Man with arms crossed over table

“Living in Beiruit has significantly influenced and enriched my creative journey, especially during the cosmopolitna era of the 1970s”

Elie Saab’s self-made fashion empire has spawned a world of luxury beloved by many of the world’s wealthiest and most discerning women. LUX speaks to the Lebanese couturier and entrepreneur

Elie Saab has achieved the supposedly unachievable. The designer has built his independent fashion brand, which has its origins in his home country of Lebanon, into a multimillion-dollar lifestyle business. At its heart is luxurious clothing desired by some of the world’s wealthiest, and most discriminating, women – indeed, Saab was the star of a recent Paris Haute Couture week.

He speaks to LUX Editor-in-Chief Darius Sanai about how he overcame cultural and commercial challenges to thrive in this most challenging of industries, by focusing on simply creating beauty.

LUX: Your family had to leave your home when you were a child during the civil war in Lebanon. Did this devastation and disruption affect who you are professionally today?

Elie Saab: I was in Lebanon throughout the war. We left Damour, a southern area, for Beirut because it wasn’t safe any more. My family lost their homes and jobs, and that forced me to take on responsibilities early in life and work to support my family. This led me to discover my passion, which eventually became my career.

Woman in a pink sequin dress walking down a runway

Elie Saab began his career by designing intricate bridal gowns, gradually expanding his business on an international scale.

LUX: How do you weave the story of Lebanon, a country of beauty, history and tragedy, into your designs?

ES: Our culture and heritage shape who we are and I draw constant inspiration from them. Living in Beirut has significantly influenced and enriched my creative journey, especially during the cosmopolitan era of the 1970s. The elegance of Lebanese women during that time has strongly influenced my designs. I blend Lebanon’s essence with the charm of the Mediterranean in my creations.

LUX: You focus on femininity, beauty and celebrating royalty, even though these have gone in and out of fashion. Do you consider trends or prefer to do what you like?

ES: When I create, I think of a dress that is timeless; a dress that can be passed down from mother to daughter. The ultimate goals are for a woman who tries on my dress to feel confident and to highlight her femininity. I always want her to feel sublime.

Sketch of a pink dress

Sketch for LUX by Elie Saab.

LUX: How important was the invitation by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to join it in 2003?

ES: I would say the first milestone was in 1997 when I was invited to showcase my work in Rome at the Camera Nazionale della Moda, as the only non-Italian designer. After that, I decided to present my work in Paris and that is when I received the invitation of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. This shift was another milestone for my career; I became one of the earliest non-French designers to receive such an invitation, following in the footsteps of Valentino, Armani and Versace. This major step enabled me to expand my business and step into a bigger spotlight.

Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine

LUX: Fashion is a tough business and many talented designers have failed commercially. What does it take to succeed?

ES: This field is becoming more and more challenging. You have to distinguish yourself from the competition with a unique product. I aim to highlight the beauty of women. What we offer is wearable and classic pieces. Reaching that stage was not easy. Elie Saab has evolved into a lifestyle brand, catering to a diverse audience with different lines ranging from haute couture to ready-to-wear, perfumes and Elie Saab Maison, an entity of its own.

Woman in a silver sequin dress with a black background

Beyoncé wearing an Elie Saab Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023 gown during her Renaissance world tour, 2023.

LUX: What have been your greatest challenges? What was the worst time?

ES: We always face challenges, they’re part of the journey to success. With no challenges come no rewards. The important thing is to learn from them. I don’t dwell on the past. I choose to take lessons from it and move forward.

LUX: How much has social media and online shopping changed the fashion business, both commercially and aesthetically?

ES: It has definitely made a big difference. I think social media is a powerful tool to promote your business. It gives you so much visibility and exposure in such a short time, which wasn’t possible before. It opens up amazing opportunities, especially giving a platform to young and emerging designers who are working hard to make their way into this industry. Yet social media can be tricky, and it is important not to confuse virtuality with reality. In a day you can go viral, so it’s important to stay consistent and true to yourself.

Read more: Two key players in British fashion raise the game for personal shopping

LUX: You looked delighted at your recent haute couture show in Paris, after the rapturous reception for Jennifer Lopez. How important are reactions to what you do?

ES: The amount of positive feedback from the press, social media and clients was, of course, very important. It reaffirmed the importance of the collection itself and how well it resonated with our audience. J.Lo was stunning as always and chose a look from the runway. The level of stress remains constant, regardless of the number of shows, until I receive reviews from clients, audience and the press. Positive feedback always boosts motivation to do more.

Woman in a flower dress with an orange background

Jennifer Lopez at the Elie Saab Haute Couture SS24 show wearing a floor-length feathered Elie Saab cape.

LUX: You have said you were born with a vision of beauty. What would you have been if you had not been a designer?

ES: I would have become an architect. I love designing and creating. This passion expanded in 2020 when we launched Elie Saab Maison and real-estate projects, aiming to reach a wider audience and evolve into a lifestyle brand.

LUX: What’s next in the evolution of Elie Saab?

ES: We are on a roll to keep expanding, whether it’s in different house lines or in undertakings such as real estate. In 2024, we have various projects in the pipeline, such as expanding our boutiques, network and lines. There is always something to look forward to.

eliesaab.com

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Reading time: 5 min
Sophia Kah Fashion

Fashion designer Ana Teixeira de Sousa began working with textiles at a very young age, making dresses for her dolls in her grandmother’s textile factory in Portugal. Launched in 2011, her luxury womenswear label Sophia Kah (named after her grandmother) is now global, with pieces sold in Harrods, London, and Barneys, New York. Her evening dresses have adorned the red carpet on celebrities such as Kiera Knightley and Ruth Wilson. With no formal training, Ana uses techniques and family secrets to design lightweight lace dresses with her signature exposed drawstring corsetry, silk organza and leather panel additions. The evening-wear designer talks to Kitty Harris about conjuring her female muses and design secrets.

LUX: What’s your wardrobe staple?
Anna Teixeira: A black lace dress and leather jacket.

LUX: How would you describe your design aesthetic?
AT: Modernised classic with a twist, very feminine and sophisticated.

LUX: Your design signatures include corsetry and lace for “cultured strong-minded women”. How do you keep your designs feminine yet strong?
AT: I think woman can be both feminine yet strong – there’s nothing stronger and more empowering than a super feminine fitted black lace dress.

LUX: How do you create designs that are both relevant and timeless?
AT: It’s not an easy job but I believe you create timeless pieces when you use great materials, a flawless finish and exceptional cuts.

Read next: Which is the best modern classic Ferrari?

LUX: The Kah girls include the likes of Beyoncé, Keira Knightley and Sarah Jessica Parker. Does your approach to design differ when you have a particular woman in mind?
AT: No, my woman is very much present in my mind when I design. I always picture her – where she likes to go, what she likes to do, what she believes in, how she sees the world and what inspires her. Based on my muse, I then design her wardrobe; she is obviously always evolving because the world is so dynamic.

LUX: You name your pieces: the ‘Marie Victoire’ from SS’17, the ‘Sharlene’ from your signature collection and ‘Violet’ from your AW16. Why?
AT: Each collection we dream up a woman – SS17 she was a French girl living between France and Mexico with a strong passion for architecture.

LUX: Why did you choose renowned architect Luis Barragan as inspiration for your SS17 collection?
AT: I absolutely love his work, how he managed to work on colour is so inspiring.

LUX: Which techniques do you still use today that you learnt in your grandmother’s textile factory?
AT: There is still a great amount of hand work on my pieces. But the major secrets are on the construction of the pieces. The number of little tricks that goes inside each piece is tremendous.

LUX: What’s next for the brand?
AT: Continue to grow our presence worldwide sustainably.

sophiakah.com

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Reading time: 3 min