Classical musicians eager to update their look are taking their cue from fashion houses more used to dressing Hollywood stars. The tux is out; soft tailoring is in

Once upon a time it was easy for classical musicians to dress. Tuxedo – check. Bow tie – check. Shiny shoes – check. All done. These days, though, as classical and modern music forms meld together, and orchestral and opera musicians sell themselves as much as rock stars do, the old rent-a-tux look is not enough. Female violin virtuoso Vanessa-Mae started the trend more than a decade ago by selling herself on her looks as well as her talent – and made the most of her album covers by posing in figure-hugging dresses. And now musicians, even male ones, are under pressure to be, well... sexy. These pictures show for the first time how one fashion house, Italy’s Ermenegildo Zegna, is bringing a new type of casual elegance to musicians aiming for a sleek new look. Zegna is gaining a reputation as the tailor of choice for many Hollywood stars, both on and off the screen. John Malkovich, Jeff Bridges and Hank Azaria have all been seen in sartorial Zegna wear – but now it’s extending its portfolio to singers and musicians as well.

And if you think suits when you think Zegna, think again. Yes, a significant part of its business is still dressing Middle Eastern gentlemen in immaculately tailored, if rather conservative, three-button two-pieces. Stylish they may be; sexy they are not.

But through lines such as Z Zegna, the familyowned Milanese label is also one of the direction leaders in menswear, and increasingly it’s in casual-chic Z Zegna that musicians are being seen. The connection between the two is the outstanding quality, hi-tech materials the fashion house is famed for.

Tenor José Carreras, bass-baritone opera singer Johan Reuter, and Mariinsky Theatre artistic director Valery Gergiev are all Zegna fans. Meanwhile Catalan conductor, maestro David Giménez, is being dressed by Zegna for his albums and concerts, as is the pop-classical tenor Cortes.

But isn’t the transition from tuxedo to casual wear a bit jarring? “You can’t suddenly put a tenor who’s been wearing a tuxedo for performing into a fitted crushed velvet two-piece suit,” admits Robin Coates, Zegna’s UK creative spokesman, who has personally dressed many of the above. “You need to work with the music company, listen to the music, and find something that works with the music.

“It’s very helpful that we have a huge array of fabrics – the last artist I dressed, whom I’m not allowed to name, was in a chocolate, two-button jacket with a modern peak lapel, with chocolate jeans. It was a very soft look.”

And it’s not just about using the most fashionable lines. “I like to mix the sartorial with Z Zegna elements,” says Coates, adding, “the musicians take to it really, really well. They’ve expressed themselves vocally, and maybe not thought so much about what they wear. It’s a new way to express themselves.”

So what’s Coates suggesting this summer for the musician in all of us? “It’s all about light knitwear suits and soft pastel colours. Say a soft cotton and linen shirt, with a pastel cashmere V-neck; or a three-button goatskin jacket in soft blue, with a sartorial cut, and kidskin suede loafers.”

It might shock part of the audience at La Scala, but for the rest of us, it sure beats a tuxedo. – Darius Sanai