In the first of our winter season series on luxury hotels in Switzerland, LUX visits luxury gems in Geneva, Zurich and Lucerne, and destinations new and old high in the Alps. First up: the Four Seasons Geneva reviewed
In the world’s great cities there is a certain satisfaction that comes purely from being in the right location. That’s not necessarily the geographical centre of the city – we wouldn’t want to stay on Picadilly Circus in London or Times Square in New York.
There is a physical location in each city that makes you feel that you are both at the heart of things and also looking at the best of where you are. That might be the Place de la Concorde in Paris; or Central by the harbour in Hong Kong.
In Geneva, arriving at the Four Seasons, you know you are exactly where you need to be.
The hotel faces across the point at which the banana shape of Lake Geneva, which extends east all the way into the Alps, contracts into the upper mouth of the river rhone, which then flows down through France all the way to the Mediterranean. Facing you across the waters is the old town of Geneva, above which rise the Alps and, on a clear day, the mighty Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Western Europe, towering over you with its dome of snow year round.
The feeling that you have arrived, with a capital A is emphasised by the greetings of the seemingly endless procession of staff as you come in, who magically know your name as they open the door for the first time. Four Seasons service at its best.
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Our room, a junior suite, looked out over the lakefront embankment to the view; it had a lavish marble bathroom and a vibe that business leaders and aristocrats have been staying there for decades, if not longer. Even before Four Seasons took it over, the hotel was the city’s premier address.
Particularly attractive is that the embankment in front of the hotel is now pedestrianised, with the exception of cars to and from the hotel, meaning you don’t have to brave or hear the traffic between the hotel and the water.
Every city luxury hotel now needs to do so much more than provide comfortable rooms, a bar and restaurants and business efficiency. And while this Grand Dame of a building would not immediately be one that you associate with an urban resort, that is exactly what it is.
Take the elevator to the top floor, wander down the corridor into the spa and up a staircase and you are at Izumi, a funky rooftop Japanese restaurant spread across two very casual, relaxing floors.
We visited in the cold season, but nonetheless on the roof there was a marquee with a pop-up Shabu-Shabu restaurant; all around it, in summer, the terrace becomes a lively cocktail bar with – an astonishing 360° view, across the city and lake to the Alps on one side, and to the mountains on the other. A special place, and on our evening, we headed downstairs to the light and vibey Izumi for a magnificent meal.
To start with, the hotel’s own all Chardonnay champagne, light, floral, rounded and so delicious that we decided to keep with it to match the meal. We loved the Jalapeño Karashi Miso, Quinoa Salsa, Sorrel Cress Chu Toro, the Black Cod tapas with Jalepeño miso, and the Tatsuta-age baby chicken.
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On our second night, we headed down to the bar, unusually in a light and airy salon-type room on the ground floor. This is a cocktail bar at its best – although it’s so popular you have to book – with slick service and some celebrated cocktails; and also a thorough bar menu, for an excellent evening with no need for dinner.
Almost equally memorable was breakfast, which took place at the Il Lago, usually the hotel’s gourmet Italian restaurant. This was a perfect combination of an extremely high-quality buffet with excellent à la carte options.
Later that morning, we headed back up to the top floor to the spa where we had a very smartly devised Alpina Aroma massage.
Altogether very special, and you could also almost forget that you are actually in the centre of a historic European city with plenty of attractions all around, and of course the winter sports destinations of the Alps literally within sight. If you are flying to your skiing holiday via Geneva, a couple of nights at the Four Seasons, could be a lot more relaxing than activities and partying on the slopes above.
