Commissioned by Maharaja Umaid Singh, it was the world’s largest private residence when it was completed in 1943. The colossal sandstone edifice, with its 105-foot dome, looms over the ‘blue city’ of Jodhpur in Rajasthan. Its interior contains 347 rooms, a million square feet of marble and flamboyant art deco detailing.

India’s maharajas, or ‘great kings’, enjoyed enormous wealth and power throughout the British colonial era. But in 1971, years after India gained independence, the maharajas were forced to pay tax on their properties. Many of these kings had to sell their vast palaces along with their ancestors’ priceless heirlooms.

Thankfully there was at least one maharaja savvy enough to hold on to his inherited treasures. Gaj Singh II, the grandson of Umaid Singh, transformed part of Umaid Bhawan Palace into a luxury hotel, now managed by the esteemed Taj group. Another section was retained as a royal residence – the maharaja’s family still occupies a private wing.

As soon as my girlfriend and I arrived at the palace, we were escorted to the centrepiece of the 26-acre complex – the palpitation-inducing rotunda. Standing inside the space is like walking around Manhattan; you’re compelled to look upwards. Meaty slabs of sandstone are embellished with geometric deco details and carvings of winged beasts and Roman orders. It all culminates in an elegant dome with a finish that’s as smooth as icing sugar.

Our ‘Historical Suite’ oozed art deco with its jagged-patterned rug, dark wood fittings and lashings of chrome, marble and exposed sandstone walls. The suite’s decidedly retro feel was consistent with the palace’s glamorous interwar aesthetic.

While the building itself exudes raw masculine power, the palace’s tranquil gardens are a welcome injection of feminine softness. A beautifully carved marble podium is surrounded by unfathomably lush grass, tidy shrubs and vine-covered trellises.

Utterly captivated by the grounds, we decided to dine at the alfresco restaurant, Pillars. As we tucked into our delicate lamb curries, a consummate sitar player serenaded us with exotic melodies. The crescendo of the evening was provided by an unexpected firework display which illuminated the brooding backdrop of Mehrangarh, Jodhpur’s spectacular clifftop fort.

It is this kind of fairytale extravagance that makes Umaid Bhawan a magnet for celebrities and royalty, from Madonna to Prince Charles. Yet the palace’s greatest triumph is its authenticity – Maharaja Umaid Singh’s original vision of deco indulgence has been meticulously preserved. Things may have changed since the days of the British Raj, but Umaid Bhawan Palace remains a citadel of princely opulence.

Read the full review and book online at www.luxuryexplorer.com