A luxury hotel pool as imagined by DALL-E, an AI image generator

LUX Editor-in-Chief Darius Sanai stays at many of the world’s greatest hotels every year. He is a long-term admirer of, and advisor to, a number of them, and reviews them for our print magazine’s Luxury Travel Views section and here online. As the year draws to a close with his 30th luxury hotel stay, he offers some advice on what not to do, which every top hotelier should already know

A luxury hotel should never…

1. Ask us how we slept

We may not have slept because we had jet lag, or we were working, or we had chronic back pain, or our girlfriend rang at 2 am and asked who we were with, or we were anxious or depressed, or we were having a party with some Latvian hookers. Or we may have slept fine. All of these happen a lot in luxury hotels. Either way, these are personal things and a good hotelier will know there is only one answer anyone can give, which is an awkward “Yes”. Don’t create awkwardness. Conversely, if we slept badly through some fault of yours, like a noisy air con unit, we will tell you without being asked.

An AI generated image of a hotel room with stunning views onto an imaginary metropolis

2. Serve an a la carte only breakfast

We know exactly why you do this. For a big four star hotel, food wastage from a buffet is cheaper than the staff needed to manage and serve everyone a la carte. For a luxury hotel (usually smaller), you can manage costs by having an a la carte only. One luxury hotel in Paris served me a basket of viennoisseries (cheap, and which I don’t eat), a filter coffee and a derisory slice of supermarket toast with two small tomatoes on it, for more than €40. Bite the bullet, create an excellent buffet, include it in your rates. (We may make an exception for very small luxury hotels, 20 rooms or less, but you had better serve a hell of an a la carte menu.)

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Oh, and absolutely no branded packets of cereal on show, ever. You don’t serve cans of Coke in your restaurant, so don’t serve packs of Coco Pops either. If you must have mass manufactured cereals, rather than making your own or buying from better, smaller, organic brands, serve them out; but better still, terminate the Kelloggs pipeline and serve proper cereals, a marginal cost increase – but when did anyone tell you running a luxury hotel would be cheap?

Exceptions are allowed for island resort and other remote locations where raw ingredients are hard to come by: but oats, nuts and seeds for your own cereal are pretty universal. You may have a Michelin-starred restaurant, so why serve breakfast cereal that’s sold in every supermarket chain?

A luxury hotel buffet breakfast as conceived of by OpenArt AI

3. Leave bathroom flyers asking primly if you don’t want your towels or linen cleaned for environmental reasons

These abominations first popped up in the 1990s, little signs saying ‘oh, do you know how much energy and water is wasted by washing linen and towels?’ We do know that, and we know that if you wanted to start a business that was carbon- and planet-positive, you wouldn’t start a hotel. Hotels, and travel, are inherently damaging to the planet. So you could leave out signs telling your guests not to travel anywhere, but that would be self-destructive, so don’t disguise a cost-saving as your own worthiness.

Do something environmental that requires investment  – reverse osmosis, heat pumps, banning plastic packaging, reusable crates for your suppliers- and shout about that instead. And wash my towels.

A luxury hotel bedroom generated by OpenArt AI

4. Over digitise your media and in-room collateral

Even as magazine and newspaper people, we get it. Many people, particularly from particular places or generations, don’t read print anymore. But many do. So, the logical thing for a luxury hotel is to offer every guest, on checking in, a choice of newspaper to be delivered to their room. If they decline, you don’t need to put the order in for the next day.

With magazines, do not begin to believe an abominable “e-reader” is an alternative to an actual magazine. Nobody uses “e-readers” and we don’t design magazines to be read by them. So place a fine quality publication, like Conde Nast Traveller or LUX, in each room, alongside your own (your own magazine is an important communication and amplification and clientelling tool – do it well).

If your CRM system is up to it (and it should be) find out the preferences of your top tier repeat guests so they have their copy of Fly Fishing Monthly or Auto Motor und Sport waiting in their room; a true way to surprise and delight at less than half the cost of a bottle of champagne. You will need to have a staff member coordinating this, but you can use all the staff hours you free up from not serving an a la carte breakfast.

Read more: A historic tasting of Masseto wines

Meanwhile, if we want room service or to know what the hotel restaurants serve, we like picking up a nicely designed, clean folder and looking through a non-tatty selection of pages dedicated to the topics. We don’t like having to find a remote control, fiddle with it to get rid of the “Welcome” message, mistakenly click on to the in-house movie of a couple with very white teeth in the spa, get rid of that, find the “Services” menu, tap down to reach “Room Service”, mistakenly tap the wrong way and get the couple in the spa again, tap back to room service, tap along to the appetisers sub-menu…luxury is supposed to be about pleasure.

And just stop using QR codes for your room service menu. We have arrived at your luxury hotel for relaxation and escape. We don’t want to be picking up the same tool we have been using for sending emails during our 12 hour journey, and squint at a menu that doesn’t fit on a phone screen. Make the investment in proper printed collateral.

A luxury hotel infinity pool looking over an imaginary megacity created by AI OpenArt

5. Forget who we are

We understand, just about, if we return to the hotel in the evening and receptionist on evening shift that we haven’t met doesn’t instantly recognise our face from the 200 other guests that day. But, if we have had an issue – window not sealing, tap broken, car didn’t turn up, whatever, issues do happen – and we report back to the evening shift, and identify ourselves, we expect the first person we speak to to a) know all about the problem and b) know what is being done to fix it. If we have to explain who we are and what happened, more than once, there is no luxury in being treated like a repeat caller to a call centre.

And if any of your front desk staff meet us and forget who we are subsequently… that’s not hospitality.

A high-ceilinged, grand hotel foyer generated by OpenArt AI

6. Take up our time with wifi

It’s minor, but irritating enough to black mark an arrival experience. We try and log in to wifi and are redirected to Swisscom – its always Swisscom – and we need to scroll down a list of country codes, enter our number, receive a code, and tap that in. Firstly, a third party data capturing your guests is not cool. Secondly, make the effort to install your own wifi, take responsibility for it and have a simple hookup. One-tap hookup is best, entering room number and name is acceptable. Nothing else.

I have been careful not to name any specific perpetrators of the above crimes against luxury above, but I am going to single out one group for praise. Peninsula hotels have their own, very clearly designed tablets with idiot-proof navigation on which you can make all your in-room dining, lighting, curtain and other choices. No need for a physical folder there, but Peninsula also value print, with several magazines of their own in the rooms, and a proper writing desk and pad. Pure class; and, as a disclaimer, I have paid for my own room every time I have stayed at a Peninsula, so no bias here. Others take note.

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Reading time: 7 min

For a mentor, Jonathan Miller could give some pretty damn terrible advice. It was sometime in the late 1990s, shortly after we had met. I was back in the UK from my first job after university, as a foreign correspondent, and, low on contacts but high on ambition, looking for guidance.

Jonathan, to me, was the perfect role model. Intelligent, hilarious, swashbuckling, iconoclastic, a brilliant writer who was also good enough with people to have become an editor and columnist on what was then an all-powerful national newspaper. He was someone whose words rang out across the country every week, and for no reason other than a bond formed of camaraderie, a mutual dark humour and some hobbies in common, he took me under his wing. 

I had heard of a job going, as Rome correspondent of The Guardian. As an Italian speaking Europhile who had studied European politics at Oxford, worked as a foreign correspondent, and written for the Guardian, I felt I was a strong candidate. I asked my new mentor for his advice. “That’s the perfect job for you !” he said, “and you can sock it to those lefties at the Guardian!” Or words to the fact that effect – Jonathan‘s soft right politics were at odds with the newspaper. “Tell them it’s a pivotal time for Italy as it’s going to split into two states, north and south, you can predict it and cover it!”.  

It’s true that the Lega Nord, the Northern League, which favoured breaking up the country into its wealthy north and poorer south, was then at its zenith, but he was the only person I had heard to make this prediction with confidence. But he was Jonathan Miller – not only a national newspaper columnist, but one of the most convincing people on the planet.

I applied for the job, letting my (his) prediction for the future of Italy be known. I didn’t even get an interview. I am not sure why, but a friend working at the Guardian did email to ask me why on earth I had predicted in my application that Italy was going to split into two.

‘I always think of Jonathan’s ebullient, slightly dark confidence, whenever I launch a new issue of any publication’

I mentioned this to Jonathan, dolefully, during our next chat at his house. “Oh well it might happen sometime! Have a drink! Now, I’m 40 and I need to buy myself a Menoporsche! Which one shall I get?” With that, the previous topic was forgotten and we delved gleefully, like small boys with a combined age of 65, into the next. (He sold the “Menoporsche”, a glossy black Porsche 911 from the 1990s 964 series, almost as quickly as he purchased it.) 

The next “project” we had together was altogether more serious: after an ownership change at the publication we both contributed to, we got together with some other senior editors (who looked askance at the young freelance in the room) and put together an ambitious project for a new London weekly newspaper, a kind of cross between The New Yorker and The New York Observer, then at the height of its subversive influence. We got to the stage of producing dummies, a content plan and a business plan (when I say we: this was 90% Jonathan, 9% his fellow editors, and 1% me) and looking for funding for The Beast, as he titled it. Long evenings were spent at his desktop Mac in Hampstead piecing plans together for this game-changer (this was when confidence in legacy media was still high).  

I don’t recall exactly what happened to The Beast; perhaps the hunger to see it through was not there, or the funding proved difficult, or both. But the experience, a crash course in magazine making from people who had done it, taught me hugely important lessons for a future where I did and still do launch and create magazines and media, and I always think of Jonathan’s ebullient, slightly dark confidence, whenever I launch a new issue of any publication. 

Those beautiful days when Jonathan lived in a modernist house in Hampstead, and I would ring him up and drop round for tea or lunch or coffee or drinks with him and his delightful wife Terry – surely one of the nicest people ever to work for Goldman Sachs – and his children Alysen and Dan, seem infinitely far away now.

‘Highly intelligent and with the acuity of, well, a top journalist, Jonathan was always active – hyperactive, even’

Soon, I did get a proper job on a national newspaper, thus instantly disappearing my available time to drive up to Hampstead; and the Millers moved, first to the Surrey/Sussex border, from where he wrote an engaging newspaper column about farming on the edge of suburbia, and thence to the Languedoc, in southern France, from where he became a celebrated correspondent for The Spectator and other media.  

He gave me a tour of his Languedoc “starter chateau” more than 20 years ago when he was buying it, and to my shame I never visited the completed house, although like millions of others I feel I did, having read his dispatches. 

In France, Jonathan embraced his French inner child (having always been very in touch with his British/American/Jewish inner child back in London). According to those who know him best, he inserted himself fully into village life, not only becoming fluent in a second language (something he said improved his writing in English, and should be obligatory for all journalists), but also entering the political arena by being elected to the local town council. He wrote a book about France and frequently contributed provocative, funny, well-informed (and borderline inflammatory) pieces about French politics to both The Spectator and Daily Mail. Emmanuel Macron provided a lot of his material – “the gift that keeps on giving,” he said – but his writing for The Spectator was a potpourri of other subjects that caught his interest, including food, sexual mores and the French health system.

Last year, he decided it was time to write a memoir of his life as a journalist across the changing spectrum of the news. Shock of The News, Confessions of a Troublemaker was finished just before he died. It is typically Jonathan all the way through, insightful, unpredictable, entertaining, iconoclastic, and highly personal, including all his top tips for being a troublemaker, with the primary one being: “read this book!”.

Family was always extremely important to Jonathan: he once sent me an email with the subject field “My brilliant daughter”

My fondest memory of Jonathan, though, is not anything to do with the media or writing. Shortly after we met, he announced that he had tickets for the Iran vs USA match in the World Cup, in France. Jonathan was tickled by the idea of an American Jew and an exiled Iranian Brit going to this match together, and kindly invited me to join his family and other Iranian friends on what remains one of the most fun I have ever had at a football event.  

The atmosphere was a party, from both sides of supporters uninterested in higher politics, nobody really cared who won (Iran, I think, 2-1) and we spent 48 hours eating well, chatting about politics and wine and cars and how outrageous various things were that Jonathan disagreed with. Years on, his latest columns dealt with likelihood of a French civil war, which I personally treat with as much scepticism as the prospect of a North and South Italy, but in this case he had more than 20 years of living in the country to back up his views. 

Highly intelligent and with the acuity of, well, a top journalist, Jonathan was always active – hyperactive, even – which makes his death even more incomprehensible. He didn’t exactly have joie de vivre – he had too much of the Jewish inner black humour for that – but he had vivre. It would make sense to Jonathan to say that even though I haven’t seen him for 10 years, I really miss him. Farewell to my mentor, his buzzing, flashing lights turned off far too soon.  

“Shock of the News: Confessions of a Troublemaker” is available from Waterstones, Abe Books, Amazon and other booksellers

Darius Sanai is owner of LUX Media and The Oxford Review of Books, an Editor-in-Chief at Condé Nast, and in another life, launched The London Beast under Jonathan’s direction

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Reading time: 7 min

Poet and artist Arch Hades with her diptych Willingly Mine, which pictures two figures in bridal robes

The world’s highest-paid poet, Arch Hades, endured a torrid youth. She is now an artist as well as a poet, with acclaimed exhibitions in London and Venice, her works full of classical and philosophical references. LUX Editor-in-Chief Darius Sanai meets her and discovers someone deeply thoughtful, and somehow serene 

There’s something quite Unknown Pleasures about Arch Hades. That album, whose sleeve design and desolately haunting soundtrack are both cultural legends, was by the band Joy Division, who were, in their own words, “a good laugh” in the real world, despite the impression given by their works.

An installation view from Arch Hades’ 2025 solo exhibition We Are All Just Passing Through in Berkeley Square. Photograph by Eva Herzog

Similarly, the artworks created by Arch Hades are soulful but, in the main, bleak. In Odyssey, faceless statues seemingly in white robes line an avenue of monochrome trees disappearing into the grey distance. In each image of the diptych Willingly Mine, a figure in a bridal robe, face cut out, sits on what appear to be midnight-blue reeds, backed by a dark sky. Funeral depicts, well, just that, with a hint of the anointment of the crucified Christ. Her latest show, in London, is called “We Are All Just Passing Through”.

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So, we would be forgiven for expecting a sullen, goth-type figure to meet us in London for this interview, perhaps even more so given Arch Hades first made a name for her romantic poetry. Yet in person, Arch is beautifully presented, funny, philosophical, quick witted and engaging, jumping into philosophical, Classical, or art historical references seemingly without being able to help it.

A look into Arch Hades’ studio at her country home, where she works predominantly with acrylic paint

Born in Russia, Hades moved to the UK for boarding school after her father was killed in a politically motivated murder in her homeland. Her real name and address, in a country house outside London, is a secret, as she is still a security risk. She shot to world fame as she became, technically, the “highest-paid poet in the world”, when a work of hers sold as a piece of digital fine art for $525,000 at Christie’s, New York in 2021.

For the past few years, she has focused on art, specifically acrylic on canvas, which she creates in her studio at her country home: she has just completed a 13m-wide canvas for a show to be held in Venice during the Biennale in 2026. Where did she get the idea from? “It came from St Bede’s parable of the sparrow in meaning, and visually I am inspired by Klimt’s Faculty Paintings,” she says. Why does she use acrylic, rather than oil? “I like to work quickly, so acrylic suits me well as it dries fast, and you can layer it on very thick if you want to, like frosting on a cake, getting a large range of textures.”

Arch Hades in her studio, sitting beside her painting Fig

For a poet and artist, particularly one who creates such unearthly and spectral works, Hades is quite matter of fact. Asked how her process of ideating and creating differs from painting to poem, she answers, “How I do anything is how I do everything – whether it’s writing a poem, painting a picture or cooking – the process is the same.

Read more: Spirit Now London acquires works for National Portrait Gallery at Frieze

“First, I must formulate a clear vision of the end result in my mind and work back from it. In poetry, I write the last line first; in painting and sculpture, I visualise the final composition and textures before planning the steps there. Unfortunately, this doesn’t make me very spontaneous, but I also don’t mind. When I was young someone gave me the six-word formula for success: think things through, then follow through. It’s not failed me yet.”

Another installation view of Arch Hades’ solo exhibition We Are All Just Passing Through, showcasing her acrylic paintings and sculpture. Photograph by Eva Herzog

If that sounds like a homily from a business-school professor, there is that side to Hades, but it’s perhaps a carapace, a use of her natural wit and intelligence against people who doubt a poet can become an artist, or that a well-presented woman can be a poet. Her English has a wider vocabulary than that of most natives, and you have to listen really hard for a hint of an accent – pretty impressive for someone who came to the UK at the age of eight.

Read more: The first ever Jodhpur Arts Week just opened

It’s plain, from her works, from the sadness you sometimes glimpse in her eyes, that her father’s violent death affected her deeply. Asked, in the abstract, if she forgives, Hades replies, “I forgive if the person(s) who did the bad thing makes a sincere apology, corrects the wrong and doesn’t repeat it.
If we shelter people from the consequences of their actions, we are teaching irresponsibility. So, I’ll forgive, but I’ll never forget. I already wrote it all down.”

A piece for her series Confessions (2025), which reads “There will be no warning when it is our last time together”. Photography by Eva Herzog

If her father had not been murdered, would she have become a poet and artist? “Interesting question. Goodness knows. Literature and art have definitely been cathartic,” she says. Indeed her Confessions series was drawn from the journals she made as a teenager, when she had a dreadful time socially at a famous and academic girls’ boarding school.

Looking at Hades’ latest paintings – striking, complex and compelling though they are – you feel she is just at the start of a long and rich journey as a visual artist: her narratives will transform and develop, just as they did in the lives of her poetic inspirations Byron, Rilke and Mary Oliver, all of whom had more than a passing familiarity with loneliness and sadness.

archhades.com

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Reading time: 5 min

The Heydar Aliev Cultural Center in Baku was one of the last great projects of super-architect Zaha Hadid

An initiative by Leyla Aliyeva, the prime cultural and artistic force in Azerbaijan, on Europe’s easternmost coast with the Caspian Sea, will set the cultural flames alight in the country’s capital

Baku, capital of Azerbaijan, on the Caspian Sea, is a unique cultural hub. Its own culture stretches back for millennia, encompassing the silk routes, fire temples, lyrical poetry in the medieval era, and some powerful contemporary and 20th century artists.

Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine

It is also on a kind of cultural Silk Road, its position on the Caspian, close to Russia, Turkey and Iran on one side and central Asia and China on the other, leading to a constant exchange of artistic concepts.

Baku is a cultural panoply, embracing ancient temples and its old city, Belle Epoque mansions, and contemporary glamour

On the first weekend of November, it all comes together with Fly to Baku: Baku Art Weekend, featuring an astonishing panoply of visual and street arts, culture, dance, performances and exhibitions. The aim, says Aliyeva, is to connect memory with imagination, heritage with innovation, and hearts with hope.

Read more: Spirit Now London acquires works for National Portrait Gallery at Frieze

Guided by the element of water — a symbol of continuity, renewal, and shared memory — the festival unfolds across Baku’s museums, palaces, and public spaces. Over three days, the city becomes the central character of a cultural journey where heritage meets innovation, and where the Caspian horizon reflects both tradition and the future.

Baku Art Weekend takes place at sites across the cosmopolitan Caspian city, from concert halls and theatres to open-air venues

Exhibitions and performances will take place in museums, concert halls, outdoor spaces and the city’s celebrated Boulevard, the crescent-shaped seafront boardwalk that defines its relationship with the sea.

Baku, at the heart of a thriving country that is at once young and ancient, has the cultural soul, the confidence and the sheer creativity to make this the start of something very special – and also the continuation of a centuries-old tradition.

bakuartweekend.az

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The Spirit Now London Committee at Frieze London 2025, selecting this year’s winning works for the Acquisition Prize

Every year, collectors’ group Spirit Now London awards a prize to artworks at Frieze London to highlight the work of often-overlooked women artists, and acquire their work for an institution. Chaired by Marie-Laure de Clermont-Tonnere, the fourth edition of this prize saw a partnership with Frieze and the National Portrait Gallery to select the 2025 winners of the Acquisition Prize.

The winners, artists Madge Gill and Stella Snead have their selected works acquired and donated to the National Portrait Gallery.

The ‘Spirit of Giving Committee’, chaired by Marie-Laure de Clermont-Tonnerre and guided by Dr. Flavia Frigeri, Director of Collections at the National Portrait Gallery, gathered earlier this month during the Frieze opening preview to view the works in person and vote, after months of deliberation. The selection took place in the presence of Victoria Siddall, Director of the National Portrait Gallery and previous Global Director of Frieze.

The Spirit Now London committee is by-invitation only, made up of patrons, collectors and those dedicated to promoting cultural institutions, women artists and emerging artists. LUX Editor-in-Chief Darius Sanai (head of the table, back) joined the convocation over lunch at Frieze Masters

The prestigious committee is made up of some of London’s highest-ranking collectors and patrons to support women artists and cultural institutions. The 2025 Committee members were Amy Ainscough, Eva Anisko, Elizabeth Belfer, Francesca Brignone, Areti Dalacoura, Rocío de la Cuadra, Maryam Eisler, Catherine Gale, Maria Hatzistefanis, Carla du Manoir, Camilla Partridge, Laura Stock, Vanessa Mitchell Thompson and Lara Veroner.

Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine

The award recognises two artists whose practices offer distinct perspectives on spirituality, identity, and imagination. The first is Madge Gill (1882–1961), who was a self-taught British artist known for her detailed ink drawings of female figures, often guided by what she described as a spirit named ‘Myrninerest’. While mostly painted on small postcard-sized pieces of calico, her visionary works explore themes of mysticism, femininity, and inner vision.

The selected winning piece by Madge Gill, Untitled, 1954

Stella Snead (1910–2006), is the second of the two winners. A British-born Surrealist painter and photographer whose career spanned London, New York, and India, her paintings often combined dreamlike landscapes with symbolic figures and natural forms.

Read more: The first ever Jodhpur Arts Week just opened

After relocating to India in the 1950s, Snead turned to photography, documenting rituals, festivals, and folk traditions. Both winners of the Acquisition Prize were deeply concerned with the importance of mysticism and imagination, topics often looked down upon within the reigning art historical canon.

Stella Snead’s winning pieces, titled Portraits of Leonora Carrington, 1978

Stella Snead, Portraits of Leonora Carrington, 1978

spiritnowlondon.com

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Darius Sanai: I think it would be interesting to start with AI.

Stanislas de Quercize: Yes, AI is fabulous – it’s not 10 times better, not 100 times nor 1,000 times, but one million times better than our brain. As you know, Jonathan Siboni is a worldwide leader of data for the luxury industry, thanks to artificial intelligence. So it’s vital.

Jonathan Siboni: There’s a lot of bias around AI, and rightfully so as the world is changing quickly, but 99 per cent of what exists today in artificial intelligence is nothing new – it existed 20 or 30 years ago. What has changed is the ability of the interface: to be able to ask a simple question and get an answer that seems human. That has a deep impact on how consumers may interact with brands in the future: they may discuss a certain problem and feel like they’re talking to a human – that is important in luxury. If you were in a different sector, you wouldn’t mind talking to a computer so much, but for us, it’s just not possible.  

However, a lot of the things we are doing with Luxurynsight have been using AI for years: the technology has not changed tremendously. There’s something interesting about machines and learning the machine can be as powerful as you want, but if you don’t know how to teach it, it’s useless. The question of how to teach AI for luxury comes back to the purpose you want it to serve. If it’s to improve the fine tuning of prices versus demand, then it’s super useful for brands.

A brand is a connection with a human: we all know that when we buy from Dior, we don’t buy from Christian himself, we talk to a salesperson, who 99 per cent of the time is our only face of the brand. If these people do not treat us well, all that work is burned in 20 seconds. So, the idea that tomorrow there will be a computer version, instead of a salesperson, will not have an impact. Most people won’t notice because a good AI system automatises for as long as possible and hands back to a human if a problem occurs. For me, as long as we limit AI to being something supportive, I don’t think it will be brands’ sole way of engaging with humans. 

SdQ: We always need to improve luxury. We should question what we’re doing and how we’re doing it. AI is fundamental because it’s ultimately going to boost whatever you do, from manufacturing to selling.  

A watch wholesaler told me that one of his bestsellers was the preloved category. He added that the earth has been preloved over thousands of years: your apartment, your boutiques, your gardens, your castles. What you buy today, you can sell in six weeks, six months, six years. And I spoke to a brand that helps you buy and sell preloved jewellery. Preloved is human – it’s good for the planet and for everyone. But whatever we do, we need to always find ways to improve it, and AI will help that. 

DS: At the moment we have two interesting trends: we are in the middle of the greatest generational wealth transfer in the history of humanity, but the luxury consumer market shrank last year. How will these affect luxury?

JS: For me, the impact has already begun. If you look at the luxury revolution over the past 70 years, younger people have access to more wealth than before – partly from their parents. This young generation will transform the industry to something more experiential, emotional and authentic – more about being than having. That’s my feeling, and it’s begun already. Younger people also love fashion, they love trends. When it’s trendy, they overbuy, when it’s out of fashion, they don’t buy.

That’s a risk, but also an opportunity for luxury. With the second trend, the market shrunk a little, true, but it was overinflated because of Covid. People didn’t have many ways to spend money, so they overspent on luxury goods. Now they can travel again, they won’t spend as much as before, so there is a new normal.  

SdQ: First, always improve. Second, all clients are asking what you’re doing to save the planet – there’s a new law in the EU called CSRD (Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive), an obligation for large companies to declare their environmental impact. Third, we need to improve where we develop. Luxury started in France, then developed into Europe, the USA, the Middle East, and now Japan, China and India.

There is a lot of effort to improve there because India is the number one market. In 1999, China was two per cent of the luxury market, now it’s between 35 and 50 per cent. India is one per cent of the market now so I think it will increase because of this new generation. I also think it’s important to have a price pyramid. We need the combination of access price and expensive price.

JS: Something amazing started to appear in the past generation – new luxury brands. When I started, there was new commerce, but not new brands. Now in almost all the industries there are new brands with relatively young founders. It proves there’s an openness to look at modernity and not just heritage. If you look at the brands performing best in luxury, they are ones considered modern – even if they are old, they re-invent themselves.

Where I believe the rules of the game can change is in new categories. A few years ago, I was in Switzerland with luxury brands and we discussed the Apple Watch. We asked ourselves: will it change or kill the luxury watch market? If every day people put smartwatches on, they may still have a Patek, but keep it in the safe – that’s not how they engaged with a product before and it would limit the market to only a few brands with high investment power.

It’s also about safety and technology. People hesitate to put on an expensive watch because of safety questions. If you have an amazing watch but can’t wear it, plus you prefer to have an Apple Watch to see what’s happening on your phone, it brings into question the long-term existence of the categories. They will survive, but maybe as pieces of art – much as we have antique furniture now as art pieces.

Christian Louboutin and Jimmy Choo are amazing brands, but if tomorrow people don’t want cars any more and everybody takes a bike to work, they will not wear heels – you cannot wear heels on a bike. The evolution of people’s lives will show which categories are engaging with which brands, and some young brands may be better at this. 

SdQ: Well, in luxury, there are always new brands and new creativity: Cartier is nearly 200 years old, but Messika only 20. So there is old and new, and you can sell again what you created 100 years ago – Cartier preloved and vintage jewellery, for example. What I love in luxury is that there is cooperation instead of competition. I worked as a board member of Comité Colbert, which has 95 maisons working in concurrence, not in competition. There are more and more clients in the world, and we need to open in new countries, so there’s room. 

JS: Luxury grows by going into new territories: if you stay where you are, you die. Luxury started two generations ago – brands with a strong heritage selling to a few rich clients in a few rich countries. Over the past 40 years they started selling to the middle classes in new territories and making new products for them, such as perfume. They have reinvented constantly to survive change.  

Today, brands need huge reach to grow – and it’s hard to be visible and not dilute yourself too much. There are two philosophies. The French philosophy is that brands come from haute couture, like Hermès, and go to ready-to-wear and perfume and so on. Then you have the Italian model of brands that come from the middle, like Armani, and grow, which allows them to go to haute couture. Today, these two models are competitors, because all brands went both up and down. Now, all luxury brands go to jewellery – to all segments – but will that hold? It’s an open question.

Sommet & Talents du Luxe 2025 – 19 Juin 2025

SdQ: The President of Hermès said luxury is what you repair, what you restore. My own definition of luxury is what you transmit. Your luxury is the best way to express your love, your friendship, your fraternity; it’s also vital to create new emotions. I once decided to invite our 80 top clients every year to see the new high jewellery collection, so they made potential new friends from different countries who love jewellery.

When we created a dinner at the top of the Eiffel Tower to present a new collection, a young American, maybe 25 years old, raised a toast to being a fourth-generation buyer. That’s what we are looking for: to have loyalty and serve clients from generation to generation. It is important to share from country to country, with companies helping each other, and to have events that people can share and amplify and are wins for everyone. 

DS: In terms of technology, Luxurynsight is a data firm, so what is happening in terms of the way luxury will be monitored?

JS: Luxury brands are about creating something that may not be needed but that will be desired. Generally, that comes with a high intensity of intuition and creativity that helps these maisons become empires. However, the world is changing quickly and, for me, the only way to understand its opportunities is to be able to create better GPS. Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Karl Lagerfeld all ensured they had as much connection to the world around them as possible. 

PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 18: (L-R) Stanislas de Quercize, Bernadette Chirac and Princess Charlene attends Van Cleef & Arpels Exhibition Launch at Musee Des Arts Decoratifs on September 18, 2012 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/French Select via Getty Images) *** Local Caption *** Princess Charlene; Stanislas de Quercize; Bernadette Chirac

Technology helps us go further. We work with more than 60 maisons every day, bringing in AI to optimise their business. The reality of the market today is not just your shop, it’s social media, it’s the ability to tell brands, “You’re performing well in that category but your competitor is doing this.” We process three to five million images a day. I can tell you in Italy right now which colour or category is over-performing because of the number of people wearing them.

Zara was a revolution a few decades ago, because it brought new technology to look at the world around it and be extremely reactive. Today, even Zara is being disrupted by new players like AI. The question is not, “How can I be quicker than them?”, because you can’t. Just see what the world is doing, find new opportunities in what you do, and look at the world around you with a little more prediction capability – not to copy, but to create.  

Stanislas once told me, “We invented the brake to go quicker.” If I give you data, you can be more creative – you can measure the risk of going in that direction of creativity. If you have zero data, anything you do will be a risk. That’s the beauty of luxury: it’s not about using data in order not to take risks; it’s using it to evaluate well and be better at taking the risks. You need to stay ahead by running, not by waiting and saying, “I’ve been here for 200 years.”

SdQ: You know, Jonathan is a genius: he’s using data to help people make decisions. Whenever you are travelling you need some form of GPS to help you, and in giving you data he helps you with that.  

DS: You’ve anticipated my next question: what do each of you find most interesting about the other?

PARIS, FRANCE – DECEMBER 02: (L-R) Prince Albert de Monaco, Actress Juliette Binoche and President of Cartier Stanislas de Quercize attend the ‘Cartier: Le Style et L’Histoire’ Exhibition Private Opening at Le Grand Palais on December 2, 2013 in Paris, France. GettyImages for Cartier (Photo by Rindoff Petroff / Castel/French Select via Getty Images) *** Local Caption *** Albert de Monaco; Juliette Binoche; Stanislas de Quercize

JS: A better question would be, “what don’t I?”. I am most fascinated by two things. The first is his modernity: the ability to think of the future and not just the past, no matter how glorious – when you’ve been the CEO of Cartier and so on –  but to look at the future, its complexities and trends. The second is a true kindness. Stanislas has been waking up every day to help young people, to help new industry – pure, non-business-related kindness that people want to give back to him. Speak to anyone who has worked with Stanislas, even 30 years ago, we all owe him a lot. I’m in debt to his kindness and vision, and that is rare: when you’ve done a lot, sometimes you think you can take, just because you have power. Stanislas is all about giving. 

SdQ: As I mentioned, Jonathan is fabulous because what he is doing with data really is helping everybody. One hundred per cent of brands and maisons are able to make decisions, and it’s incarnating his prophecy through inspiring, joyful solutions. If you’re using Luxurynsight, it’s boosting you. 

JS: What luxury brands have done recently is be open to change. When you’re number one, you don’t have as much incentive; all you can do is to lose, so you tend to just stop. But this ability to say, “You’re doing something I don’t know about; show me what you do,” is new to a lot of luxury groups. I think with this vitality, luxury will continue to be the amazing sector it’s been for hundreds of years. 

Series coordinator: Charlotte Martin. Online editor: Cleo Scott. Chief sub-editor: Marion Jones.

This article was first published in the Winter 2026 print issue of LUX. Read this continuing series of LUX x Luxurynsight Dialogues monthly online at LUX magazine

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Luxurynsight founder and CEO Jonathan Siboni with Bénédicte Epinay, CEO of Comité Colbert

In an exclusive new series for LUX, Jonathan Siboni, luxury guru and founder of Luxurynsight, speaks with leaders in the field. Here, in a dialogue moderated by our Editor-in-Chief Darius Sanai, Siboni chats with Bénédicte Epinay, CEO of Comité Colbert, the official body of the French luxury industry, about why France is just so good at luxe

Darius Sanai: Why is France still the world leader in luxury?

Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine

Bénédicte Epinay: The French luxury industry dates back to the 17th century, when Louis XIV and finance minister Jean-Baptiste Colbert made the political decision that, to enrich the kingdom, France should specialise in creating very high quality products. It was a political decision that created the manufacturers that still exist today. In the 19th century, another political decision encouraged more people to create businesses. Half of Comité Colbert – Cartier, Hermès and many champagne companies – were born then. Later in 1945 we created the haute couture label. So France is politically committed to specialising in luxury. We also have savoir-faire and were able – better than, say, Italy or England – to preserve it. This is the core business of Comité Colbert. We were formed in 1954 – in another political move – to bring together competitors and preserve this savoir-faire.

Bénédicte Epinay, CEO of Comité Colbert, a non-profit association which brings together ninety-three French luxury houses, seventeen cultural institutions, and six European luxury houses

Jonathan Siboni: Luxury before this was limited by people and geography. In the Chinese empire, it was limited to people around the emperor, in the Roman empire by those closest to Rome. Louis XIV and Colbert designed it to be universal – when Versailles was created, anybody could enter and walk within. These seeds developed the industry of today, a worldwide business reaching more and more people. Thanks to institutional support and constitutional groups, we could grow family businesses into industries with know-how. That brought the best talent to Paris and created the best schools, systems and groups – not because we’re better than other countries, but because of the process.

DS: How does Comité Colbert’s cultural ambassadorship support the luxury industry around the world?

BE: Comité Colbert represents French luxury abroad. Last year, we hosted an event in Shanghai to celebrate the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between France and China. This is where we are useful: when business is complicated, we bring culture to the dialogue. Next year, France celebrates 250 years of French-American friendship. It’s an official celebration, not through artisans, because the Americans don’t have artisans as we have, but an exhibition of our maisons’ archives about their history with America. We don’t know where we will stand next year with Mr Trump’s tariffs – maybe this exhibition will be useful for negotiations.

Jonathan Siboni, CEO of Luxurynsight and expert on luxury data and strategy, speaking at the Comité Colbert showcase event in Shanghai

DS: How important is soft power in luxury?

JS: What makes luxury is the ability to create. We need genius in creativity, but culture is at the core and luxury has understood this for a long time. With a French luxury brand, it says something about our culture. It distinguishes luxury brands from business brands that just analyse and make products. Today, culture is the core of the economy. Thirty years ago it was resources – oil, cars, banks. Now it’s data and culture companies, because people spend their time on social media or Netflix. And brands have a role to play. The world needs more softness than ever, there is too much tension. The Comité Colbert Shanghai showcase event said: we all have our cultures, but we can find resonance between them. This is central in a world that craves identity.

Read more: Abu Dhabi’s Huda Alkhamis-Kanoo on the burgeoning cultural scene in the Emirate

BE: A strong economy requires strong culture. Colbert advocated for this early on and it remains key for our government. I depend on three ministries: the economy and the craftsmanship ministries but, above all, I report to the Ministry of Culture. In Italy or England they report to the economy ministry or equivalent.

DS: Because France takes luxury seriously?

Jonathan Siboni and Comité Colbert at their 2024 Shanghai showcase, celebrating the rich dialogue between Chinese craftsmanship and French luxury artistry

BE: Absolutely. Comité Colbert has both luxury brands and cultural institutions as members. Yesterday, the Comité voted to integrate the Grand Palais, and we’re holding our next Les De(ux)mains du Luxe craftsmanship event there in October. We all work together.

JS: These partnerships symbolise the uniqueness of both France and the Comité Colbert. The reason some brands show resilience is because they’ve developed a savoir-faire and commit to it. Craftsmanship is the soul of luxury. What also sets the Comité apart is culture. From a business perspective, you might ask, “Why make a group with both Louis Vuitton and a museum? it doesn’t make sense.” But from a big-picture perspective, it’s wonderful. The vision from day one was bigger, deeper, more sincere.

DS: How do you convince a new generation of teenagers to train to stitch Hermès handbags?

BE: We do face a shortage of workshop talent. So three years ago, we created our craftsmanship events, Les De(ux)mains du Luxe, and we’ve had 30,000 young people visit. Manual jobs have been undervalued for years – people are afraid when their child wants to be a leather-goods worker; they think they won’t find a job, they won’t be paid enough. My first mission is to reassure them we have strong companies to make a career with. We created a TikTok account and made videos of young artisans explaining why they love their job. Then we created #savoirfaire. We had one billion views. When we explain to young people what savoir-faire is about and the careers they can have, they are interested.

Bénédicte Epinay at Les Nouveaux Luxes: 1.618, an event dedicated to raising awareness about sustainable development in the luxury industry

DS: Culture and art are increasingly entwined. Has art become more central to luxury?

BE: It’s been important for years. We buy luxury because of the design and raw materials – this is the rational part. We buy it because it’s a way to show we belong to a category of rich people – this is relational. But we also love the story behind it, the heritage – this is the emotional part, where culture has a role to play. Art is a huge part of luxury’s emotional articulation.

Read more: Ronnie Kessel’s insider guide to St Moritz

JS: There’s a balance between the rational, the emotional and the relational, but perhaps most important is the balance. If you make the best products – you have the best quality and the finest ateliers – but you don’t have emotion, then you are not a luxury brand. Luxury is about balance: between a uniquely made world and multiple local consumers, between long-term heritage and short-term fashion, between people who want to stand out and people who want to fit in. This, for me, is where luxury excels. When a brand can cater to super VIPs and also democratise, they’ve found that balance.

Jonathan Siboni in action at Talks with Financial Times

DS: If you walk down the Champs-Elysées during Art Basel Paris in October, every luxury store has an installation. Have luxury brands more overtly embraced art?

BE: Absolutely, because luxury brands need art to highlight that culture is heritage, to foster contemporary creativity, to enhance brand image and to establish institutional legitimacy.

JS: Many luxury products are art pieces. And maybe, in 50 years, some artists will be part of Comité Colbert – they will have developed as a business, and we will view them differently. There’s a difference today between artists and luxury: the day Picasso died, Picasso’s brand died. Artists can produce and make money, yet there is no business survival. Christian Dior trained people to reinterpret his style under his name, and maybe in 50 years it will be the same with artists – people will replicate style through a studio.

BE: Museums today regularly showcase the creations of luxury maisons, and no one asks whether it is art or luxury. I particularly remember the magnificent exhibitions of Dior, Van Cleef & Arpels, or more recently Christofle at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

In 2011, the Comité Colbert created the European Cultural and Creative Industry Alliance, which brings together the national luxury associations of Italy, Spain, Portugal, Sweden, Germany and England

JS: A question for brands today is: how do you stand out? Yes, my brand has a better legacy. Yes, I make better products. But on a screen where people focus for 1.5 seconds, how do I win their attention? My feeling is you don’t want to win the game, you want to continue playing. You change the way you interact, become more involved and collaborate more with entertainment.

Read more: Meet the next generation philanthropists

DS: Bénédicte, how do you see Comité Colbert in 2050?

BE: My vision for Comité Colbert is of a much more open organisation. At the moment, we only have luxury companies as members, based on a 19th-century definition of craftsmanship. It’s not an outdated definition, but for me it’s not modern enough. My dream is to open the organisation to startups in the luxury space – even AI, because it brings its own creatives and digital artisans. It would be great to welcome virtual craftsmanship. That’s my dream for the future: to open our doors to all companies creating luxury experiences.

This article also appears in the Winter 2026 issue of LUX magazine.

Series coordinator: Charlotte Martin. Online editor: Cleo Scott. Chief sub-editor: Marion Jones.

This article was first published in the Winter 2026 print issue of LUX. Read this continuing series of LUX x Luxurynsight Dialogues monthly online at LUX magazine

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A display by Bengaluru-based artist Kaimurai at the Rajmahal School, which has an ancient temple onsite

The first ever Jodhpur Arts Week, running October 1st until the 7th, launches under the theme Hath Ro Hunar (or, ‘skill of the hand’). Curated by Tapiwa Matsinde and Sakhshi Mahajan, the week of exhibitions, installations, and panel discussions aims to foreground the city’s living crafts heritage amongst Jodhpur’s landmarks and public spaces – while also challenging the artistic hierarchies we see in the art market today

Invited artists such as Chila Kumari Burman, Gaspard Combes, Aku Zeliang, and the Raqs Media Collective, have worked alongside Jodhpur’s craftspeople using metalwork, weaving, embroidery, stone carving, and more, to create works that will be displayed across Jodhpur’s major sites. Rather than positioning contemporary artists above local makers, the festival frames artisans as co-authors, giving them visible credit in the creative process. This is a true collaboration: between artists, makers, and the city.

The work of Aphra Shemza displayed at Ghanta Ghar, the ancient clock tower at Jodhpur

The week features installations, exhibitions, workshops, panel discussions, and participatory projects scattered across Jodhpur’s heritage sites and public spaces. Public programmes include artist walk-throughs, community craft and food walks, and craft workshops such as weaving recycled fabrics, drypoint printmaking, ittar (traditional perfume) making, and musical instrument adaptation.

Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine

The inaugural week saw a whirlwind of international art patrons, collectors and curators arriving, many of them flying in from Europe, West Asia and East Asia. Uber-curator and collector Amin Jaffer joined the attendees, as did LUX Editor-in-Chief Darius Sanai, who  attended in his capacity as Chair of the Advisors to The Public Arts Trust of India, which is chaired by Sana Rezwan, the driving force behind the Arts Week.

A textile display by Dhaqan Collective inside the Ghantar Ghar clocktower

Curators Tapiwa Matsinde and Sakhshi Mahajan have emphasised that Hath Ro Hunar is not just about making objects, but also about recognition, equity, and sustainability. They see the festival as a testing ground for new modes of cultural programming – one in which craft is not left on the sidelines – and which value process, local knowledge, and shared authorship.

The work of Gaspard Combes at Mandore Garden, near the birthplace of Mandodari (Ravana’s wife in the classic epic of the Ramayana)

Saruha Kilaru, an up-and-coming artist and recent graduate from MA Print at Royal College of Art, exhibiting at Shree Sumer School

Artist Laxmipriya Panigrahi, represented by Anant Art Gallery, exhibiting at the Shree Sumer School

jodhpurartsweek.com

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Below the Grace Hotel is Stuvetta Moritz, where the menu is an ode to Swiss comfort – Engadiner cheese fondue, rösti and Zürcher Geschnetzeltes refined

We visit the coolest fondue spot in St Moritz – and enjoy some healthy options and a great vibe

Waltz into The Grace, the first new five star hotel in St Moritz since the time the dinosaurs ruled the Earth, or at least since they ruled the Cresta Run down the road, skip downstairs from the contemporary Alp-chic lobby and you enter the 1980s chalet-style Stuvetta Moritz.

In December 2024, Stüvetta Moritz was redesigned by the Berlin-based interior designer Fabian Freytag

A fondue restaurant with a modern twist in the shape of its cool dude-and-chick clientele, music and vibe, Stuvetta also has a useful cocktail list and a menu refreshing for its selection of lighter offerings as well as the usual full-nuclear Swiss fondue.

Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine

We started with a poached egg from nearby Poschiavo with some delicious grated truffle, and a plate of local deer carpaccio with baby spinach, cranberry and truffle dressing.

Swiss traditions meet contemporary twists at Stuvetta Moritz, and fondue meets more than just bread in their signature Fish Fondue

For the main, you can choose a fish fondue – salmon, seabass, prawns, or kingfish – but we chose to share another healthy option: fondue of beef fillet and chicken breast.

Read more: Megu, Gstaad review

Both were beautifully lean, and we cooked them ourselves in bouillon served with a host of home-made sauces. A protein fondue with broth – a far cry from the gorgeous but less wellness-orientated cheese and bread tradition (which did look incredibly tempting).

Stuvetta Moritz offers a cosy meal alongside views of Lake St Moritz

Wines from the nearby Bündner Herrschaft, Switzerland’s best kept wine secret, complimented. The vibe, even in summer, was fun.

stuvetta-moritz.com

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