier Elie Saab on designing beauty

LUX: What is the future of massal selection? Will it ever take over from clonal selection, which ensures uniformity and consistent quality?

JBL: Unlike clonal selection, our massal selection is a permanent quest. Every year we must reselect new individual plants and add some individuals of different origins for propagation. It must be a permanent process if you want to restore biodiversity, as vines adapt and mutate under abiotic factors, such as water and soil.

Gutner’s leaf images champion the biodiversity of the Louis Roederer vines

LUX: How many people are involved with massal selection at Louis Roederer?

JBL: All our vineyard team is involved: 50 to 60 people!

LUX: Does massal selection make economic, as well as environmental sense?

JBL: Not in the short term, but we are family owned and take all our decisions for the long term.

Interview by Isabella Fergusson

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The spa of the Ultima Crans-Montana covers 1,000m² of the property, and has an on-site lake surrounded by alpine woods

This private luxury chalet, previously owned by Bernard Arnault, from the Ultima Collection is located in Crans-Montana, a sunny gem on a high shelf in the Valais Alps of Switerzland. The 16-bedroom chalet offers guests the opportunity to take advantage of winter sports and other activities in this beautifully located village, as Fabienne Amez-Droz discovers

In the heart of the Valais Alps, Crans-Montana offers a slightly more understated charm compared to other Swiss ski resorts like Gstaad or St. Moritz, which are internationally more well-known. But it definitely has the same glitz – plus epic and scenic skiing.

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This sunny village, made up of the towns of Crans and Montana, attracts many golfers in the summer, with the Omega European Masters and welcomes ski enthusiasts and families in the winter, who come to explore the mountains air and enjoy ski touring.

The spa area features sauna, hammam, fitness gym, and heated outdoor pool

Just 2 hours and 20 minutes from Geneva Airport lies the former ski retreat of Roger Moore. Bridging the gap between the luxury hotel and luxury home genres, the Ultima Collection with its properties in places like Gstaad, Courchevel, Megève and many more, targets elite travellers with an eye for luxurious details and services.

Read more: Grace Hotel St. Moritz review

In 2018, the Ultima Collection acquired two luxury chalets in Crans-Montana, which were originally built by Bernard Arnault in the 1990s. The properties were renovated and the interiors completely redesigned – although there is a new owner since this year who wants to redecorate all the Ultima properties again with for example more classical art on the walls.

The two chalets offer 16-bedrooms in total and are connected underground

Today, affluent ski enthusiasts can rent the two private chalets, connected by an underground passage, featuring a total of 16 bedrooms, on a weekly price basis. The Ultima in Crans-Montana is particularly popular among Russian and Middle Eastern guests, in winter as well as in summer where people enjoy the fresh air and some hiking.

Football legend Lionel Messi and other celebs have visited the residence in recent years. Sven Flory, Chief Commercial Officer of the Ultima Collection, mentioned that these kind of guests really enjoy the privacy of the chalets and that there are no other guests around.

Situated in the heart of the Crans-Montana region, the two chalets are set in between natural lakes and woods

The chalet’s architecture combines traditional Swiss with contemporary elements, featuring natural materials like wood and stone paired with sleek modern furnishings.

The chalet’s wellness facilities offer non-skiers a good alternative programme. Guests can indulge in the spa that includes an outdoor pool, hammam, snow shower and treatment rooms, where you can book an appointment – from massages to facials, tailored to individual preferences.

The spa team can personalise detox and immune-boosting treatments to a persons exact needs

The wellness area also features a gym equipped with all necessary equipment. Yoga-lovers can book a private teaching session with their in-house yoga instructor. Especially after having done the first ski day of the season, muscles might be sore and a good stretch might help to prepare you for the rest of the week.

Read more: The intimate grandeur of the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat 

For the real skiers, the Ultima Crans-Montana provides experienced ski guides to assist guests in exploring the area’s slopes and off-piste trails. The chalet of course does have a ski room, equipped with heated lockers and all the necessary facilities to keep your Fusalp or Moncler ski gear safe and warm. I enjoyed rocketing down from the high lift station at Les Violettes, from where you can see a spectacular view of all the Valais Alps including the Matterhorn. The skiing is a mix of high mountain and forest trails, and suitable for all grades.

The two chalets can accommodate up to 38 guests. Both of the buildings have access to the retreat’s spa and outdoor pool area

From a cozy cheese fondue, beef wellington to a barbeque outside – a private chef will be available at all times to create menus tailored to guests’ tastes, using locally sourced ingredients. Pair the dishes with the local wines from the Valais, grown in the vineyards below the resort, like a floral Petite Arvine (white) or spicy Cornalin (red) – which seem to be quite unknown in the world of wines, as we Swiss like to keep the good things to ourselves.

The two chalets feature a cinema room, cigar lounge, an office space and a Billiard room

The Ultima Crans-Montana is more than just a place to stay; it is a destination in itself. For those seeking the ultimate alpine luxury, plus seclusion and being away from the crowds of people you know in Courchevel or St Moritz, the Ultima Crans-Montana is a compelling choice.

Find out more: www.ultimacollection.com

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Reading time: 4 min

Locke am Platz combines Riviera style with modernism

LUX visits a surprising and refreshing new addition to the Zurich hotel and dining scene

We have always found Zürich one of the more positively surprising cities in Europe to visit. It has a reputation as a serious, bank-ish type of place, but it is also an ancient middle European city with a quite gorgeous old town, situated on a huge lake surrounded by forests and mountains.

The hotel is minutes from the city centre,  with the boutiques of the Bahnhofstrasse and the lake in easy reach

 

Attractive enough, but even more interesting is, if not quite a subculture, then a contemporary art and design culture that counteracts the old-fashioned chic image that the city has.
And so it was very refreshing to check into the Locke, which is situated on a pretty square just outside the town centre, a 10 minute walk to the banks and shops of the Bahnhofstrasse. No formal suited doorman glaring it to you as you come in here in your jeans and T-shirt (if that is how you choose to dress). Instead, a jeans and T-shirt wearing receptionist with a friendly smile against a soundtrack of (when I arrived) The Clash. Refreshing.

The restaurant Choupette, downstairs in the hotel, is shaped and inspired by traditional brasserie cuisine, head chef Jaco Redelinghuys creates modern dishes with a twist. to a cool soundtrack

The check process was both efficiently Swiss and jolly in a contemporary way and soon we were in our top floor suite, all 20th century modern in design with a little kitchenette and a balcony terrace with tables and chairs looking out over the rest of this residential area – perfect for making you feel like a local, rather than someone on a business trip.
Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine
The Locke has made waves with its restaurant/bar Choupette on the ground floor, so we soon descended and were whisked to a into a vibey space which was pleasingly contemporary in its simplicity.
Just as impressive as the well sourced and well executed food was the wine list, which has been imaginatively and intelligently curated away from the good but repetitive classics you can expect in a solid European four star hotel, and over instead to something little more fun.

Time travellers from the 1970s and 80s would feel right at home with the decor

We particularly enjoyed a refreshing and bright alternative to rosé champagne from the deep Rhine Valley in eastern Switzerland which produces some excellent hard to get wines.
Bravo for this curation, and also the curation of music, as the positive creativity found at Reception continued in the restaurant with tunes from the likes of Joy Division, Aztec Camera and others keeping us company during dinner.
Our room was quiet and went well insulated from light, and altogether it’s a place we would return to business trip – and, if we came on a Friday night, for an impromptu party at Choupette.
Find out more: www.lockeliving.com
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Astrea London’s founders Claire Ferrini and Nathalie Morrison

Astrea London, founded by Claire Ferrini and Nathalie Morrison, aims to epitomise feminine elegance through visually stunning and unique pieces of jewellery, without harming our planet. Opting for lab-grown diamonds rather than mined gems, Astrea aims to “reshape the landscape of high-end luxury jewellery” with its blend of glamorous design and ethical business practice. Talking to LUX, Ferrini discusses the influence and heritage of grandmother Margaret Coglin, “the Grace Kelly of Kenya”, the importance of sustainability in jewellery and the delicate designs that Astrea London creates.

LUX: What inspired you to create the brand?

Claire Ferrini: The inspiration to start Astrea came from my grandmother, who gifted me a beautiful Trilogy diamond necklace 30 years ago. The diamonds were in fact lab grown diamonds and it was my grandmother’s belief that we should not be mining diamonds but protecting our planet and embracing lab grown diamonds instead. She believed it would be the future of the diamond industry. 30 years on, I decided to look into that concept and together with my business partner Nathalie, we started Astrea.

LUX: Have your personal backgrounds influenced its conception?

CF: We both come from financial backgrounds so the jewellery industry was new to us.  But setting up businesses is Nathalie’s forte and with my engineering background and interest in lab grown diamonds, the business came together easily.  As well as this, we each have four children who are all very much aware of how we should be protecting our planet and adopting sustainable practices in our every day lives.  Being able to start a business that’s very existence will eliminate practices that desecrate our planet is hugely exciting and has inspired our children to look at ways in which we can further help protect our planet.  As well as that, our motto is to “always give back” and it is our aim to always give back to those less fortunate than ourselves and to support charities close to our hearts.  We both have ties to Africa and the charities we support look to educate and empower children in Africa.

Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine

LUX: Did you experience any challenges in creating a brand around lab grown diamonds?

CF: Lab diamond sales in the US are 75% of all diamond sales today. However, the UK is way behind that and our first challenge, going into the lab grown diamond industry, was to raise awareness and educate the customer about lab diamonds and the fact that they are REAL diamonds.  The lab diamond industry has definitely created issues for the mined diamond industry, but it will take time for customers and businesses to accept and embrace the idea.

LUX: What has been the response to your use of lab grown diamonds?

CF: We have been overwhelmed with the positivity and the take up of lab diamond jewellery since we started the business.  When clients have that ‘lightbulb moment’ and realise that not only are lab diamonds 100% identical to their mined counterparts, so a gemologist with decades of experience cannot tell the difference, but also that they are in fact better in quality and sparkle as well as ethically produced – that is a win for us.  We believe that the customer has a right to understand what they are buying and does not need to be paying inflated prices (up to 80% more) for mined diamonds that are in fact worse quality.  We have also noticed a positive trend with influencers and celebrities keen to wear our stones as they are more sustainable and ethically produced and we were thrilled to appear a few times on the Cannes film festival red carpet this year, with the likes of supermodel Coco Rocha wearing our pieces.

Supermodel Coco Rocha wearing Astrea London pieces on the red carpet at Cannes Film Festival

LUX: What characterises the jewellery design of Astrea?

CF: We began our journey into lab diamond jewellery with the aim to come up with classic, every day, simple jewellery that was a staple in one’s jewellery box.  That included eternity rings, studs, simple pendants and tennis bracelets.  Our aim was to produce the best quality diamond jewellery that was both classic and timeless – we only use certified top quality diamonds with D/E/F colours and VS1+ clarity, which sits in the top 1% of quality diamonds worldwide.  Once we had achieved best quality, we moved onto designing bespoke pieces that showcased versatility and manufacturing complexity that would not be possible in mined diamonds – for example our “Eternal Eight necklace” that can be worn in eight different ways, from choker necklace to earrings, lariat necklace and more. With over 105 colourless diamonds (graded D/E/F and comparable to only the top 1% of quality diamonds globally), it was a showstopper of beautiful diamonds combined with state of the art innovation.

LUX: Have your sustainability principles shaped the brand’s aesthetic?

CF: To date, we have focused on creating pieces that are timeless rather than trendy so that it remains relevant and will always be a part of one’s staple jewellery collection. We now also create beautiful pieces with lab grown coloured diamonds always ensuring best quality stones and jewellery manufacture, using only sustainable lab diamond stones.

Astrea London’s Baguette Bracelet

LUX: Why is an ‘ethical future’ so important to Astrea?

CF: An ethical future is crucial to Astrea and the lab diamond industry for several reasons. Today’s consumers are increasingly aware of the ethical implications of their purchases and therefore a commitment by suppliers to have ethical practices, helps meet this demand and attracts customers who truly prioritise sustainability and social responsibility. As well as this, lab diamonds have a significantly lower environmental footprint compared to mined diamonds and this is the backbone of our business. It is Astrea’s aim to promote lab diamonds, commit to strict ethical standards and promote environmental sustainability and social responsibility.

Read next: 180 years of history with Penfolds

LUX: While lab-grown diamonds are far more ethical and environmentally-friendly than diamond mining, there is still a positive carbon footprint from the heat and pressure required to grown them. Does Astrea have any plans for achieving carbon neutrality?

CF: Yes absolutely.  Whilst lab grown diamonds are proven to be significantly more sustainable with fully recycled water usage and only 17kw per rough carat produced versus 106-150kw for well-known mined companies, we are actively pursuing strategies to achieve carbon neutrality and reduce our overall environmental impact. With a combination of solar power, recycled water, research and development of new technologies that require less energy, and signed codes of conduct to ensure continued work towards a zero-carbon footprint, it is our aim to ultimately achieve net-zero diamonds. We are constantly and actively looking into offsetting our carbon footprint and are members of Responsible jewellery councils in order to keep abreast of the industry standards.

This image and next: Astrea London uses only lab-grown diamonds, presenting no ethical issues about mining or treatment of workers

LUX: What do you think is the future of lab-grown diamonds?

CF: At Astrea, we believe that within the next 5-10 years, there will no longer be the need for mined diamond jewellery and lab diamond jewellery will fully take over the diamond industry.  The next generation has little to no interest in carving up the Earth to mine diamonds and for that reason, we believe lab diamonds will ultimately be the only diamonds on the market.  Currently lab diamonds make up 50% of the engagement ring industry in the US – whilst the UK is behind on numbers, that trend is certainly picking up here too. According to the Economist, “75% of diamonds globally will be lab grown by 2050”.  We anticipate that this will materialise by 2035.

LUX: Do you think that lab-gown diamonds will one day replace diamond mining completely?

CF: Absolutely – lab grown diamonds are the future of the diamond industry.  The diamond industry is undergoing significant changes spurred by increasing awareness and evolving consumer preferences.  Laboratory grown diamonds are gaining a lot of traction, providing customers with the same stunning beauty and elegance of natural diamonds but with transparency, sustainability and ethical practices that align with their values.

LUX: We’d love to know more about your design process – your collections have different inspirations but for example, please tell us more about the inception of the Grace Eternal collection?

CF: The Grace Eternal collection was inspired by my grandmother, Margaret Coglin, who was always known as the “Grace Kelly of Kenya” where she lived.  The eternal collection consists of classic staple pieces, including tennis bracelets, pendants and eternity rings, that will never go out of fashion and are easy to wear, timelessly beautiful and are simple staple classics.  Bought as a collection, these have been incredibly popular.  We have since evolved into our L’amour collection which is a stunning collection of heart shaped jewellery including our hearts entwined ring which has been hugely popular, our heart trilogy necklaces, drop earrings and heart pendants – perfect for Valentines and that special occasion.  Our bespoke part of the business has been hugely successful whereby we design and create bespoke pieces for our clients.  We have 3 designers who come with a wealth of experience from the top jewellery brand houses and who are instrumental in ensuring all our designs are unique – we look forward to introducing these designs and creations imminently with different shape diamonds, set into intricate pieces.

LUX: Do you have plans for a London boutique?

CF: We have just opened our first UK store at the Fairmont Windsor Park, having opened at the Villa la Coste in France, this Summer.  It has been a huge success for Astrea and gives customers the opportunity to see our pieces in person and to judge for themselves the quality of our jewellery.  We do have plans for a London boutique as well as other cities in Europe.

Pieces from Astrea London’s L’Amour Collection

LUX: Do you have a favourite piece and why?

CF: I personally love our tennis bracelets – because they can be worn day and night, from weddings to evenings out.  They are classic yet timeless and elegant and when made with different shaped stones, for example our oval tennis bracelet, they are strikingly beautiful.  No matter how big or small you go, they carry such a huge impact.

astrealondon.com

 

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Reading time: 8 min

In the heart of the heartbreakingly pretty town of Lucerne, by the lake of the same name, sits Mandarin Oriental Lucerne, Switzerland. Does it live up to its promise? LUX takes a plane, a train and a stroll along the lakefront to visit the palace hotel and find out 

Is Lucerne one of the most underrated towns in Europe? A gem of an ancient town, small enough to feel like a big village and with barely any evidence of industry, spread along the edge of a lake with a massive view of the central Swiss Alps and a bridge in the centre of town straight out of a Brothers Grimm fairytale

Its only sin is to be in the middle of a country with so many views that visitors perhaps feel spoiled for choice. Until now, there has not quite been a world-class place to stay in the town, to match its world-class location, views and tourist sites. That all changed when the Mandarin Oriental opened, after a five year refurbishment of what used to be The Palace. 

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Mandarin, a Hong Kong based luxury hospitality group, does not do anything except excellent hotels, and does them with a panache that belies the terms “contemporary“ or “traditional“ – somehow its hotels are superior to both, whilst also encapsulating them.

How would this play in this grand old building in a traditional city?

The pedestrianised pathway just outside the hotel allows for a safe and easy stroll after your meal

The first, decidedly positive, impression on walking from the station (you really must walk around towns in Switzerland if you can, the views are all around and the air is fresh), is joy that the lakeside road along the front of the hotel, lined with trees, has been entirely given over to pedestrians and bicycles. This means the only traffic in front of the hotel’s grand facade is a morning and evening passegiata on holidays and weekends, and the swish of cyclists going to work on weekdays.

Due to the way the hotel has been remodelled, the entrance is at one end of a long building, you walk into a corridor and turn right into a palatial but contemporary reception area from from which you are whisked up, in LUX’s case, to a big suite with a small balcony (these were built in the era before global warming, when balconies in central Europe were for occasional use only) and just gorgeous decor. 

Chilling on the first evening involved looking over the tops of the trees and across the lake, to a line of wavy white Alps as they turned rose and then slate coloured in the sunset. A couple of glasses of champagne later, LUX could have stayed on the balcony all night, but a chilly breeze was descending from the glaciers and we also had a dinner awaiting us, a few floors directly below, on the buzzing front terrace adjoining the lakeside promenade.

This has been elegantly done, with just a low set of metal railings separating it from the promenade so you do not feel like you are caged in. It is a mystery to us why Italian Alpine lakes are so celebrated while those in Switzerland, which are geographically identical, are less so. This was possibly due to the cooler climate on the northern side of the Alps in Switzerland in years past, but these days, Switzerland has long months of sunshine from spring until autumn, with mirror image views compared to those of the Italian lakes, and, in this particular case, a refinement and lack of overcrowding that is hard to find sometimes in Italy.

Read next: Maryam Eisler interviewing Pamela Willoughby

LUX’s preferred breakfast location was the little balcony in our room, no reflection or the beautiful breakfast room downstairs space but simply an indication of how good the view was from the balcony – also showing that you don’t need a giant terrace to enjoy outdoor living.

Mandarin Oriental had a big challenge with this property, due to its size, scale, history and also its layout. We have never seen them fail yet, and we are delighted to see that the result is not just good, but world leading. It’s a destination hotel, in a destination town, with an exhilaration of view that is unmatched. Just make sure you get a room with a balcony.

https://www.mandarinoriental.com/en/luzern/palace

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In the second of our winter season series on luxury hotels in Switzerland, LUX visits luxury gems in Geneva, Zurich and Lucerne, and destinations new and old high in the Alps. Next up: The Grace, St Moritz reviewed

No mountain resort in the world has the same quality or quantity of proper luxury legacy hotels as St Moritz – in fact the resort high in the Engadine Valley rightly claimed to have invented luxury mountain hotels in the 19th century. And it has remained that way ever since, with no additions to the luxury portfolio for many decades.

Until recently, until the opening of the Grace.

The new hotel, built just above the station and the resorts’ lake which is the home of some of the world’s most glamorous winter activities, has quite a challenge: to attract the attention of the super wealthy heritage crowd who have been coming, winter and (sometimes) summer, for generations, and are used to formal splendour of the existing portfolio, whilst attracting a new crowd of next generation wealth who have travelled more broadly than any of their predecessors and know what luxury looks like in Indonesia, Chile and Miami.

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Sweep into the Grace, and your first impression is that they are doing a pretty good job of it. There is, as in all these type of hotel, a big, high ceilinged lobby area with tall windows affording of view over the lake and forest, but it is not staffed by suited waiters, it has a more, contemporary private members club field, with art works on the walls and contemporary arts and design books on the tables. 

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Walk a few metres along and you get to the spectacular bar area, not a sideline here but a main feature with a long bar and tables arranged as if you are in a jazz club, which frequently you are – whilst we were there there was a modern jazz band playing all evening, a cleverly curated mix appealing to both generations. Far harder to do than to say it.

And that’s the beauty of the Grace. It’s not a hotel that has looked at its competitors and decided to do something oppositionally different, or hyper-contemporary to the point of being out of place. It is simply taking the mountain luxury specific to the area and moving it along.

The restaurant, relaxing in taupes and greys, looks out over the lake and the Alps; LUX enjoyed Hokkaido pumpkin, kingfish crudo with pineapple aguachile, and seabass in bouillabaisse sauce.


The rooms benefit from a few advantages of a new build: they are large and residential in feel, with big terraces and bathrooms, with more in the layout of the luxury apartment than a hotel and all the better for it.  

The spa, also newly built, is a standout with LUX enjoying a caviar balm treatment. Although we found the otherwise delightful 20m pool a little chilly at 26 degrees; we prefer a milder 29 degrees. 

We much admired the intriguing selection of art in public spaces – we feel there is a lot more potential here as St Moritz is becoming one of Europe’s art capitals – and a service style which is carefully calibrated not to compromise on old school Swiss quality, while dialling down on the formality. An excellent addition to the scene, and we will be back to the Grace.

https://www.gracestmoritz.ch

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In the first of our winter season series on luxury hotels in Switzerland, LUX visits luxury gems in Geneva, Zurich and Lucerne, and destinations new and old high in the Alps. First up: the Four Seasons Geneva reviewed

In the world’s great cities there is a certain satisfaction that comes purely from being in the right location. That’s not necessarily the geographical centre of the city – we wouldn’t want to stay on Picadilly Circus in London or Times Square in New York. 

There is a physical location in each city that makes you feel that you are both at the heart of things and also looking at the best of where you are. That might be the Place de la Concorde in Paris; or Central by the harbour in Hong Kong.

In Geneva, arriving at the Four Seasons, you know you are exactly where you need to be.

The hotel faces across the point at which the banana shape of Lake Geneva, which extends east all the way into the Alps, contracts into the upper mouth of the river rhone, which then flows down through France all the way to the Mediterranean. Facing you across the waters is the old town of Geneva, above which rise the Alps and, on a clear day, the mighty Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Western Europe, towering over you with its dome of snow year round. 

The feeling that you have arrived, with a capital A is emphasised by the greetings of the seemingly endless procession of staff as you come in, who magically know your name as they open the door for the first time. Four Seasons service at its best.

Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine 

Our room, a junior suite, looked out over the lakefront embankment to the view;  it had a lavish marble bathroom and a vibe that business leaders and aristocrats have been staying there for decades, if not longer. Even before Four Seasons took it over, the hotel was the city’s premier address.

Particularly attractive is that the embankment in front of the hotel is now pedestrianised, with the exception of cars to and from the hotel, meaning you don’t have to brave or hear the traffic between the hotel and the water.

Every city luxury hotel now needs to do so much more than provide comfortable rooms, a bar and restaurants and business efficiency. And while this Grand Dame of a building would not immediately be one that you associate with an urban resort, that is exactly what it is. 

Take the elevator to the top floor, wander down the corridor into the spa and up a staircase and you are at Izumi, a funky rooftop Japanese restaurant spread across two very casual, relaxing floors.

We visited in the cold season, but nonetheless on the roof there was a marquee with a pop-up Shabu-Shabu restaurant; all around it, in summer, the terrace becomes a lively cocktail bar with – an astonishing 360° view, across the city and lake to the Alps on one side, and to the mountains on the other. A special place, and on our evening, we headed downstairs to the light and vibey Izumi for a magnificent meal.

To start with, the hotel’s own all Chardonnay champagne, light, floral, rounded and so delicious that we decided to keep with it to match the meal. We loved the Jalapeño Karashi Miso, Quinoa Salsa, Sorrel Cress Chu Toro, the Black Cod tapas with Jalepeño miso, and the Tatsuta-age baby chicken.

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On our second night, we headed down to the bar, unusually in a light and airy salon-type room on the ground floor. This is a cocktail bar at its best – although it’s so popular you have to book – with slick service and some celebrated cocktails; and also a thorough bar menu, for an excellent evening with no need for dinner.

Almost equally memorable was breakfast, which took place at the Il Lago, usually the hotel’s gourmet Italian restaurant. This was a perfect combination of an extremely high-quality buffet with excellent à la carte options. 

Later that morning, we headed back up to the top floor to the spa where we had a very smartly devised Alpina Aroma massage.

Altogether very special, and you could also almost forget that you are actually in the centre of a historic European city with plenty of attractions all around, and of course the winter sports destinations of the Alps literally within sight. If you are flying to your skiing holiday via Geneva, a couple of nights at the Four Seasons, could be a lot more relaxing than activities and partying on the slopes above.

https://www.fourseasons.com/geneva/ 

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Pamela Willoughby, photographed in 2002 by Dennis Murphy (photograph courtesy of Pamela Willoughby)

Brushing shoulders with the most influential people in the turbulent New York art world of the 80s, Pamela Willoughby, as an eminence grise within the Manhattan scene, experienced it at its subversive peak. Eccentric neighbours, a captivating graffiti coat, booze-heavy Penne a la Vodka and a hot tub in the back of a sports car remain stingingly acute in her memory, as do spaces filled by the hot artists of the time, from Warhol to Basquiat.Talking to LUX Chief Contributing Editor Maryam Eisler, she recounts the diversity of experiences and people that she encountered, reminiscing on the eclectic nature of the city. Now, she maintains her artistic passions as a consultant and curator in her home in the Hamptons

Maryam Eisler: Pamela, how did New York enter your life?

Pamela Willoughby: I left Malibu after many trips to New York City. It was full of musicians, surfers, and stars but I was interested in art. So was New York City. At first I stayed uptown at the Parker Meridian, and I’d go to the Russian Tea Room and Le Relais. Not right, so I moved to the Chelsea Hotel.

ME: When did you start going to the Chelsea?

PW: I think it was later in the 80’s.

The outside of Chelsea Hotel (photograph courtesy of Maryam Eisler)

ME: The Chelsea Hotel, an iconic location par excellence. Describe the mood at the Chelsea.

PW: It was very fun-serious.

ME: Who else lived there?

PW: George Kleinsinger, the Broadway playwright. His wife, Susan, had a small zoo in the apartment, snakes, turtles, birds, a garden on the roof with sunflowers, all flowers and many butterflies. Arthur played piano, and the music would fill the air. That’s just a little bit of what was going on. Berthold Brecht’s son and Viva the actress, writer and former Warhol superstar. Larry Rivers had revolving paintings in the lobby. Gregory Corso’s girlfriend Peggy. Virgil Thomson and his grand apartment, always holding court at El Quixote, the hotel’s Basque restaurant.

Richard Bernstein, whose technicolour work graced the covers of Interview Magazine resided on the first floor. Richard and I became close; we took walks around the corner to visit an old Irish bar. Being in the Chelsea, one would never know who would pop in, besides the old timers. Victor Hugo, Halston’s lover was a regular. Susanne Bartsch moved in shortly after I did, from Switzerland.

A family portrait of Gaby Hoffmann being held by her mother Viva in the Chelsea Hotel, by Claudio Edinger (photograph courtesy of Arthur.io)

ME: So, you were taken in immediately by this creative community?

PW: Happily.

ME: Tell me about your nights out on the town.

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PW: Susanne Bartsch had the chic clothing store in Soho on Thompson Street and I went crazy dressing in them. She took me out at first: ‘Darling, don’t bring any money with you, haven’t you heard of drink tickets?’ She had amazing clothes from an Englishman, Richard Torry, an iconoclastic designer at Vivienne Westwood. And after, he started his own label for Susanne.

My hair was down to my waist, hair extensions with gorgeous rags, wearing Richard’s dresses/ cashmere and suede – beautiful, outrageous things. Avant-garde performer, Susanne’s friend, Leigh Bowery would visit from London with his boyfriend Trojan, and we would all go out. Leigh was the quintessential example of pure flawlessness.

Richard Boch and Steve Mass, Mudd Club door in the 1980s (photograph courtesy of Richard Boch)

ME: Where were your favourite hangouts in the early 80s?

PW: Lots, The Odeon, Raoul’s….some clubs, here’s a story of one:

After meeting the infamous writer Jerzy Kosiński, he asked me to join him at the Mudd Club. So I asked Viva, a confidante, if it was a good idea and she strongly advised no. I asked her, ‘why not?’. She replied ‘He’s very naughty…’. Curiosity got the best of me. I went very late, loving the club, and took a liking to Jerzy – who was in big trouble at the time.

The Mudd Club, founded by Steve Mass, Diego Cortez and Anya, was the most cavernous space I’d ever seen. It was giant and legendary. Anita Sarko was the DJ in the VIP room, one of the first women DJs to hit the scene. Richard Boch was the doorman, and he was fabulous! Richard has chronicled this iconic nightclub in his book The Mudd Club. I also tip my hat to Kenny Kenny, Englishman and doorman par excellence.

Max Blagg reciting poetry with Ethyl Eichelberger at the Mudd Club (photograph courtesy of Max Blagg)

ME: Area was the other iconic club-  the perfect confluence of style, music and art. I remember it well.

PW: Yes, Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring, Bianca, Madonna, Jelly Bean Benitez… they were all there, and some participated in the installations, one being the iconic ART, (1985) which shaped a part of my being – it was work by Warhol, Basquiat, Haring behind glass, (as I remember), down a corridor as you entered.

Everyone in the world seemed famous. Everyone who was anyone was there, all up to complete mischief, much of it taking place in the bathrooms. It’s said Area’s inspiration was partly the Dadaism movement.

Jean-Michel Basquiat and Michael Holman at Canal Zone in NYC (photograph courtesy of Michael Holman)

ME: The galleries?

PW: Sonnabend, the Jeff Koons show, Banality –1988 / a white and gold porcelain Michael Jackson with Bubbles as one of the works, the Pink Panther… Mary Boone was across the street, after leaving Leo Castelli. Mary showed Jean-Michel after he left Annina Nosei. Julian Schnabel and Eric Fischl were also greats at her gallery.

ME: What about the Lower East Side? It’s so gentrified today but, in those days, I remember drugs and syringes everywhere, but the cool venues.

Jean-Michel Basquiat in New York City 1979 (photograph by Marcia Resnick)

PW: Everywhere! I took daily walks from the Chelsea to dream, be inspired by the graffiti and endless energy. I wore a long black leather coat and artists started using a sharpie to tag my coat. Haring, Scharf, Diaz, Basquiat. [Avenues] A, B, C & D.

ME: Is this how you got into the ‘inner circle’ by becoming a part of the scene?

PW: Maybe. I met Patti Astor of the Fun Gallery and just knew about other gallery openings.
While walking on West Broadway in that art covered leather coat one day, Warhol and William Burroughs, pointed me out, inviting me to meet them at Area the same night. That was pretty crazy.

Polaroid of Marcia Resnick, Andy Warhol, and Bobby Grossman at the Factory (photograph by Ronnie Cutrone)

ME: They just noticed you on the street? You had never met before?

PW: I’d never met them before…the right place at the right time, anything could happen those days.

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ME: Any other places?

PW: The Red Bar was a place I just had to go to. Rockets Redglare was the notorious and wonderful doorman character. The owner, Ralph, was from Vienna and a true innovator. One night he announced: ‘Andy Warhol is going to come and film – you have got to come, the next night is rehearsal’. I found a little white leather mini skirt and a short white fur coat, (we could do that then, apologies!) put on my Thierry Mugler heels and left for The Red Bar. We never saw Andy. He came incognito and filmed us, or somebody did. I was three sheets to a windstorm, because Ralph had been plying me with drinks. And all of a sudden, people saw it on his cable TV show 15 minutes. ‘Hey Pamela, we saw you on the Warhol show’. I watched and there I was, shockingly enough. Ralph thought it hysterical, and I shamelessly loved it.

Michael Holman and Nick Taylor for Gray, an experimental band founded in 1979 by Jean Michel Basquiat and Michael Holman. Original members include Wayne Clifford, Nick Taylor, and Vincent Gallo (photograph courtesy of Michael Holman)

ME: So you had your fifteen minutes of fame, as coined by Andy?

PW: Isn’t that something.

ME: Share with me an anecdotal story with Jean-Michel Basquiat.

PW: Rene Ricard fits into the scenario as we were friends; we would travel throughout the night sometimes. William Rand, the author-artist who wrote the great Rene: The NY Diaries would join often. Rene and I even put on a show featuring his work and poetry in Chinatown.

It was the late 80s. I moved from the Chelsea to live with my notorious friend, Hayne Suthon above The Pyramid Club. Rene and Jean-Michel set up camp in Tompkin’s Square Park which was then Tent City. They would drop by almost everyday to tell us stories of the night before. Rene discovered Jean-Michel as the story goes.

Lola Schnabel and Rene Ricard taken by Patrick McMullan (photograph courtesy of Lola Schnabel)

ME: Describe to me how you remember Jean-Michel.

PW:He was pretty mellow on the surface. He was stoned. I remember him drawing all the time. My friends and I would go to a bar on Ave. A., (The Betty Ford Clinic), most every night and hang late at night. I had a friend living upstairs, Jean-Michel was usually there, painting, drawing, getting high. He wouldn’t come down to the bar, but I would go upstairs when I felt like it, to see.

ME: What about Keith Haring?

PW: Keith was tagging, working, and throwing parties. He had an iconic show at Shafrazi’s on Greene Street in Soho. As we arrived, Grace Jones was on top of a limousine, dancing naked, painted and adorned by Keith. We went wild. Keith was so switched on.

ME: The one common thread between these guys was the breaking of barriers. Nothing they ever did resembled anything that had been done before.

PW: It was such an experimental time. Expressing ourselves, gay, straight, from all cultures and backgrounds. We used any form we felt like, out all night at the clubs, and importantly, style.

Pamela Willoughby, Andrea Purcigliotti, Tony ‘Buzzcock’ Barber The Pearly Queens & Kings, Deitch Art Parade (photo courtesy of Pamela Willoughby)

ME: How did you learn about events?

PW: Word of mouth and clever invitations.

ME: What about work ?

PW: I had a trust fund, when it ran out I became a chef. I threw dinner parties at home in Malibu and cooked. In New York it was the only thing I could think of to make money. After a stint on Martha’s Vineyard, I looked up the best chefs in New York, and unequivocally decided on top chef Jonathan Waxman of Jams, uptown. I walked in, mustering up my courage to speak to the chef. They needed help so I started that night. I would have worked for free for that job. For fun, after work we would go out with his buddies, Larry Forgione, Hubert, and Wolfgang Puck. Anthony Bourdain sometimes. We dashed downtown to the Palladium, Chinese restaurants, everywhere.

James Chance of The Contortions (photograph by Marcia Resnick)

ME: Food, art, music: these were worlds that meshed with each other creating a culture of its own.

PW: Absolutely. After leaving Jams, I met Dana Flynn and Kurt who were opening a small joint in Hell’s Kitchen named Trixies. After a lot of thought – well, maybe 5 minutes – I became the first chef there. No liquor license, not enough money. It was put together madly and beautifully for a song and a dance.  So much energy, starting with the unbelievable waitstaff. I was making birthday cakes for John Waters and Divine. Nightclub owners came before opening their clubs. The chefs came, and artists of course. We had an open kitchen in the back. I thought I’d be clever and put Penne a la Vodka on the menu to have a never-ending supply of vodka, which we would give to special friends – everyone – who hung around the kitchen, and that was funny.

Rene Ricard and William Rand by Anthony Gaskin. 1990 Lucky Cheng kitchen NYC (from RENE by William Rand 2022 Osprey Press)

PW: Harry Connick Jr was the house piano player; we were friends from New Orleans. Harry played with Mr. Spoons who had spoons all over him. That was such a scene. The waitstaff picked a nightly dress theme: Hawaiian skirts and outrageous inspired costuming.

There were great people: Rick Rubin, Leigh Bowery, Rudolph, Zaldy, Madonna. Top hairstylists came so I never had to pay for my hair. LOVED that. Dana dancing on tables in bullet bras and the highest platforms.

ME: Why did you leave Trixies?

PW: We got discovered. Press was all over it and it just exploded; we had to get a doorman to control it. It was hard to manage the kitchen with too many interviews. One morning I missed my spot on Good Morning America because, of course, I was dancing all night with Kurt, and then, I couldn’t do it anymore.

Klaus Nomi in New York (photograph by Marcia Resnick)

My other playing card was a possibility at M.K. I went to meet Rick, the chef there and he hired me to be his ‘other’ at night. I said goodbye to Trixie’s. M.K. was Eric and Jennifer Goode’s club, (after Area) which could be compared to the European clubs such as Bains-Douches in Paris. Goode had his art studio upstairs. Jennifer ran things. Eric’s art was shown throughout the club.

Ben Buchanan, the English photographer, chronicled the whole scene, a fusion society and art scene. Everyone was there.

ME: Would they hang with you in the kitchen?

PW: All the time. It had 18-foot ceilings and there were lots of parties for Matsuda, Comme des Garçons, and others. It was incredible who we would cook for: Harvey Fierstein dropping by from Broadway with a hello in the kitchen, John Lurie, Malcolm Forbes, Keith, Cookie Mueller — on and on. Mike Tyson arrived one night in his tricked out Lambo with a hot tub in the back.

David McDermott in 1978 at the New Wave Vaudeville show at Irving Plaza, New York City (photograph by Marcia Resnick)

I remember beloved Cookie Mueller and Lady Kier being there that night, with Anita Sarko, Haoui Montaug, Tony Shafrazi, and Beverly Johnson. We all watched him waltz in, wearing a white mink coat with a very long train, walking through the club like a king. Everyone cleared the floor for him; he was ruling. The funniest was him being followed by every society person as he strolled about everywhere.

ME: What time would you generally get home?

PW: 5am.

One day, I came in and it looked like the whole of downtown royalty was there, all naked. It was M.K.’s Christmas card photoshoot, with George Plimpton, to boot. Keith Haring would often come in for kitchen visits, with presents for us and signed prints. Sadly, he knew he had a finite time left on this earth.

Jean-Michel Basquiat (photograph by Marcia Resnick)

ME: The early 90s signalled the beginning of the end of a great creative period in the cultural history of the city. Can you comment on how AIDS put an end to all things creative and to the party scene?

PW: It seemed like the job to be done was to become an activist. We were in shock because our friends were dying. When Leigh Bowery died, it was sadder than sad. Cookie, Hauoi Montaug, Keith, it kept on going. We all loved each other so much. It was emotional, and we were young.

Read more: An Interview with Marian Goodman Gallery 

ME: I guess you could call it a sobering moment.

PW:  Indeed. We had to fight for our rights under the Reagan Administration, who completely ignored AIDS.  We were shocked seeing this unfolding in front of our very own eyes. Robert Mapplethorpe was a great loss.

Pat Place with a toy dragon (photograph by Marcia Resnick)

ME: So all this potential, all this unleashing of creative juices, just abruptly came to an end?

PW: Yes and no. Creativity always wins. I am an eternal optimist to this day.

ME: Was there a sense of guilt amongst the survivors?

PW: I don’t remember, exactly. The friends and activists I knew and know were angry. That was when the activism came into play and everybody went full on with it. Silence=Death was strongThere was no time to feel guilty in my opinion. There was just time to get on with it and try to help.

Pamela Willoughby by Billikidbrand

ME: And today? Where do you live and what are you up to?

PW: I have a place in the Springs NY, the artist enclave of East Hampton, where the light is brilliant, carrying the energy of every painter or sculptor who has worked and visited here.

I’m a curator and strategist with an art consultancy firm. I was asked to join the Arts Committee at LongHouse Reserve, helping a very special institution and sculpture garden.

It’s my very favourite place, now led by Carrie Rebora Barratt, formerly of the Metropolitan Museum and the New York Botanical Garden. The founder, Jack Lenor Larson, insisted that his garden, global collections, and programs would live on. Every July we hold a benefit gala with themes that are beyond imaginative, with inspiring honourees. In 2024, we honoured artists Kenny Scharf and Tony Bechara on a most spectacular night.

https://longhouse.org

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