Parisian jewellery designer Anissa Kermiche takes inspiration from everyday objects and situations to create wearable pieces of art that are as bold and quirky as they are sensual and delicate. Since the launch of her first collection in 2016, Anissa continues to challenge the conventions and restrictions of traditional jewellery; her most recent collection in collaboration with Rejina Pyo draws on Alexander Calder‘s iconic mobiles with curved golden lines and hanging pearls. LUX asks Anissa 6 questions.
1. Who do you design for? Describe the Anissa Kermiche woman.
I wouldn’t say that my designs are just segmented to women, there are a lot of men that have worn my pieces before. Men love wearing the Precieux Pubis pendant! If I had one criteria though, it would have to be someone fun! In terms of my female customers, I am inspired by many women around me, women who are funny, successful and independent, it’s not just one. Lately, I have found that many of my customers feed me with inspiring thoughts too.
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2. You originally studied engineering and computer science – what led you to change career paths?
I got into the jewellery world quite late. After 5 years of working as an engineer for a big consultancy firm, I was about to be promoted, but I just couldn’t see myself becoming one of my managers and the lack of creativity made me sad. I then decided to ditch everything to move to London and study jewellery design at Central Saint Martins. I dreamt about creating my own label one day, but I didn’t know that it would be so soon after graduating.
3. As an independent designer, how do you compete with bigger jewellery brands?
Right from the start, I wanted to create jewellery that wasn’t seen anywhere else before. I felt like there was demand for cool, quirky and edgy pieces, but still in precious and fine materials. I have been fortunate enough to work with some of the best known worldwide retailers including Net-a-Porter, MatchesFashion etc. who have provided me with a great platform for my brand.
4. What’s inspiring you at the moment?
Paris has always inspired me, because it is home. When I lived there, I took it for granted, but whenever I go back I get an inspired by everything and spend the journey home sketching. Paris is an open museum, everything has artistic value to me, from the rich architecture to the food to the luxurious boulevards.
5. Can you tell us more about the 3D printing process you use to create your jewellery?
CAD allows me to see the precision in my design, creating attention to detail. It helps me to under-stand the practicality: how to create not only beautiful jewellery but also durable, functional pieces.
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For example, rings and earrings need to be durable and wearable, as they can easily get knocked. CAD allows you to see how heavy an earring will be in advance, so you will know that it will fit comfortable and look beautiful before you make them.
6. We’re very excited about your collaboration with Rejina Pyo. What was the creative process behind that particular collection and do you have any more collaborations in the pipeline?
Thank you! Working with such a talented designer like Rejina Pyo was such an honour. Myself and Rejina were both fond of each other’s work and working together came naturally.
We were both inspired by Alexander Calder’s mobiles and Bertoia, one of my favourite architects, and created pieces that can be worn as wearable art that coincide with both our design aesthetics.