If you really believe that you should skip Thimphu because it may not be as ‘charming’ as the more isolated towns and villages of Bhutan, then think again. Would you avoid London, Paris, Rome... Prague? Capital cities are crucial to the understanding of a country and though Thimphu may not always have been the capital, it certainly is now. Besides, if you really do want to meet, face-to-future, with an eminent Rinpoche, or an intuitive astrologer, then it is here, in Thimphu, that you are most likely to do so.

We didn’t stay at Amankora in Thimphu (this time) as we had two incredible nights at the new Taj Tashi, which is located in the hub of the growing city. The full review will be covered in the next Top6Trips.

However, we visited Amankora in Thimphu twice, lunched both times, and ‘oohed’ and ‘ahhed’ with anticipated appreciation. The lodge is situated in the aromatic pine-laden hills above Thimphu, in a suburb equivalent to the ‘best’ in most people’s city/suburban vernacular. So it should be – it neighbours with the land of the four Queens. What’s more, it is secluded. The benefit of this is that Thimphu even though small and fascinating, is a city, and has noise pollution, like any other... and breeds dogs in rather unique numbers. I happen to love dogs, and these dogs, though feral, are totally charming with no aggression. No aggressors!

Situated in the capital, it also feels like the lodge that anchors the pilgrimage (not simply because you want to hole-up in the lodge’s boutique and ring your mortgage broker). It has gravitas in its awesome and symbolic dzong-inspired style of architecture and, it’s here, that you will come across some of Bhutan’s most influential and eminent citizens. Also, Thimphu has by far the greatest selection and widest variety of authentic, indigenous handicrafts and your guide will always steer you in the right direction according to your purchase requirements.

Despite the inevitable urban-expansion, the charm is still ubiquitous in the capital and the temples really are some of the most revered in Bhutan. The complexities of maintaining what we perceive to be a more ‘innocent’ way of life with that of a younger generation, tempted by greener pastures, are many-fold. However, this change is an important aspect of Bhutanese life today… and tomorrow.

Going full circle... On our final day in Bhutan, a magnetic pull for the Amankora in Paro had surreptitiously weaved its way into our psyche. The two of us, since day one, were now propitiously altered by day ten. We were unquestionably more relaxed, perhaps even a little more evolved, and, we were certainly more loving of humankind. We were also most definitely in better shape – all-round! Thank you Amankora...

Read the full review and book online at www.luxuryexplorer.com