Bulgari Hotel Milan, where you can enjoy the Mediterranean sun from the shade of Il Giardino

Bulgari has become one of the most celebrated luxury city hotel brands, and here we visit their flagship offerings in Milan and Rome

Anyone who is anyone knows that Milan is now the buzzing place in Europe. Yes, the city that previously was known only for its fashion shows and design week, whose residents spent each week planning how to escape for the weekend, is now the place for people too move to, eat in, and show off at.

Milan is still a club, though. People know each other, and it’s social death to be seen in the wrong places. That, dear LUX reader, is why we are taking you to the epicentre of the social scene – or one of them anyway. Specifically, to our dinner table at the Bulgari hotel’s Niko Romito restaurant.

The luxury yet comfortable lobby at Bulgari’s Milan flagship

Situated up a few steps from the circular bar and more casual dining area, swathed in dark light (if that makes sense), you sit here like an Emperor in Europe’s new capital of affluence. Across from us, his back to the banquette, was a well-known fashion elder statesman, who sat happily and purposefully through his piccata, pasta and bottle of Barolo, surveying the scene like a king, his eye never turning to his phone.

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We enjoyed an excellent wine also, from the nearby Alpine Dolomites region, along with some tortelli with ricotta cheese and black pepper beef. The food is brilliant, and B hotels somehow seem even more in their element in their ancestral homeland, more comfortable in their skin.

Speaking about comfort and skin, we had arrived in a state of slight discomfort as LUX had left a company laptop on board the British Airways plane we arrived on a couple of days previously – we had spent the intervening time at the country house of a reader, contacting British Airways and the airport to absolutely no avail – each referred us to the other.

The spa offers guests a retreat in the midst the bustling streets of Milan

On arriving, we had been introduced to the Bulgari hotel Butler, available 24/7 on WhatsApp. The WhatsApp Butler is one of the greatest hotel inventions of recent times, genuinely adding convenience as you don’t need to worry about whether they will pick the phone up, whether they will understand you completely, whether they will note down the details of your requirements and hand them on to the next shift.

More in desperation than hope, we mentioned the laptop situation. “We will look into it straight away sir,” came the response and within half an hour we had a message that they had located the laptop, in an office at the back of the airport, and would we like them to send someone to pick it up?

Perhaps you should expect a luxury hotel concierge to be well connected with an airport but nonetheless the concierge service that was delivered is an enormous asset to the Bulgari.

The Bulgari Bar, a meeting place not only for hotel guests but for in-the-know Milanese

Our room itself was welcomingly quiet, looking over the courtyard garden where the hotel is located. This is an extremely quiet part of central Milan, and only a six minute walk from the golden triangle of luxury shops.

Read more: Inside the Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort

Our suite was beautifully and intensely appointed in that signature Bulgari style, overlooking the courtyard garden. This is not a hotel that looks like any other and you feel like you are in the cossetting arms of a heritage luxury brand.

Room service breakfast was served with a flourish, with lavish extra bits and table decorations. This is a place that’s hard to leave, because, you know, it’s the place to be in the place to be.

Inspired by the Roman baths, the Bulgari Paris’ 25 metre pool is intricately decorated with mosaic of gold, emerald, jade, and malachite

Bulgari Hotel Paris review

If you thought Paris was all about traditional, grand – slightly chintzy – luxury on the one hand, or self-conscious boutique chic that isn’t quite delivering luxury on the other, walking through the doors of the Bulgari Hotel on Avenue George V will rapidly change your mind.

The doormen swing the doors open for you into a glossy dark wood and light marble temple to lavishness. The reception desk, small and understated, is to the left, and a lobby lounge with dim lighting and sweeping luxury is to your right.

The Bulgari Suite is accompanied with views across Paris

Our seventh-floor suite had a terrace half the length of a city block, with views out over the Paris rooftops: the Invalides, and the Bibliotheque Nationale, in the distance. On the marble coffee table was an artfully positioned box of huge Bulgari cigar matches. You know what you are supposed to be doing here.

Read more: How Louis Roederer champagne leads in biodiversity

The suite itself had deep pile-patterned cream carpet, and every detail touch showed that this is the creation of the masters of luxury themselves, Bulgari as owned by LVMH. The box for the creams, the box for the shoe shine, the box for the products you might have left behind – in all these cases, the containers with things you are very tempted to take home and present on a coffee table of your own. (We didn’t).

The Bulgari Hotel Paris’ Penthouse garden offers a natural retreat in the heart of Paris, where you can enjoy views of its landmarks away from the crowds

Presentation is everything in luxury, and the welcome presentation of champagne, chocolates, flowers, and three citrus fruit on three Bulgari plates was too good to touch or eat.

Room service breakfast was even more so; an exhibition of oatmeal, Goji berries, different nuts, seeds, blueberries, blackberries, and strawberries, each one occupying its own dish ranged around the bowl like numbers on a clock face. Tasted good too.

At the Bulgari‘s heart downstairs is Il Ristorante, which looks out a little courtyard garden where you can sit in summer. Our weather was not suitable for terrace dwelling, but we enjoyed a long and indulgent dinner of accompanied by excellent bottle of Barbaresco from Piedmont, the service correctly Italian and perfect.

Il Ristorante, led by three-Michelin-starred Chef Niko Romito

And then there is the location: walk out onto George V and you can walk into the flagship or nearly-flagship boutique of every luxury brand in France and possibly the world. The Champs Elysées is five minutes one way, the Eiffel Tower probably 10 minutes the other (we didn’t go). If you’re there for Art Basel Paris, probably the best art fair in the world,  it’s around an eight minute walk.

Read more: A conversation with Sassan Behnam-Bakhtiar

Luxury reinvented in Paris? Close to it, for sure. The only thing we missed was being able to use our terrace, and a little garden. Paris does doesn’t always play ball with the weather, and even the gods of LVMH can’t change that. Yet.

bulgarihotels.com

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Aerial skyline shot of Milan's Porta Nuova district at sunset
Image of a woman standing in a hotel doorway wearing a long ball gown dress in pale pink

Travel and culture enthusiast and Instagram influencer Tamara Koen

Born in Brazil to Greek parents, travel and culture enthusiast and Instagram influencer Tamara (@tkloves) has lived in Italy and France and loves to visit new places. She’s passionate about architecture, design and fashion, all of which and more, as she tells LUX Editor-At- Large Gauhar Kapparova, can be found in Milan
portrait of LUX Editor at Large Gauhar Kapparova

LUX Editor-at-Large, Gauhar
Kapparova

LUX: What’s the most exciting place in Milan for you and why?
Tamara Koen: The Porta Nuova district is one of the most exciting areas in Milan. It changed the skyline of the city with new skyscrapers and modern buildings, while maintaining a touch of old Milano in the little streets adjacent to it.

Red and cream tote bag by Christian Dior

Dior Tote

LUX: Where do you go to relax?
Tamara Koen: The Four Seasons Spa is one of my favourite places to relax. I also enjoy having tea or a cocktail at the Bulgari Hotel in its beautiful garden in the very centre of the city.

Follow LUX on Instagram: the.official.lux.magazine

Mulitcolour leather by Fendi with additional chain strap

Fendi’s multicolour logo Kan I bag

LUX: What’s the best table at the best restaurant, and what do you eat there?
Tamara Koen: In the fall and winter seasons, I enjoy having dinner at Il Baretto, a restaurant for regular customers. The most-wanted tables are in the cosy smoking room. I would order tagliolini al gratin or riso al salto. In spring and summer, I like eating fish and seafood at the Langosteria Cafè. The room on the left of the restaurant offers better tables. Linguine alle vongole and the granchio alla catalana are two excellent dishes.

Silver and gold cuff of daisies

A cuff from Buccellati’s Blossoms collection

LUX: Are there any emerging designers you recommend (fashion, jewellery, interiors)?
Tamara Koen: I am in love with the feminine style of Johanna Ortiz, Ceccotti’s amazing design pieces and Buccellati’s Blossoms collection, created by Lucrezia Buccellati.

LUX: What are your fashion week tips?
Tamara Koen: Have a map of Milan’s public transport because it may be difficult to find a cab or an Uber. And book your restaurants in advance.

LUX: What about Salone del Mobile?
Tamara Koen: Have long walks in the city centre or in the areas around Via Savona and the Navigli. Do not forget to look at the courtyards, which are a hidden beauty of Milan. And after a long day, enjoy a massage at the hotel!

luxurious hotel lobby with designer furniture

Tamara loves to relax at the Bulgari Hotel

Iconic modernist style curved bench with minimalist features

A chair by iconic furniture brand Ceccotti

LUX: What is the perfect outfit (including accessories) for a night out at La Scala?
Tamara Koen: Nothing too flashy, a little black dress suits perfectly. Bear in mind that Milanese elites are elegant and sober. At the Scala, music, not the audience, is at the centre. Fashionable accessories will suffice.

LUX: Is there somewhere to go out in Milan where you can escape and be casual?
Tamara Koen: Dry Milano has very good pizza and cocktails in a casual atmosphere.

A spa reception decorated with warm woods

The Spa at Four Seasons Milan

LUX: What don’t you like about Milan?
Tamara Koen: The weather and the air pollution.

Read more: Model and musician Rebeca Marcos on self confidence 

LUX: How has the city changed in the years you have been there?
Tamara Koen: Milan has redeveloped and modernised some old neighbourhoods—including but not exclusively, its city centre.

Aerial skyline shot of Milan's Porta Nuova district at sunset

The skyline of Milan’s Porta Nuova district

LUX: What other Instagram accounts should we be following (apart from yours, @tkloves)?
Tamara Koen: @upcloseandstylish and @bycamelia.

LUX: If you could bring one thing to Milan from Brazil, what would it be?
Tamara Koen: The music.

Follow Tamara Koen on Instagram at @tkloves

 

 

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Reading time: 3 min