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The Mont Cervin Palace coated in a layer of snow

The high resort of Zermatt, ringed by 4000m peaks covered with eternal snow, is home to one of the original luxury hotels in the Alps, the Mont-Cervin Palace. It also houses a hotel with one of the best views in the world: the Beausite

Mont Cervin Palace, Zermatt review

The Mont Cervin Palace is the grande dame of hotels in what is arguably the most elegant mountain-resort in the Alps. You are picked up from the station in a horse-drawn carriage and the world looks at you and smiles as you clap your way up the short distance along the High Street, past Zermatt’s unique mix of stores selling serious hiking equipment – this is still a centre of operations for hard-core climbers – and luxury watches.

The Matterhorn as seen from the Mont Cervin Palace in the heart of Zermatt

The Acacia, on walking in, has that inevitable standard of luxury only possible in Swiss hotels – that’s why they have all the hotel schools here. You don’t walk to your room; you are flowed there in a process of effortless and knowledgeable meet and greets.

Our room itself was a magnificent little suite, directly facing the Matterhorn with a south facing terrace. Look to your right and you can see the passeggiata along the traffic-free main street (Zermatt has never allowed cars), which morphs from a procession of serious climbers before dawn, to families in the early morning, the young and chic in the late morning, and absolutely everyone in the evenings when it gets quite lively down the road.

A comfortable suite in the Mont Cervin, many of which offer magnificent views of the surrounding Alps

Cuisine is a central part of the hotel’s offering and the place to dine is the Grill Le Cervin, a traditional, glam-cosy vibed restaurant in the heart of the hotel. Local lamb rack with peas, green asparagus, pommes fondant and mint; Swiss Grand Cru beef fillet; all tasted vibrant, fresh, real.

‘Cuisine is a central part of the hotel’s offering and the place to dine is the Grill Le Cervin’

This is a hotel of many parts. A short walk down a corridor leads to a major surprise, a full-size indoor swimming pool with a secret garden in which you can sunbathe in summer and tramp through the snow before jumping into the outdoor jacuzzi in winter. There is a spa and plenty of places to lie down and relax after a hard day’s hiking or watch shopping; plus amply spaced table tennis and pool tables.

The spa of Mont Cervin Palace is just one of its many luxurious offerings

As the original luxury hotel in the original summer and winter resort in the Alps, recently taken over by the brilliant Michel Reybier and brought back up to its original elegance in class, there is nothing else quite like it. Oh, and we forgot to mention the cigar lounge, one of Europe’s finest… Enjoy your Montecristo there or sneak one onto your balcony – as we did – and look at the nighttime view of the shimmering Matterhorn.

montcervinpalace.com

Beausite, Zermatt Review

The resort of Zermatt, in Switzerland, has many attractions in summer and winter; frequent visitors to this chi-chi little town will agree that the most prominent of these is the Matterhorn, the celebrity mountain that towers over the valley.

The facade of the luxury hotel Beausite, Zermatt

It logically follows that a room with a view of the Matterhorn is going to be high on the list of priorities when visiting, and we can’t think of any room with a better view than the top floor corner suite in the Beausite.

Its position above the eastern shores of the Zermatt river offer the Beausite unique views

A little history: as the town developed from a farming hamlet to the global star it is today, hotels started springing up along the main street leading from the station to the church, on the right bank of the river, near the medieval huts at the village’s heart – this has been an active community for more than 1000 years.

But then just over 100 years ago someone had the idea to build a luxury hotel on a grassy knoll on the other side of the river, when there was very little there, simply because it’s elevated position would give it spectacular views of the mountain.

The outdoor pool and jacuzzi at Beausite are surrounded by breathtaking views of the Alps

Fast forward to now, and you can lie in the outdoor pool/jacuzzi at the Beausite and have uninterrupted views of the iconic rocky edifice, while still being only a couple of minutes’ walk from the resort centre.

The view from the suite was even better, so breathtaking that you would be forgiven for spending a whole day just gazing at the mountain as it changes colour, its rocks and snows reflecting the passage of cloud and times of day.

Beausite, idyllic in the snow

The suite itself is smart contemporary chic, glacier blues and 20^th century modern chairs, with plenty of light and light wood.

The hotel, previously a little old-fashioned, has had a thorough and sympathetic recent refurbishment and redesign, and we loved the bar and snooker room on the ground floor, and the vibe on the terrace – also with the same view – which is thoroughly modern luxury.

It lives up to its name, and more.

beausitezermatt.com

Heinz E. Hunkeler, the manager of Kulm Hotel, photographed by Konstantin Arnold

German writer Konstantin Arnold offers a glimpse behind the scenes at the iconic Kulm Hotel in St. Moritz. Through his (groggy) encounter with longtime Kulm Hotel manager Heinz E. Hunkeler, Arnold reflects on the delicate balance of tradition, change, and the quiet rituals that keep great hotels – and their guests – running smoothly

The morning after a long night, I met Kulm Hotel manager Heinz E. Hunkeler. Naturally, I was late – it wasn’t exactly the next morning, but rather three hours later. He didn’t take offence at this, behaving with the diplomacy and courtesy of a hotel manager who’s now part of my story. ‘No problem,’ he said, ‘I had some things to attend to anyway.’ He asked how my evening had been, and I told him it had been fantastic. He remarked that it couldn’t have been too crazy a night. He had all the numbers in his head, after all. The big spenders hadn’t been there – how could they have? I joked that I’d drunk like one but hadn’t paid anything. I laughed, and then he laughed, too.

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The first thing Heinz does in the morning is look at the figures – how many bottles of Dom Pérignon went to which room and at what time. You might have to apologise to your room neighbours. Heinz knows the truth before he even wants to. I mean, the guy had already been out swimming at six o’clock today. He wore a wonderful blue pinstriped suit in the morning light and sat with the same grand posture as he did in the armchair in his lobby. At one point, we had to move because the sun was shining too much in Heinz’s face. He was a good storyteller and spoke in simple and beautiful phrases with a charming Swiss accent. This was lucky since I wasn’t quite up to talking yet, and it was a pleasure to see how naturally he moved around the room.

Heinz E. Hunkeler photographed in his Kulm Hotel by Konstantin Arnold

Heinz E. Hunkeler – a hotelier shaping the future with tradition

Heinz grew up in Kulm. As a child, he played football in the indoor pool between seasons. Today, he and his wife are a true hotelier couple, who still live here. It’s a rarity these days. We talked a bit about the power of routines and the fact that there is a lot of work behind all the apparent ease. If you ask yourself in the morning what you’ll eat, wear, and do, you’ve already wasted precious time thinking. The most important skill of a hotel manager, however, is to make you the most important person in the world for the moment you spend with them. As soon as they walk out the door, you might be forgotten, but that doesn’t matter. Heinz’s job is to lead this hotel into the next century, so that the world of yesterday will still exist tomorrow, and his guests won’t stray. He even tolerates pizza boxes in the corridors. He has hired staff to cater for the trends of our time.

Read more: Six of the best hotels in Scotland reviewed

 Tradition, change, and the value of good staff

Some people say he’s conservative; after all, Heinz likes to go hunting, so he doesn’t forget how to do his own shopping. Why do people always say that as if it were a bad thing? Time passes in cycles because people tolerate its passing better that way. The cultural manifestation of these cycles is called fashion, and its melancholy revival is called nostalgia. The point is to illuminate things and distill their constant repetition down to an essence that becomes eternal for a moment. Nothing lasts forever. Not even Angelo and Fabio. The turnover can be hard to bear. Many guests come not least because of the staff. Good employees are hard to find and hold onto. That’s why they have just renovated the staff accommodation for 25 million. In the past, Heinz says, there were shared rooms; today, there’s a gym, down duvets, compensation days, and chia seeds.

The lobby lounge at Kulm Hotel, photographed by Konstantin Arnold

Reflections in the Kulm lobby

After the meeting with Heinz, I walked around the hotel for a while, still exhausted. You always think, ‘it’s over now,’ but it wasn’t. I settled into the lobby, its comfort almost unbearable without sleep. I nodded off, with the wall behind me and the world in view. Once again, I was struck by the beauty of these chairs. You notice them the first time, but you don’t realise how much they struck you. They’re colourful and have women’s faces in gold at the end of the armrests, which you can stroke as you sit down. Some of the women who came by looked remarkably similar. If you spend half the day there and you don’t have any inhibitions, you’ll meet all sorts of fascinating characters throughout the day: opera singers undergoing proton cancer treatment, people who sell bread and jewels in the same store, and friendly Slovenian waiters. It is the true living room of St. Moritz. The lobby at Badrutt’s is too hectic, too many people who are obliged to be there – the usual few days a year: say hi, play the game, leave. The one at Suvretta is too big to be truly cozy, though at least you can smoke at the bar.

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So, what does the Kulm mean to me now? Tweeds and the lobby. Cornelius, the concierge. Angelo, the sommelier at the Dracula and breakfast room. A Portuguese woman walking down the lobby in a white ski dress, her brown hair tied up, gold earrings glinting. And what else? Andrea at the country club and the Slovenian waiter who always liked to talk to me when I was sitting here, the Russian aristocrat who skated every day and sipped tea in the lobby. But definitely Heinz E. Hunkeler, who likes to go hunting and whom I saw many times that day, talking and sitting with various guests until dusk fell. I have no idea how he manages it all.

Konstantin Arnold

kulm.com

The W Deck, where you can enjoy 360 degree views of the city

We review the W Edinburgh, the Balmoral Edinburgh, Rusacks St Andrews, the Fairmont St Andrews, the Caledonian Edinburgh, and Crossbasket Castle, near Glasgow. They are all highlights of any itinerary in Scotland

W Edinburgh Review

Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital, is a historic city. Traditionally, when you wanted to stay in style, you stayed in a historic hotel.

So how refreshing it was to check in into the W Edinburgh, the first W hotel in Scotland. Located in New Town, the historic heart of the city, the new build looks like a spaceship has landed – or at least it has been transplanted from a futuristic city like Astana or Shenzhen.

This is no bad thing as the architecture is stunning, sympathetic, and well thought through. The hotel connects internally with the city’s best luxury shopping mall, and externally it is a few steps away from Princes Street, and a few minutes walk from the Royal Mile, the castle and other sites.

‘The new build looks like a spaceship has landed – or at least it has been transplanted from a futuristic city like Astana or Shenzhen’

Whizz up to the rooftop and you can wander around in a full circle, having a never-seen-before view in 360 degrees around the city. To one side, Arthur’s Seat, the rugged mountainside that impinges into the city itself; to the other the castle on its hill. The rest of the city spreads out to the west with the highlands in the far distance and the Firth of Forth (the sea) shortly before. The restaurant and bar on this floor – the W Lounge – is unmatched for beauty and the modern Scottish cuisine is vibrant, searingly focused, confident, and unfussy.

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LUX had one of the suites in the hotel which feature a huge living area and an even bigger terrace balcony on which you could hold a party for 80 people – not that we did, but on those long summer evenings it would be quite a location.

A luxury studio suite at the W Edinburgh

Inside we loved the dramatic views from the living area, separated by a partition wall from the sleeping area, separated by another partition wall from the huge wet room bathroom, with the same glass wall to the exterior wrapped around all of them. This is a completely new take on Edinburgh.

Being a W, service is slick, international, and efficient. Room service whizzed up and down with a beaming smile and none of the gritted teeth reluctance you occasionally still get in this former Empire city. From the outside, the W is an architectural beacon, albeit a controversial one, given the contrast with its surroundings – although we love the architecture ourselves.

But from the inside, its use of glass and its curves integrates into the city beautifully. Just make sure you have a couple of cocktails in the rooftop speakeasy, hidden away, before heading for dinner. 

wedinburgh.com

The view of Balmoral hotel from nearby in Princes St Gardens

The Balmoral Hotel, Edinburgh Review

There is no hotel in Britain quite like the Balmoral. On the one hand, its convenience to Edinburgh’s main train station – it is essentially part of the British Empire building complex – makes it feel almost too easy to get to. But this is a grand hotel that has held its glories for more than 100 years, currently under the custodianship of Sir Rocco Forte and his eponymous hotel group, which creates some of the most thoughtfully luxurious hotels in Europe.

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Everything inside is tastefully modernised, without being in-your-face contemporary. We were greeted warmly and formally in the high-ceilinged lobby area and taken up to our suite, which was on the corner with perhaps the most dramatic historic view in Scotland, facing the castle on its hill, lit up almost eerily at night.

The J.K. Rowling Suite at Balmoral

You could just sit at the dining table in the corner sipping tea or single malt and not need any other tour of Edinburgh. The bedroom, meanwhile, was cosy and quiet – many city centre hotels are not – and the bathroom, laced with marble, set up for an evening’s indulgence after a hard day pounding the pavements and looking at the Scotland’s capital.

You stay at the Balmoral because of the name and the history, but it also delivers. It might be unusual to write about breakfast before reviewing a dinner, but the breakfast at the Balmoral does not just pay lip service to the traditional Scottish breakfast (generally considered to be the peak of what may be known internationally as a full English), it takes it to a different level.

Dining at the Balmoral Number One

Our particular favourite was different varieties of salmon, hot smoked, gravadlax, traditional smoked, freshly carved from their respective sides, with a variety of breads, including the obligatory soda bread, sitting hopefully beside them.

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You could choose from many other dishes as well, including another Scottish and British Empire staple, kedgeree, and kippers. People write about the bounties of breakfast in luxury hotels in Asia, but this is a cuisine just as distinctive (for breakfast anyway) and just as bountiful. If we were passing through Edinburgh, we would stop over for breakfast.

The bar at Balmoral features an extensive scotch and whiskey selection

This should not take away from our experience the previous evening, where we had Negronis in the very slick and contemporary bar followed by a dinner at Brasserie Prince – highlights included wild garlic saucisson with celeriac remoulade, Scottish oysters with Champagne gel and crabe aux agrumes.

Rocco Forte built this new hotel group  after the much bigger group set up by his father was wrested from his control in the 1990s. Rocco once told LUX he intended to create a distinctive luxurious, and individualistic collection of hotels, each with the character of the place they were situated in. Charles Forte, Rocco’s father, came to Britain from Southern Italy and he set up his first businesses in Scotland: from the pride and sense of place, it feels that the Balmoral is more than simply hotel, it is a proud trophy and sort of homecoming. We raise a glass to that.

thebalmoralhotel.com

Rusacks hotel in St Andrews, known as the home of golf

Rusacks, St Andrews Review

For anyone interested in golf, we are told the most iconic view in the world is that of the Swilcan bridge between the first and 18th fairways at the Old Course in St Andrews, Scotland, known as the home of golf.  

And there is just one hotel from which you can see this clearly and crisply from your room, and we were sitting in it, gazing out over the course, the clubhouse, and the sea beyond. 

The Rusacks St Andrews hotel has a unique and utterly desirable location. Overlooking the legendary part (the world’s most celebrated golf course) it is also perfectly positioned for a little stroll into the town – St Andrews is technically a city but you would be forgiven for thinking it was a village, so boutique and ancient it is – and so suits golfers and non-golfers alike. 

You enter the Rusacks from the land side, so to speak, greeted by a classical contemporary high ceilinged reception and lobby area.

A king bedroom in Rusack’s classic yet tasteful style

We were then taken up to our room in a new wing of the hotel, seamlessly joined to the old wing. From there the big windows afford views over the golf course, yes, but also over to the beaches of West Sands, made famous by the movie Chariots of Fire, the sea and beyond to the Scottish Highlands. It’s a pretty spectacular place. 

The rooms have been perfectly judged with hints of Scottish tradition combined with real contemporary style, so you don’t feel hidebound. 

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St Andrews is a place of paradox really: on the one hand, it is a tiny place at the end of the road on the East Coast of Scotland. On the other hand, it is an international centre of culture and learning, attracting top level students from around the world. It was also where Britain’s Prince William met his bride to be Kate Middleton, and its golf courses attract the creme de la creme of those passionate about the sport from around the world. So there are a few very attractive bars and restaurants to frequent, all with real character.  

The dining room at Rusacks hotel in St Andrews

But, you would be forgiven for instead repairing every evening upstairs at the hotel rooftop restaurant and bar. In the summer months you can set or stand on a terrace open to the views and the sea. But even in the dark months of winter, this glass enclosed space feels airy and attractive, where you can have top level cocktails in the bar before sliding along to the contemporary Scottish steak and fish restaurant, 18, where we had an utterly superb and very local feeling meal. The standout feature was a locally-sourced Angus sirloin, cooked to perfection at high temperatures and rare inside. 

What we also enjoyed about the Rusacks is it relative intimacy. It’s not a massive hotel, but big enough to have its different zones, the rooftop, and extensive downstairs lobby area, and the new wing where our room was located.  

It feels personal without feeling too boutique, and the combination of rooms, dining, bar, service, view and location are really quite unmatched. The LUX party staying at the hotel are not golfers and yet we enjoyed it immensely – if you do play, or are simply interested in watching players from your ringside view, there can be no better place. 

rusacksstandrews.com

The sprawling lawns of Fairmont Hotel, St Andrews

Fairmont St Andrews Review

Scotland is one of the world’s top destinations for discerning visitors with good reason: it has spectacular scenery, clean air, huge history and culture, and a wealth of ingredients for great cuisine – as well as whisky and golf.

What is perhaps less known is that it also has an international standard resort hotel of the type you would find in Asia or the Caribbean, in which you can combine all of these elements into a single experience.

The Fairmont St Andrews is not quite in the town of St Andrews, on Scotland’s East Coast, and is all the better for it. It sits on a cliff top around a five minutes drive out of town, just above the East Coast Fife Coastal Path which for good reason attracts people from around the world for its combination of savage beauty and wild flowers and plants.

You access the Fairmont along a driveway through extensive lawns, the other side of which sits its own, internationally celebrated golf course, part of the circuit that devoted golfers around the world come here to visit. The resort itself has the spectacular grandeur you would expect from a North American hotel group: a multifloor lobby atrium around which are arranged shops, restaurants and bars.

A deluxe suite at the Fairmont Hotel in St Andrews

Our suite was accessed at the end of a corridor leading off from this atrium, and looked out over lush lawns, copses of woodland, and the edge of the golf course. Before dinner, we wandered out and quickly found ourselves on a lushly vegetated hillside edge leading down to the coastal path, overlooking the stony beaches and the sea. It is a spectacular, end of the world type of feeling.

Double back inside, though, and you are in the midst of a cocoon of luxury. Our dinner at the lively restaurant, The Squire, in the heart of the atrium, was vibrant and busy. We were surrounded by golf parties delighted to have finished their day and local family groups.

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The next morning, two of our party were given a golf lesson on the edge of the celebrated course by an extremely patient pro who happily tolerated various swings and roundabouts until a few drives were sweetly hit.

To be given a golf lesson at the home of golf is like learning tennis at Wimbledon, and the views and the sea matched the quality of the tuition. The Fairmont is above the sea, so a bracing walk at lunchtime involves touring the grounds with views cropping up in every direction, both inland towards the Scottish Highlands and out down the coastal path and the sea.

The fireside lobby at the Fairmont gives a warm welcome to guests

After lunch we took a walk down the path itself. Keen walkers can continue all the way to the artistic cluster of villages around Crail, home to painters for many decades, and the hotel will organise a car to pick you up and take you back. The luxury is to be able to walk along the coastal path for as long or little as you wish, although it should be noted that this is a proper wild walk and you will need real equipment.

And once you have done all that, it is just a five minute drive in the hotel car to St Andrews where you can visit the castle, the ruins of the historic abbey, the cute streets teeming with international students, an excellent bookshop, superb wine shops and whisky emporia. If you walk back, beware: on the winding coastal path, what was a five minute drive takes more than an hour with plenty of ups and downs and scrambling.

Fairmont is as much of a resort destination as anything we can think of. And a reminder that St Andrews is on the drier East Coast of Scotland rather than the even wilder and wetter West Coast, so you may well be in luck with the weather. And even if not, there is the extensive indoor pool and spa area to check out. Good health. 

fairmontstandrews.com

A street view of Edinburgh’s luxury hotel The Caledonian

The Caledonian, Edinburgh Review

Princes Street is the celebrated and unique road at the heart of Edinburgh, unlike any other street in the world. To one side are the formidable Empire Era buildings at the edge of New Town, the city’s wealthiest historic district. On the other side, the land falls into a long set of gardens lining the street, and then rises up dramatically, in a rocky bluff topped by Edinburgh’s famous castle. Walk the length of Princes Street from east to west, and one building marks the end of the gardens, on a corner overlooking both castle and greenery.

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This is the Caledonian hotel, affectionately known by locals as the Caley, a landmark that has stood since the times when the Scots helped the English build the Empire on which the sun never set. 

The lobby of The Caledonian, where ‘its grandeur and scale have been skilfully reset for the modern era’

The Caley has no imperial ambitions now, but its grandeur and scale have been skilfully reset for the modern era: a bubbly and efficient receptionist and concierge got us to our room overlooking the castle, almost face-to-face with it, so we could peer inside and wonder if there were any stray princesses locked up for turning down the advances of a visiting royal from France or Aragon. (We couldn’t see any).

But the real attraction of the Caledonian, apart from its peerless location, is the restaurant bar experience, in a huge conservatory built between the two wings of the hotel, where some excellent early evening Negronis merged into a pre-dinner glass of champagne, and then a dinner of baked crapadaune beetroot followed by roast cod loin with pancetta, white bean, lime and Jerusalem artichoke. 

It was enchanting watching daytime turn to evening and evening to night as this place, so evidently the social heart of the area, hosted more locals than tourists – always a positive sign that a hotel is alive and real, rather than just catering for visitors. 

The Sir Walter Scott Room at The Caledonian

And a special mention to the concierge who were knowledgeable not just about the tourist attractions of the city, as one would expect them to be, but also how different parts of Edinburgh have emerged from relative poverty to become edgy and artistic zones, guiding us to creative spots in each.  

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Real local knowledge, as suits an institution in the heart of the city. The Caledonian feels like a place you could treat as a home in Edinburgh, as much as just visit as a tourist. To achieve that kind of comfort within the context of a five-star hotel with international standards is quite something, and we applaud it.   

thecaledonianhotel.com 

The bar at Trocadero’s, Crossbasket’s cabaret restaurant and bar

Crossbasket Castle, Glasgow Review

Standing in the lush grounds of Crossbasket Castle, overlooking monkey puzzle trees, cherry trees, Scots pines and a variety of other plantations, you are transported straight back to baronial times. While you feel you are really in the middle of the wilderness, you have to tap yourself on the shoulder to remember that this place is not quite what it seems: it is rather more than that.

For one, it is just outside the edge of Glasgow city limits, 20 minutes from both the airport and the main train station, despite its pastoral setting and the drama of the river gorge that runs directly through the middle of the property. You may walk along the gorge and sniff the wild chives and marvel at the moss and general wilderness, but you haven’t had to endure a massive journey to get here. 

And the grand old castle house is just part of the offering; look across the ground and you will see a tasteful and contemporary low rise set of buildings housing the new rooms, restaurants, and a spa opening later this year.

A deluxe double suite at Crossbasket Castle

The surprises don’t finish there. You are greeted by service of the highest international standard – by which we mean not the slightly grumpy demeanour you get in some Scottish baronial hotels, but the service offered by Inverlochy Castle Management International, which owns the celebrated Highland hotel of the same name and manages this property.  

They are used to Asian and American billionaires, and your service here is a match for anything you might find in Switzerland or the South of France. 

All well and good, but the real surprise happens behind reception, where the hotel’s main restaurant, Trocadero’s, turns out to be not just another nice newly built contemporary restaurant but a proper cabaret restaurant and bar. By proper, we mean you walk in and are wowed by the contemporary take on 20th century Modern and Art Deco design, with perfect lighting and a buzzing bar. You are then wafted down a small set of steps to the main floor where jazz and soul bands perform every day, and dancers who look like they have just been transplanted from the Lido in Paris perform around the tables.  

It’s quite something, given the baronial quietude of the grounds you might have been walking around earlier.  

A cabaret performer at Trocadero’s

But don’t think that the cabaret vibe provides an excuse for low standards of cuisine: the oysters, fresh in from near Oban three times a week, are both superbly sourced and dressed, and our ribeye steak with local greens was beautiful.   

This group is used to operating Michelin starred restaurants in its other locations, and the physically huge menus, an Art Deco style, offer an array of dishes and, more importantly, ingredients to delight you. The desert trolley was a welcome hawk back to jazzier times. 

Meanwhile, you can enjoy the theatre of cocktails at the bar, facing the stage, or order from an original and thoughtful wine list, again matching the gastronomic standards for which this group is known. We enjoyed a balanced California Chardonnay, excellent Serbian Merlot and a focused red Burgundy by the glass. 

Our suite, meanwhile, in the new part of the hotel, was beautifully finished with the highest quality wood and brass; it had a big terrace with a view out over the woods, and plenty of thoughtful details. When the spa opens later this year this may well be the hottest hotel in Scotland.  

You heard it here first.

crossbasketcastle.com

LUX’s personalised Aston Martin Valhalla, created in their factory and projected along the coastline (image generated by computer)

LUX travels to the Aston Martin factory to personalise our new Valhalla, the company’s million-dollar hypercar, with its Q bespoking operation; and then we review the Aston Martin Vantage Volante

What’s in a name? Well, quite a lot actually, if you’re spending a million pounds/dollars/euros on a car. Would you rather have a car named after a piece of software, or one named after a majestic hall for Viking gods presided over by Odin himself? Well, quite.

We won’t dwell here on the million dollar car that sounds like software, although we can confirm we have driven it and it is an extremely fast, brilliantly engineered machine. But as for the Aston Martin Valhalla, this is the sister car to the equally dramatically-named Valkyrie, and if it’s anything like as monumental as its name, the Valhalla promises to be quite a machine.

‘If it’s anything like as monumental as its name, the Valhalla promises to be quite a machine’ (image generated by computer)

(A note: LUX has also been in the Valkyrie, which is even more expensive than the Valhalla and comes with its own set of internal comms headphones as its V12 engine is so loud that the driver and passenger can’t hear each other otherwise. The best way of getting in is by suspending a children’s slide over its open cockpit, and we haven’t quite worked out the best way of getting out, but being inside it is a lot of fun).

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As we made our way to Aston Martin’s factory in Gaydon, England, we pondered that the Valhalla had a lot to live up to. What if the car didn’t cash the cheques written by the name?

We needn’t have worried. Seeing a pre-production Valhalla in the metal and being shown around it by Ondrej Jirec, Exterior Design Manager of the project, was quite breathtaking. The Valhalla is not quite as spaceship crazy as the Valkyrie – a good thing, probably – but it’s still one of the most striking cars on the road.

Hosted by Ondrej Jirec, LUX previewed the Valhalla’s pre-production, personalising the company car (image generated by computer)

Jirec emphasised the organic shape of the Valhalla, how engineering, technology and aesthetic fuse, and how it is a car not just to look at, but to be driven. The petrol engine (there are also three electric motors) is behind the cockpit and even the exhaust pod looks like sculpture.

We also loved the interior – more practical than the Valkyrie but still feeling very hypercar special. It’s clear Aston Martin intends the 999 Valhallas it is planning to build to be driven properly.

On we went from the pre-production car itself, to the Q studio with a screen the size of a large wall, where we were to configure the LUX Valhalla. For the purposes of drama, we went with the colour scheme shown here, a burnt metallic orange with swathes of electric suede inside. With Q, you can bespoke to your heart’s content, although we were told we couldn’t turn the exhaust sculpture into a machine gun turret. Personalisation has its limits.

‘This kind of car – with an actual engine, and real drama – won’t be around for that much longer’ (image generated by computer)

Had it been our private car, we would have gone for an old-Aston colour, a solid blue-green, with an interior somewhere between cream and pumice. It wouldn’t have looked so good in the pictures, but in real life it would have been the ancestor of every classy DB5 Volante we’ve ever seen.

Read more: Binith Shah and Maria Sukkar on UMŌ’s ultimate luxury 

And what’s it like to drive? Our car is still being assembled, as Valhallas haven’t been delivered to customers yet. But we did spend a few days in Aston Martin’s “entry level” offering – a relative term, like an entry level Michelangelo – the Vantage Volante, and our impressions are below. The Valhalla, meanwhile, has more than 1000 horsepower and will get from zero to 100 mph faster than a Norse god escaping a furious goddess who has just found out he has been playing around with a Valkyrie. Whether yours is in outlandish bespoke orange, or a solid green blue, enjoy. This kind of car – with an actual engine, and real drama – won’t be around for that much longer.

The beautifully ‘old-fashioned’ Aston Martin Vantage (image generated by computer)

Aston Martin Vantage review

When something is described as old-fashioned, what does it mean to you? Until recently, it was a pejorative term meaning out of date, unsophisticated, or behind the curve.

Now, however, old-fashioned has undergone its own revival. Vinyl records? Not only old-fashioned, but purveying far better sound quality than a song on Spotify. Vintage clothes? Music from the 80s and 90s? Life without social media? Old-fashioned, yes, but in some cases more desirable than what we have now.

This applies to cars. You won’t see too many enthusiasts at an electric car meeting, even if electric cars are swifter and more advanced than previous models. And old-fashioned is the first phrase we would like to apply to the new Aston Martin Vantage – as a compliment.

‘This is a car made not just for beauty or speed, but for fun’ (image generated by computer)

But, we emphasise, this is not just because it is not an electric car. Super sports cars and supercars, made for enjoyment and show rather than practicality, have undergone their own evolution quite irrespective of the electric car revolution.

Until the end of the 1990s, every supercar was, to a greater or lesser extent, fun to drive, even if many of them were so severely flawed that if you were to attempt to undertake a proper journey in them you might be left yearning to swap into a standard family saloon.

Read more: Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann on the watch industry

They were loud, uncomfortable and most had more power, particularly when it was wet, than their structures could cope with. Great when you’re trying to have a bit of (old-fashioned) fun, but pretty undesirable not to mention dangerous otherwise.

The inside displays Aston Martin’s characteristic attention to detail in design (image generated by computer)

Then, computer technology and electronic advances meant that in this century, supercars not only got much faster thanks to ever more powerful petrol engines, but they also became a lot safer. Put an idiot in a 1990s supercar and soon the idiot would either no longer exist or need to undergo some significant hospital treatment. By 2010, the same idiot could drive a much faster car and keep everything together.

But this came at the expense of that old-fashioned value: fun. For a time, some of the world’s fastest and most exciting to look at cars were also rather dull and clinical to drive, particularly at practical speeds on the road.

And this brings us to the new Aston Martin Vantage. It certainly looks the business: beautiful, imposing, not too huge, dramatic while remaining stylish rather than show-off.

‘The whole car has been engineered for feel rather than just speed’ (image generated by computer)

And from the first corner you navigate, you realise this is a car made not just for beauty or speed, but for fun.

On winding country roads, the thing is both brilliant and exciting. You feel the weight transfer from the front to the middle to the back of the car as you power through corners, encouraging you to do the same again and again.

Read more: Simon de Pury interviews Olafur Eliasson

If you get extremely enthusiastic, you can feel the back of the car wanting to kick itself outwards which in a genuinely old-fashioned car could be lethal, as if you are not an expert driver you would perform a 360° spin. In this car though, the electronic helpers are still there – it’s just that they allow you to have fun, and the whole car has been engineered for feel rather than just speed.

‘The new supercar that is old-fashioned in only one way, the best possible: it just wants to have fun’ (image generated by computer)

The engine is a beauty, also. It’s old-fashioned in one sense, having no hybrid electric motor to help it along. Aston Martin engineers have given the engine (development of one found in Mercedes AMG supercars) real oral character and a hard-edged feeling suitable to a junior supercar like this. It’s a fabulous sound, and it’s always there.

The Aston Martin rides firmly. Don’t buy this car if you’re expecting a limousine, and don’t buy it if all you want to do is make gentle runs to your country home. There are cars that do both of those better. Instead, it is a brilliantly balanced, highly capable, highly exciting and very stylish – inside and out – new supercar that is old-fashioned in only one way, the best possible: it just wants to have fun. And isn’t that what a supercar is for?

astonmartin.com

‘Not For Them’ founder Marcarson photographed in his studio by Charles Roussel

Founding ‘Not For Them’ in 2016, New York City artist Marcarson has created a space which eludes distinctions between art, fashion, and design. LUX Contributing Editor Maryam Eisler speaks to Marcarson about his beginnings in LA, art responsibility, and voyeurism

Maryam Eisler: Who is Marcarson?

Mark Carson: Marcarson is an entity occupying a body.

ME: What was the environment like when you were growing up? How did it influence the way you see the world today?

MC: Very religious and a little dangerous during those times in Southeast Los Angeles.

‘Alive With Pleasure’, oil on canvas, 2019

ME: Can you remember the first moment or experience when you realised you wanted to become an artist? Was there a specific event or person who sparked that desire?

Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine

MC: It was 2016. I would watch my son during the day. During a routine monthly visit from the exterminator he saw that I had made 3 pieces, he enjoyed them and asked to take a photo to show his wife. I see him again the next month and his wife wants to speak with me. She tells me she works for Banksy’s pest control and the artwork I’m making is exciting and I should continue with it. She also tells me to get classes to learn to paint but I didn’t go that far.

ME: If your art could speak, what would it say about you?

MC: Buckle up with this one.

Marcarson’s fashion design under the studio ‘Not For Them’, photographed by Maryam Eisler in Soho New York City

ME: What’s the most unusual or unexpected experience you’ve had while creating art?

MC: I don’t think I’ve had any… yet.

ME: You also write – does your writing inform your art and vice versa?

MC: The truth is I don’t write. I enjoy photojournalism, voyeurism…

ME: Tell me about life and work in Brooklyn.

MC: I hardly leave my place.

Marcarson’s Brooklyn studio view with ‘Brunch Series’ (2025) photographed by Charles Roussel

ME: How has fatherhood informed your art?

MC: Laeth is my go-to for when I need someone to tell me if my work is shit or not. Children can be soul crushing with opinions.

Read more: A conversation with artist Enoc Perez

ME: If you had to create a piece of art based on a memory, what memory would you choose, and how would you represent it visually?

MC: There’s a memory of my mother’s memory, in which I’m biting the hand of a preacher trying to pray for me when I was a toddler. I would make it into a stained-glass window for churches.

Marcarson’s ‘Fabric Wash’ (2024) in collaboration with Catherine Walsh, photographed by Maryam Eisler in Soho New York City

ME: Is there a piece of your own work that you’ve struggled with the most, and why? Do you still think about it?

MC: There is one piece I wish I never let go. I’m still figuring out how to get it back.

Read more: Hotel reviews: Whatley Manor, Ca’ di Dio, and Westin Valencia

ME: Your art can be tough to experience at times. Entangled, bordering hostile. Explain that to me.

MC: This is a good one. I’ve started to notice that there are two styles of my art: one is cheeky, dark humour, poking fun at society, and the other is a result from love interests that didn’t work out and my way of expressing the heartache, love and disappointment.

‘Creating these furniture pieces that are actually art and not a design passing off as art gets me excited’ – Marcarson

ME: You have also dabbled in design, chairs and furniture. Tell me more.

MC: I have an undying thirst for design and interior design. So creating these furniture pieces that are actually art and not a design passing off as art gets me excited! Eventually I would love to do a whole line of furniture pieces.

Read more: Why the Mercedes G Class is an icon

ME: ‘Not For Them’ – how did it start and what does it mean?

MC: Good’ol ‘Not For Them’ or ‘NFT’ as I was calling it before the bullshit took over. It started in 2016 when I was given a gallery space in Long Island City near Moma PS1. A space for me to do my thing. As for meaning – if you have to ask it’s not for you.

‘As for meaning – if you have to ask it’s not for you’ – Marcarson. Photographed by Maryam Eisler in Soho New York City

ME: What’s something you’ve learned from creating art that has affected how you live your everyday life?

MC: Creating art has helped me get over not showing vulnerability. It’s also the perfect tool to express opinions without getting into too much trouble.

ME: Do you think art has a responsibility?

MC: Art responsibility? If it’s not evoking some kind of emotion you are failing.

ME: What does the future hold for Marcarson?

MC: There are some plans in the works for sure. I don’t know what they are per se (finally can use that in a sentence) but I know there’s a future.

notforthemnyc.com

Fabienne Amez-Droz and Masha Nosova at the start of the Rallye des Princesses with Richard Mille’s 1964 yellow Porsche 356 type C on Place Vendôme, Paris

Castles, mountain passes, vintage cars, vintage roadbooks, adrenaline and dressing up. When LUX was invited to drive the classic Porsche 356 from Place Vendome in Paris to the mountains of Andorra, on the Spanish border, via the Atlantic coast, much of La France Profonde and many castles, on the all-women Rallye des Princesses by Richard Mille, we couldn’t refuse.

Over five days, the intrepid LUX driving team, comprising the car-mad Masha Nosova and luxury maven Fabienne Amez-Droz, weathered wrong turns, quick changes for banquets, and the challenge of driving a classic car older than their combined ages, covering nearly nine hours each day in a yellow Porsche 356 type C from 1964.

Their satnav was an old-fashioned roadbook, needing the navigator to be on the ball every minute; and their competition was some of the most experienced women regularity rally enthusiasts in Europe. Interestingly, women make up an increasing proportion of this pioneering brand’s clientele: just one of the ways Richard Mille has reinvented the luxury watch market against all odds. In keeping with the playful yet utterly serious nature of the brand, days picking through routes in rural France were rounded off by spectacular evenings in private chateaux.

Now, as this year’s driving season in Europe gets under way, we look back on our team’s journey across France with long-term partners Richard Mille. Masha and Fabienne take up the story

The Rallye des Princesses isn’t about racing at full throttle, and, despite Masha’s efforts to the contrary, we were not required to shatter speed limits and frighten sheep —this is a regularity rally, where maintaining consistent speed and precision is key, with your timing carefully monitored throughout the course.

All of the Richard Mille Rallye des Princesses cars were lined up on Place Vendôme in Paris, where the rally starts

After a day on the road, the adventure continued with glamorous evenings offering the perfect chance to unwind and connect with competing drivers, and resolve arguments with each other about why we missed the turning back in that village (Masha was driving too fast; Fabienne wasn’t concentrating on the road book).

The rally is unique because it exclusively features female drivers and co-drivers, celebrating women’s passion for vintage cars and racing. Participants race using classic cars dating from the 1930s to the 1980s, adding to the event’s nostalgic charm. Vehicles often include iconic models like Porsche, Ferrari, Jaguar, and Aston Martin.

At the Rallye des Princesses you have to navigate the routes with a roadbook

The Rallye des Princesses was established in 2000. Since then, it has become an annual event, attracting participants from around the world who share a passion for classic cars and the thrill of rally racing. The rally has grown significantly over the years, blending competition with elegance and maintaining its reputation as one of the most prestigious women’s automotive events in Europe.

It’s a celebration of elegance, camaraderie and competitive thrill in the world of vintage cars. And also the ability to get changed rapidly from roadwear – the cars generally have no A/C – to evening wear, the mark of a true princess.

Training Day

In the two days leading up to the start, all the participants arrived in Paris. On the training day, the teams got to know the vintage cars and spent an entire day driving around a small village outside of Paris to get to know how an old-fashioned roadbook works.

Amanda Mille, Brand and Partnerships Director of Richard Mille, drove with us on the first day with a vintage Mini

Having arrived at the Equipe Europe garage, where we met and became acquainted with our rally vehicle, the yellow Porsche 356, it felt as if we had stepped into a classic car museum. Specialising in the restoration and servicing of historic and rare racing cars, the vintage Delahayes, Bugattis and Aston Martins (to name just a few) against the backdrop of the picturesque French countryside inspired us for our journey ahead.

When Masha and I first saw the roadbook, we were quite taken aback—how on earth would we manage this?

After a few hours of practice, Masha and I had become a fairly well-coordinated team. In the evening, we celebrated our training day near the starting point at Place Vendôme.

Amanda Mille, Brand and Partnerships Director of Richard Mille, held a welcome speech at the aperitif.

Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine

Race Day 1 – Waving Goodbye in Paris

In an enclosure just outside the Ritz hotel, around 60 classic cars of all types – from Minis to Mustangs, Porsches to Aston Martins, Alfa Romeos and the odd Ferrari – are gathered. We drove through the bustling city, passing by the Arc de Triomphe, along the Seine and the Eiffel Tower.

After leaving the Place Vendôme, we followed the roadbook via the l Arc de Triomphe on the way to Tours

For several hours, we continued through the countryside toward Tours, stopping along the way for lunch at Domaine de Montigny-le-Gannelon and a coffee break at Chateau de Chambord.

To get us through the many hours of driving, the Richard Mille team organised many coffee and cake breaks. On the first day, this break was at Chateau de Chambord

Having concluded our first day of rallying, we arrived at our final checkpoint of the evening at the Medieval La Grange de Meslay, one of the most historic fortified farms of the 13th century.

The first race day was filled with sunshine and rural routes

Each day, we drove around 9 to 10 hours. The routes in the roadbook led us through scenic landscapes and past historic castles.

The finish line of the first day was at a castle near Tours

Race Day 2 – Island Life on St-Martin-de-Ré

After a good night’s sleep and a big breakfast, we prepared to tackle the second day.

All the vintage cars parked next to each other at the lunch spot

The destination for the second day was the French peninsula of Île de Ré, which is a French version of the Hamptons. Along the way, we had lunch at La Mothe-Saint-Héray, an opulent 17th-century fortress.

Lunch was held at L’orangerie de La Mothe Saint-Héray

After turning off our engines, we followed the sounds of clinking plates and lively discourse of our fellow drivers, navigating ourselves through the splendour of orange and lemon trees scattered across the gravelled courtyard.

After lunch with a side of laughter about the sharp corners and unexpected turns, we continued our journey south.

Read more: Car collector king Fritz Burkard on his Pearl Collection

Driving across the 3km Île de Ré bridge that connects La Rochelle and Riverdoux Plage, we decided to slow down, not only for the speed limit but to truly appreciate the expansive sea rolling into the horizon and the sunset visible in our rear view mirror.

Fabienne Amez-Droz and Masha Nosova with car number 27

The day ended near the coast in St. Martin-de-Ré. Upon our arrival to the seaside hotel, we took the opportunity to briefly swap our 4-wheel vehicle to 2 wheels to cruise around the island with bicycles provided by the hotel – experiencing the real Île de Ré – lifestyle.

The vintage Porsche 356 type C driving through the town of St-Martin-de-Ré

The end destination of the second day was St. Martin-de-Ré at the coast

Race Day 3 – Medieval ages in Sarlat-la-Canéda

After our brief stay on the island, we set off again, leaving the salty air behind. The third race day was filled with impressive landscapes and pitstops to several medieval French castles like Château de Villebois-Lavalette and Château de Hautfort.

In case of any issues with the cars or if you got lost, there was a group of very kind mechanics following us and helping us

Palatial gardens, grandiose architecture and the sounds of revving engines satisfied our appetites to early set off for our afternoon leg.

At the end of every racing day, drivers were welcomed at the parking spot with a glass of champagne

At the end of the day, we were invited to a medieval castle in Sarlat-la-Canéda, where we were greeted by ‘real’ knights and princesses. Even the rallye princesses were dressed in medieval attire and celebrated the third day with a feast in the castle, paired with an exhilarating fire show.

After the feast in the medieval castle there was a huge fire show

Race Day 4 – Carcassonne

Spending the night at Hotel Golf du Domaine de Rochebois, we rose in the early hours of the morning to a light and decadent breakfast overlooking the gentle glow from hot air balloons that spread across the rugged and bushy landscape.

On our fourth day, we embarked towards Carcassonne, located in the Occitanie region of southern France, famous for its medieval fortress and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Stepping inside feels like travelling back in time, having an immersive medieval experience.

We stopped for some lunch at Château de Mauriac

Inside the thick walls of the fortress, all the Rallye des Princesses teams gathered for the delicious traditional Cassoulet – a hearty dish made from white beans, sausage, and duck – a must-try in the region.

The scenic route towards Carcassonne took us through little villages along rivers and narrow routes

The medieval fortress of Carcassonne is a UNESCO World Heritage site

Race Day 5 – Alpine Routes of Andorra and Prize Ceremony

A mountainous finale awaited us. The last day took us along misty mountain routes towards the Pyrenees to Andorra. The routes up the mountains were quite foggy and you had to be very careful as the sight was not the best and there were some wild animals crossing the roads.

Our yellow Porsche 356 conquering the foggy roads towards the mountains

Occasionally, patches of the fog parted, offering brief, breathtaking glimpses of the valley far below, where dark green forests and meandering rivers appeared like miniatures before they were swallowed up again by the mist.

Fabienne Amez-Droz with the Rallye des Princesses merch: A cap, a jacket and a foulard

After crossing the border of Andorra, we drove up and down the mountain passes until lunchtime. Our final lunch stop was an idyllic picnic set up featuring specialities from Andorra, which are a mix between French and Spanish cuisine.

The final leg of the journey to Andorra is nothing short of spectacular, with steep climbs, rugged mountain passes, and panoramic vistas – a fitting finale for the adventure.

Lunch was served at the top of a mountain with many specialities from Andorra, which were interesting to try

After 5 days and countless hours of thrilling driving, we finally crossed the finish line and received our well-deserved champagne to celebrate plus a medal with the whole route engraved. We did it!

The last race day was filled with Andorras mountain passes and we had a picnic set up for us on the top of a mountain

The evening wrapped up with a big awards ceremony, and by the time we assembled at our final venue of the rally, an alpine celebration was awaiting our company. The cool evening mountain air shifted us inside where after a moving speech by Patrick Peter, we sat down at our tables, discussing the rally’s most challenging and exciting moments.

The finish line in Andorra was next to a luxury chalet-style hotel, where we celebrated the end of the rally

We celebrated and danced until the early hours of the morning with all the participants of the 60 teams, and as the night began to wind down, all drivers exchanged contact details and promises to meet at future rallies, still basking in the memories of winding roads, breathtaking views, and the camaraderie that only a journey like the Rallye des Princesses can provide.

At the finish line in Andorra, Fabienne Amez-Droz and Masha Nosova received a glass of champagne to celebrate and a medal with the whole route from Paris to Andorra engraved

By the end of the rally, we had all grown together as close friends and wanted to keep driving. An extraordinary and incredible journey by Richard Mille.

Find out more: richardmille.com/events/rallye-des-princesses

The Mercedes-Benz x Moncler by NIGO collaboration presents the art piece Project Mercedes-Benz G-Class Past II Future

There aren’t many cars these days that become legends. The Mercedes-Benz G-Class is one of them; and a new iteration has just been launched

Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine

It’s an interesting eccentricity in the world of collectors and the wealthy, that perfection is sometimes undesirable. The perfect timepiece, that tells the time more accurately than any Patek Philippe, is a cheap digital watch. The perfect car, while not yet invented, is probably electric, efficient, seats seven, is self-driving and self-cleaning; and costs a tiny fraction of the price of a limited-edition, inefficient, two-seater, impractical supercar.

‘It will plough through mudslides that would deter most normal cars’

Which takes us to the Mercedes-Benz G Class, which has achieved legendary status among a stratum of car collectors. On the one hand, the G Class (it stands for Gelandewagen, basically a car that can cross fields) is quite practical. A tall 4×4 SUV, it will plough through mudslides that would deter most normal cars.

But it’s also a development of the theme of a SUV, in the sense that a multi-complication watch is just there to show what can do, not necessarily to do it. Toy-like in appearance, with doors that “thud” shut as if you are closing the metal door of an industrial unit, it plays with themes of machismo and muscle.

‘The G-Class is a universal hero that adapts to change without losing its uniqueness’ – Bettina Felzer

Its ultimate iteration (produced by Mercedes-Benz anyway; there are plenty of companies that will tune yours up for you) is the G63 AMG, with far more power than necessary, a sound like wet stone cellar full of hungry pitbulls, and a striking, almost cartoonish, road presence.

Read more: Hotel reviews: Whatley Manor, Ca’ del Dio, and Westin Valencia

We visited Shanghai for the launch of this new model, a perfect backdrop of dramatic skyscrapers and go-getting attitude. A car produced by the world’s oldest car manufacturer, and beloved of its newest wealthy economies. It was also dramatically launched with a collaboration with Moncler and Japanese designer NIGO: three design icons together.

‘The G63 AMG, with far more power than necessary’

Or, as Mercedes-Benz VP for digital and communications Bettina Felzer put it to LUX:

Read more: A conversation with artist Enoc Perez

“Our G has evolved from a utility vehicle into a highly sought-after brand ambassador, establishing itself in various cultural fields. Beyond its outstanding technical features, the G-Class is a universal hero that adapts to change without losing its uniqueness. It stays true to its iconic core – timeless yet timely. Following the successful launch of the electric G-Class, we are bridging the timelines of the future and the past in our collaboration with Moncler and NIGO.”

Moncler will be releasing a new fashion collection, designed by Mercedes-Benz and Moncler together with NIGO

From our perspective, it’s just good to know Mercedes-Benz is still creating icons, in an era where others are falling off the radar.

mercedes-benz.com