Bas van Kranen, Executive Chef of Restaurant Flore at Hotel De L’Europe in Amsterdam

Dutch chef Bas van Kranen has redefined fine dining throughout his career at restaurants Bord’Eau and Flore, introducing plant-forward menus with a focus on sustainability – and earning two Michelin stars along the way. In a conversation with LUX, he tells us about his beginnings as a chef, his inspirations in Dutch agriculture, and the future of micro-seasonality in fine dining

LUX: You started your career quite young at 14, after a dinner at a Two-Michelin-Star restaurant. What was the name of the restaurant and the food that night, and how did it spark your passion?

Bas van Kranen: I actually didn’t eat there. I started working behind the dishwasher. The restaurant was Da Vinci in Maasbracht, just two streets away from where I grew up. At 14, I knocked on the door and asked Margot Reuten if I could get a job in the dish pit, because I wanted to become a chef.

The outside of Restaurant Flore, where sustainability meets fine dining in a serene, Michelin-starred setting.

From that moment, I was completely absorbed by the rhythm, the ambition, the quality of the food, and the service. It was like entering a different world. I had been fascinated by food since I was six. There are so many photos of me smiling with something edible in my hands. Working at Da Vinci set the tone for everything that came after. It showed me what was possible when passion meets discipline, and it gave my ambition a clear shape: this is what I wanted to do with my life.

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LUX: And now you’re known as one of the youngest chefs in the Netherlands. What would 14-year-old-you say if he saw where you are now?

BVK: He would probably be amazed. But I think he’d also recognise the drive. I consider myself lucky to have a mindset that doesn’t settle. The moment a goal is reached, I’m already looking forward to the next. What matters to me today is the idea that anything you choose to do, you should do it as well as you possibly can. Whether it’s a simple salad, a sandwich, or a bunch of flowers on a table. If it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing well.

The beautifully curated interior of Flore

LUX: Flore is reopening and many are excited – but what inspired the name? Can you define the meaning behind ‘Flore’?

BVK: The name ‘Flore’, derived from flora, meaning ‘blossoming’, encapsulates the essence of our culinary philosophy. It represents the plant kingdom and the unfolding of flavours in each dish. The name speaks directly to our vegetable-forward approach and our connection to the natural rhythms of Dutch agriculture. Just like plants flourish under the right conditions, we believe flavours should be allowed to express themselves at their natural peak.

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LUX: With the reopening, the interior and design have also been renovated. What elements and inspirations shaped the new space?

‘It’s all about harmony between the food, the space, and the story we’re telling’ – Bas van Kranen

BVK: We wanted the design to reflect the same values as our food: rooted, natural, and intentional. Together with Reiters-Wings Studio, we used carbon-negative materials inspired by traditional building methods, for example, lime and hemp plastered walls. The ceiling undulates like the Amstel River, bringing a sense of movement and locality. The furniture is reclaimed wood, and we designed the ‘Flore Chair’ in collaboration with Tim Reiters to complement our vision. It’s all about harmony between the food, the space, and the story we’re telling.

LUX: The phrase ‘conscious fine dining’ – how would you define that, and how does it live at Flore?

BVK: Conscious fine dining means making the best possible decisions at every step, not just in cooking, but in sourcing, design, and service. At Flore, we work with hyperlocal ingredients, maintain a deep fermentation program to minimise waste, and collaborate closely with biodynamic growers across the Netherlands. We aim to prove that true luxury isn’t about imported rarity but about care, quality and proximity. Conscious fine dining shifts the focus from status to substance, from exclusivity to integrity.

Culinary innovation is at the heart of Flore, seen in this transformed risotto dish

LUX: Your travels have influenced your cuisine – how do you translate those inspirations into your dishes?

BVK: Travel for me is about learning techniques and principles, not copying flavours. Spending time with different cultures around the globe has taught me a huge amount about balance, fermentation, restraint and seasonality. Japanese cooking in particular has influenced how we draw out deep flavour with minimal intervention. We don’t recreate dishes from other cultures. Instead, we use those techniques to express Dutch ingredients in a new and more meaningful way.

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LUX: What country has been your favourite to visit, and what dish did it inspire?

BVK: Japan has made the deepest impression. The culture is rooted in respect, technique, and nature. It’s incredibly refined. Right now I’m studying how to age and refine seaweeds, the way Japanese chefs have been working with kombu for hundreds of years. It’s like a new language of flavour. That’s the beauty of it. It never ends.

No dish is repeated at Flore; each dish is made using local and seasonal produce

LUX: Flore was named ‘Vegetable Restaurant of the Year’ in 2024 and holds two Michelin stars and a Green Star. What did those awards mean to you, and are there any other recognitions you aspire to?

BVK: Receiving two Michelin stars and a Green Star within eight months of reopening was incredibly affirming. The ‘Vegetable Restaurant of the Year’ recognition meant a lot, not just for us, but for the shift it represents. It shows that a plant-led menu can lead the conversation in fine dining. We’re not chasing more titles. What we want is to help redefine what excellence means in our field, to set a new standard that includes responsibility alongside creativity.

LUX: Why did you decide that no dish would be repeated, and that the menu would evolve constantly throughout the season?

‘The space, the interaction, the materials, the sound – everything is designed to support what’s happening on the plate’ – Bas van Kranen

BVK: It’s a direct response to our commitment to Dutch micro-seasonality. We work closely with nature and producers, adjusting our menu every week based on shifts in weather, soil and harvest. This keeps us creatively alive and allows us to present each ingredient at its absolute peak. It also invites guests into a specific moment, one that can’t be repeated. That kind of authenticity is powerful.

LUX: What changes do you see in the dining habits of your guests?

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BVK: There’s a noticeable shift towards conscious dining. Guests are more curious, more engaged. They want to know where things come from, how they’re made, and what they represent. There’s also more openness toward plant-based options and non-alcoholic pairings. We’re seeing a move away from the old markers of luxury, toward something more thoughtful and personal. That’s very encouraging.

LUX: Is there a generational difference in what people like to eat?

Some seasonal produce used to create the ever-changing menu at Flore

BVK: Younger guests are often more fluent in sustainability. They’re excited by fermentation, by unusual vegetables, by zero-waste thinking. But across generations, we see a growing interest in real food stories and a willingness to step away from what’s expected. Older guests sometimes have deeper emotional connections to traditional ingredients, which leads to interesting conversations. What unites everyone is a deeper awareness of the impact of food.

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LUX: How important is the overall experience beyond what’s on the plate?

BVK: They’re inseparable. The space, the interaction, the materials, the sound – everything is designed to support what’s happening on the plate. We want guests to feel a shift when they walk through the door, a kind of transition into a more grounded, present moment. Conscious fine dining is about mindfulness as much as taste. When all elements are in alignment, the experience becomes something you carry with you.

The entrance to Flore: ‘We want guests to feel a shift when they walk through the door, a kind of transition into a more grounded, present moment’ – Bas van Kranen

LUX: Who are your culinary heroes?

BVK: Dan Barber, for his work on agriculture and flavour. René Redzepi, for changing the way we think about fine dining. Yoshihiro Narisawa, for translating nature so elegantly onto the plate. And Jonnie Boer, who has been putting Dutch ingredients like magnolia, wild duck, crayfish and pikeperch on the map for over 25 years. I have great respect for that.

LUX: If you could be transported anywhere in the world to eat and drink anything, what would it be, and with whom?

BVK: I’d go to one of the remote Japanese islands with my partner Roos and our close friends. Somewhere in the forest, overlooking the sea. We’d grill freshly caught fish, open a pot of aged miso, and make a salad from Japanese seasonal greens. And we’d drink a bottle of Nichi Nichi sake – one of the best I’ve ever tasted. That’s the dream. Good food, natural surroundings, and people you love around you.

restaurantflore.com

Geranium Head Chef, Co-owner, Rasmus Kofoed. Photo Credit Claes Bech-Poulsen

Rasmus Kofoed, star chef of three Michelin-starred Geranium in Copenhagen, is influencing an entire generation of young chefs to feel confident in offering haute cuisine based on strictly vegetarian principles. During the pandemic, he temporarily opened Angelika, a restaurant within Geranium, with a wholly plant-based menu.

LUX: After bronze and silver, how important was it to you to finally win the Bocuse d’Or?
Rasmus Kofoed: I did it because I wanted to win; that was the first priority. Winning was great, but I enjoyed the process leading up to the competition very much. You develop, you create new ideas, you optimise what you do. It was everything around the competition that I enjoyed.

LUX: What did you change between winning the bronze in 2005 and the gold in 2011?
RK: I think I was more confident with what I loved to cook and eat myself. It was totally based on Nordic and Danish ingredients, like wild forest garlic, elderflowers and lump fish roe. We had just opened Geranium at the same time as I won the competition and a lot of the elements that I made at Geranium I used in the competition, just combining them in a new way.

desserts at Geranium including milk chocolate and rose hip petals, and chocolate egg and pine

LUX: Having won the gold, and with a three Michelin-star restaurant, do you have any unfulfilled ambitions left?
RK: Not really. Of course, I enjoy achieving those prizes, and the motivation is very good for the team as well, but I enjoy the training. I also enjoy the days which focus on the work leading up to creating a great experience for the guests. I don’t think about the awards when I’m here. I think more about how we can optimise everything and how we can work better with the team, and create a better work–life balance. That’s the priority. If you’re happy, it’s easier to make others happy.

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LUX: What does a better work–life balance for the team look like?
RK: We just focus on it a bit more. We did not let anyone go because we wanted to keep them; they are a part of the future and we believe in them. Another thing is to try to balance all the working hours, eat a lot of vegetables. They also have gym memberships and that’s very important. It’s not a secret – if you feel good, it’s easier to make others feel good.

The dining room at Geranium

LUX: Do you think that vegetarian restaurants like Angelika will be the way forward, given the climate crisis and the pressure to reduce meat?
RK: I think so, and that’s why I opened Angelika. It was a year ago and I could not just go back and open Geranium like we normally did. I felt that, after the first lockdown, we needed to do something different. I’d been on a plant-based diet for the last year and a half, so I was very much into that way of cooking, which is not easy, but when you can do it, it just feels good. I also wanted to pass on my love and care for the planet, and health, to other people. That’s why we opened Angelika: to inspire people to eat more vegetables.

LUX: How has your relationship with sustainability evolved over the years?
RK: I live in the countryside, so I am very close to the forest and to the sea, the ocean and nature, which I really enjoy. It’s very peaceful to go out there and I think it’s something we all need to do sometimes.

I focus a lot more on it at home, but it’s something we care a lot about at Geranium. You can always be better, but we use a lot of biodynamically farmed vegetables, and in that way of farming you give good energy and vitamins back to the soil, not just take them out, and that’s a good mentality, to treat Mother Earth with respect.

Crispy Jerusalem artichoke leaves and pickled walnut leaves

LUX: Where did your love of working with vegetables stem from?
RK: I was raised eating biodynamic vegetables because my mother was vegetarian and she wanted to give the best and healthiest food to her kids. It’s something I’ve been using for a long time, not because it’s trendy, or for PR. I do it because I care and think it’s important to look after the planet. At Angelika, the idea was very much ‘from kitchen to table’, not spending a lot of time plating. At first, it was difficult for the chefs, because they’re used to working with tweezers and taking their time, but you need to be faster, otherwise you lose the energy in the food.

Grilled lobster, elderflower and dried onion

LUX: How did the pandemic affect you professionally?
RK: If it wasn’t for the pandemic, we would have never opened Angelika. It was because of the lockdown that I was saying that we need to open a plant-based restaurant. Since I was on a plant-based diet myself, I wanted to show people that plant-based cooking can be delicious and healthy at the same time, and that you can actually have a great meal, and feel good in your body after. A lot of horrible things happened because of the lockdowns and the coronavirus, but Angelika was this green shoot growing out of the dark times.

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LUX: What legacy do you hope to leave on the culinary world?
RK: I do it because I love my craft. I love to be in the kitchen, with the energy, the flavours. I love creating new ideas, new ways to serving things. I enjoy cooking delicious food, but I also enjoy eating something which is good for my spirit, my body. As the ancient Greeks said: “Food should be your medicine, and let the medicine be your food.” I love to inspire with my love for the green kitchen.

Rasmus Kofoed is head chef and co-owner of Geranium in Copenhagen. Angelika is temporarily opening on special dates.

geranium.dk

This article appears in the Summer 2022 issue of LUX

The colourful buildings of Nyhavn

A young writer’s view on why Copenhagen makes such an impression; and her pick of six hip young Danes, talking about why their capital is the best city in the world. And, no, it’s not about the hygge

By Ella Johnson

Copenhagen is fast becoming the coolest Scandinavian kid on the block. A fashion hub and destination of culinary excellence, Denmark’s capital is making waves around the world. And at the centre of it all? Its youth.

Copenhagen has an undeniable sense of vitality; it is a place where young people can challenge ideals and rewrite the rules. And what’s more, everyone appears to be tall, slim and stylish. Yet their mutual winning of the genetic lottery is the only thing these natives share in common. Each person dresses exquisitely and uniquely, oozing an innate personal style. Earthy hues keep these otherworldly urbanites grounded, whilst androgynous silhouettes nod towards a progressive society. And what’s refreshing is that none can be seen tottering on sky-high stilettos or wielding impractical handbags – the Danes dress for themselves and comfort is key. (Hint: if it can’t be worn on a bicycle, don’t wear it.)

So what’s the driving force behind this unrivalled style and nonchalance? You would probably guess hygge, and you may be right, although this overused term doesn’t even begin to get there. My concept of hygge is much more than ‘cosiness’ and woolly jumpers – it underpins culture as a whole. Egalitarian by nature, Danish society is people-oriented. It has nurtured its youth and they are thriving; Copenhagen is full of inventive young people simply living in the moment. Whilst navigating the bustling streets no-one can be seen brusquely pushing through the crowds, urgently trying to get somewhere else. It has been said that the journey is as important as the destination, and in no other place has this phrase rung so true. The Copenhagen kids are the ones to watch. Don’t just take my word for it – they’re here to prove it.

Mathilde Topsøe

Mathlide Topsøe

Mathilde is a 21-year-old student at Copenhagen Business School and has been working as a model part time for 5 years.

Describe your generation.

The youth are characterised by their passion for whatever interests them.

What makes Copenhagen special?

Somehow, the city has managed to stay very local – the atmosphere here is really something. The different neighborhoods [Nørrebro, Central Copenhagen, Vesterbro and Frederiksberg] all contribute something unique, making the city fit for everyone. Copenhagen tends to steal people’s hearts – it has mine, anyway!

Where are your favourite places to go?

If you ever find yourself in Copenhagen, take a walk to St. Ann’s place, have a coffee at Union Kitchen and then walk to the Amalienborg Castle. In the summer hang out at Ofelia Beach with music, street food shops and ice cream. The Meatpacking District [Kødbyen] is also a cool area with lots of great restaurants. My favorite is Gorilla, which serves new Nordic food in small portions so that you can share and taste a little bit of everything.

Where do young people go out?

Chateau Motel and Arch are the best clubs in town, while Balthazar and Ruby’s make great cocktails. My favourite wine bar is Nebbiolo, where you can share a platter of Italian specialties with a good bottle of wine.

Are you a typical Copenhagener? 

I’m terrible at using my bicycle, which is very atypical! But I feel like a real Copenhagener on Sundays when all the shops are closed. The city is very quiet and all the people walking the streets are locals. That’s when I feel truly local.

Levino Tvarnø

21-year-old Levino lives on Amager, an island that forms part of the city, and works as a pub manager. He has always lived in Copenhagen and insists he will never leave.

Levino Tvarnø

What’s the best thing about Copenhagen?

The rugged beauty in its architecture. My favourite building is Vor Frelsers Kirke [a baroque church, famous for its helix spire with extensive views over the city centre] – I think of it as the Danish Eiffel Tower!

Where do young people like to hang out?

A lot of young people go out at the weekend to Christiania. It’s a free state in Copenhagen – organised crime at its best!

How important is fashion to Copenhageners?

It’s quite common not to care about fashion in Denmark – sometimes it’s cooler not to.

Denmark was voted number one in the World Happiness Report for the third time last year. Do you agree with this?

I don’t personally see us as very happy people. I’d say the Danish are quite cynical! No one talks to each other on the bus or at the supermarket – people conversation. But there’s no doubt I’ve had awesome experiences with strangers. If we got voted the happiest nation, I’m not complaining!

Karla Bak

Karla is 15 years old and attends a boarding school in Oure.

Karla Bak

What’s the best thing about Copenhagen?

The people. It’s a city that never sleeps! No matter what the time is, you’ll always see someone walking down the street.

Where do you hang out with your friends?

We like to be in the middle of everything – you’ll often find us at a café in the centre of Copenhagen on a street called Læderstræde. My absolute favourite is Café Zirup.

How would you describe your generation?

The Danish teenagers are quite wild. Our society is very relaxed – we can buy weak alcohol from 16, but we start drinking even earlier. We’re known as the teenagers who drink the most in Europe.

Do you think it’s a good thing that you can access alcohol from such a young age?

I do. Most teenagers here are very independent. We’ve grown up learning how to take care of ourselves.

What influences the way you dress?

I don’t care what people think of me. I dress to look good and to be the best version of myself, but if someone has a negative opinion about my clothes or me in general, I couldn’t care less.

What are your hopes for the future?

I’d really like to work with people – maybe those with social issues. My mother died a few months ago and she worked with a lot of different people in her life – prostitutes and drug-addicts, for example.

Celine Nyegaard

Celine is an 18-year-old student who lives in Vesterbrø. She has recently set up her own company, Valencia, selling T-shirts and hoodies using her own prints.

What inspired you to start your business?

I’ve always been a creative soul and couldn’t find a job in Copenhagen. I wanted to make some money and then I got the idea – there’s definitely a gap in the market for cool, simple t-shirts that aren’t as expensive as the big brands.

Celine Nyegaard

Is Copenhagen good for fashion?

In recent years it has definitely become more of a fashion hub. Fashion houses are popping up everywhere and there’s a great range of shops.

Where can you find the best food?

We have a market called Torvehallerne, which is like a big food court, where you can get all kinds of food. In Vesterbrøthere’s the Meatpacking District with great restaurants, too.

What’s your favourite thing about Copenhagen?

Whenever I walk through the centre, I almost always meet someone I know. It’s such a small place, but there are so many opportunities.

Anton Thiemke

Anton is 19 years old and in his final year at high school. He lives in central Copenhagen and works in a coffee shop, Henckell, in his spare time.

Anton Thiemke

What’s the most striking thing about Copenhagen?

Definitely the youth culture. I don’t know how to explain it. Creativity is a big thing for young people here; you can drop out of school and go study whatever you want for free. There are so many opportunities.

Is fashion important to you?

Of course! It’s very important to Copenhagen kids. There has to be some distinction in what you’re wearing here.  You have to wear what you think is cool – but not just because some cool rapper wears it. That’s what’s great about the people around me – they don’t care what other people wear. Young people are very creative.

Where do you and your friends hang out?

We spend a lot of time at nightclubs. One of my friends is opening a one right next to where I live, so I’m going to be there a lot!

Randi Mølmark

Randi Mølmark is 24 years old and hopes to study Film and Media Science at the University of Copenhagen.

Randi Mølmark, trave

What makes Copenhagen a great place?

I love that it has both modern and mid-19th Century elements. With great artists like Hans Christian Andersen and film director Carl Theodor Dreyer, it’s definitely an inspiring place.

Are you a typical Copenhagener? Do you ride a bike?

Do I ride a bike?! It’s like asking someone if they breathe! A bike is a necessity in Copenhagen.

How would you describe your generation?

We’re very relaxed about a lot of things.  Creativity is huge for us – we get a lot of support from our society, especially when it comes to art, which allows us to just follow our dreams.

Where do you and your friends go out in Copenhagen?

Everything closes at 5am when it comes to partying so young people are out all night! My favourite bar is McJoy’sChoice [on the Nyhavn waterfront] with good beer and great people. If you want an amazing hot dog just go to the local stands all over Copenhagen. But the best place is Tivoli. It’s a magical park in the middle of the city with rides and food, and in the evening it’s just beautiful.

LUX will be back to report more in-depth on the Copenhagen scene very soon, so watch this space.