After an evening of subliminal dining, Raymond offered to meet up for a ‘quick’ chat the following morning.
He is charming, passionate, and Herculean in his relentless pursuit of perfection; even his hands are almost char-grilled. Nearly three hours later we hugged ‘adieu’ and walked into the sun streaked dining room for more epicurean ecstasy.
Walking around the dreamy 17th Century manor house, and blissfully blooming gardens, you realise just how unique this place is. I can’t think of anywhere else in England where chef, chamber and land have synergised on such a successful scale. The grounds are exquisitely maintained under the green-fingers of head gardener Anne Marie Owens whom we met pruning peach coloured, divinely scented, roses.
We have been regular admirers of Le Manoir for many years and even tied the proverbial knot here in gob-smacking style in 1996. Since 1984, Raymond’s personal vision has materialised superbly, although this Great Milton- Oxfordshire-Franglaise-oasis continues to unravel its magical metamorphosis as ‘Raymond the zealot’ has an insatiable appetite for life, living and cuisine.
Food glorious food... I have never had a close to disappointing meal at Le Manoir, however I will say that the food seems to have climbed into another league, one that is most definitely worthy of three Michelin stars. This must be because Raymond is constantly striving for the ultimate experience for his guests and in the process he moves the goal posts of perfection.
With floodlight highlighting the glorious Cedar of Lebanon on the carpet-smooth lawn before us, we went from one outrageous taste-sensation to the next, in the soft light of the dining conservatory.
The Irish salmon tartar in salmon jelly with oscietra caviar was smooth and citrussy, almost refreshing and delightfully light leaving the doors well open for what was to follow. Next a risotto of home grown late spring garden vegetables and herbs, with grilled Sicilian tomatoes. Slightly al dente, a little crunchy, and flavoured immaculately. Stunning!
Then to the sea for some Cornish sea bream, lightly cooked with a fricassee of squid in a tasty bouillabaisse jus. We followed this with the assiette of ‘cochon de lait roti et son jus de cuisson”. It was close on the best ‘cochon’ I have ever tasted. The slice of ‘cochon’ is separated into layers, of the softest most succulent and flavoursome meat the world over, by thin wafers of crisp crackling, oozing succulent juices and ‘forbidden fat’. We ended our feast with a bowl of exquisitely fresh summer berries marinating sweetly in their piquant juices. The wines were a Guy Roulot Mersault and a Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin, both 2001.
Find out more and book direct with the hotel at www.luxuryexplorer.com
