Two days are not enough to do this wonderful city justice, even when waking hours are extended by jet lag. But this is how most visitors experience India’s capital city, whether they are using Delhi as a holiday gateway to Rajasthan, the Himalayas or elsewhere, or, increasingly, as a business entry point to one of the world’s fastest growing economies.

As an India-junkie, I knew what to expect, but was surprised at how much less daunting everything was than on my last visit. The (completely full) daytime BA Business Class flight from London was as smooth as any I could remember and the pick up at the airport was equally soothing. Manoj arrived, white-gloved, white-tuniced and black-hatted, armed with cool towels and cold water. His smile was a good omen.

The Taj Mahal Hotel wears its 5 stars with a Mughal twist. At 30 years of age, it’s not an old hotel (and far from the most beautiful), but it occupies a prime site with, from the upper floors, a wonderful city vista. The alternative aspect, overlooking the pool, is less remarkable.

The room was a Deluxe King. Spick and span with everything you’d want for a short stay, although the bathrooms, beautifully fitted, were on the small side for one so spoilt. The typical Taj design aesthetic isn’t to everyone’s taste, but you can’t criticize the generous attention to detail. The 42” Samsungs are state-of-the-art, faxes in every room, desks, WiFi, beds are super comfortable, sheets are crisp, pillows just right, towels are thick and large, remote controls actually work and everything is spotlessly clean.

If you have a suite-tooth, the Presidential Suite is as vast as any corpulent industrialist or ego-fuelled politician would ever want, but my pick of the rooms are the newly refurbished Executive Suites – especially ones with a Presidential Palace view. These are spacious junior suites, clean-lined, coolly upholstered with lashings of leather and large white marble bathrooms.

The public spaces buzz with a melange of international grand-tourists, businessmen and local socialites. The impeccable staff float about attending to everyone’s slightest whim; girls in red saris or salwar kameez, men in dark suits.

The food’s always great at Taj hotels. With the European-style Grill Room on the top floor, House of Ming offering Sechuan and Cantonese cuisine, we chose the new Japanese restaurant, Wasabi, with fish flown in daily from the world’s finest fish market at Tsukiji, Central Tokyo. The food is Nobugood, without exaggeration. We enjoyed excellent nigiri sushi and rolls, washed down with 2004 Schlumberger Riesling.

Much is changing on the sub-Continent and Taj is keeping pace, but while this aesthetic adventurer welcomes design evolution, the magical service must never change.

Read the full review and book online at www.luxuryexplorer.com