Not only is Thimphu’s city-life intriguing by the very fact that it is constantly evolving but also nearby are some of the most auspicious sites tucked within and atop that gloriously unscathed landscape. A short drive out and a waterfall splashes onto a glistening rockmural of the Guru Rinpoche while fluttering prayer flags line up their white and multicoloured promises amidst a flurry of verdant forests. We hiked up, together with a Taj Tashi guide, to a most remarkable 13th century monastery, Tango.

The strikingly coloured saffron and charcoal façade of the Taj Tashi is dramatically dzong in appearance, adhering to stringent local law regarding building aesthetics, and sits smack in the heart of Thimphu. With 66 gloriously designed, finely appointed, mountain facing suites and rooms, plus a sensational spa, the hotel is set to become one of Bhutan’s, if not South East Asia’s, most sought after luxury landmarks.

Outside, the urban-bustle is intense; inside, the soothing calm is a tranquil balm. This airy aura is enhanced by three visual themes or motifs that flow artistically throughout the hotel: the dhungs (long brass pipes with a sound that goose-bumps the hardest of skin follicles); the clouds (the kingdom above the clouds); the doubledorjes (indestructibility and destruction of negative forces). The sky soaring five stars at the Taj Tashi have been polished with outstanding results.

On the first night of Taj Tashi hosted delights our senses were treated and indulged to a mesmerising whirl of song and dance followed by a cornucopian Bhutanese banquet that remains one of the most exceptional meals of my life. With stars, butter lamps, and a roaring sunken fire as our light, we sat on silk cushions on the terrace, facing the mountain and the exquisitely hand etched brass prayer wheel that houses more than a billion mantras, quite captivated by our early evening revelry.

It seems that the perspicacious team at the Taj Tashi can organise almost anything.

On the ultimate night two of our most desired wishes for this stay in Bhutan transpired: an astrological reading and time with a renowned Rinpoche. After a promising reading we dined with Rinpoche Mynak Tulku, a high priest incarnate lama of Rikhud Monastery in Mynak, Eastern Tibet. Rinpoches have, it is believed, already completed their karmic cycle and therefore reached Nirvana. However, they return selflessly in order to assist the pandemic suffering inherent in humankind. When you meet Mynak Tulku you know this to be true.

When our ‘carriage’ arrived for Paro the melancholic tunes from a sweetly plucked dramneyn (lute-like instrument) pulled on our heartstrings. However, we knew we would return… as this is where you really do count your blessings.

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