Natasha Faruque samples the gastronomic delights of London, Paris and New York to discover which city holds the culinary crown
NEW YORK
LUX RATING: 18/20
WHERE TO SIP
You know you're one of New York's A-list when you gain entrance to Gramercy Park's private rooftop bar. Sit on the home-style wicker furniture, Belvedere Martini in hand, within a picture-perfect garden with ivy-laden trellises, orange trees and rose bushes. Later, move indoors and gaze upwards, taking in the spectacular light bulbencrusted ceiling (www.gramercyparkhotel.com). Wine lovers should head to Noble Food & Wine (7 Spring St, +1 212 777 0877), which elevates the wine-by-the-glass concept to a whole new stratosphere. Its high-tech wine preservation system means you can sample some of the most sought-after wines by the glass, like a Château Lafite Rothschild, at bargain prices. You can also try verticals (same producer, different vintages) and horizontals (California cult wines) from a 150-strong list.
WHERE TO SHOP
Who'd have thought you could combine celebrity watching with grocery shopping? At SoHo's Dean & Deluca (www.deandeluca.com), prepare to splurge on perfectly presented foods, sinful desserts, cookbooks and kitchen nick-nacks to cart back to Europe. Chelsea chicks swear allegiance to Balducci's (www.balduccis.com), where you can pick up Maple bourbon-glazed hams, fresh roasted on the premises, purple heirloom tomatoes and Indian mangoes. Those steering clear from carbs beware; the smell from the bakery is intoxicating. New Yorkers after fine food without the foxy clientele head instead to the more low-key but equally impressive Citarella (www.citarella.com), specialising in seafood, or the fruit and vegetable mecca of Fairway (www.fairwaymarket.com).
WHERE TO SIT
Be wowed at the US's greatest chef Thomas Keller's Per Se (www.frenchlaundry.com), sibling to his celebrated French Laundry on the West Coast in Napa. Fine dining doesn't come any finer than at this seriously grown-up venue for which even the most jaded New Yorkers wait months for tables and gush about the multi-course menus that range from a mere five to 17 tantalizing courses. Be sure to order Chaud froid, soft foie gras confit served with apple puree, cipollini onions and brioche croutons. Be dazzled at see-and-be-seen hotspot Buddakan (www.buddakannyc.com), which offers up a taste of the orient (Taro puff lollipops, Edamame dumplings) in sumptuous surroundings. Wear your Sunday best at Iron Chef Morimoto's minimalist, and distinctly Nobu-style, eponymous eatery (www.morimotorestaurant.com), where even the staff are clad in Ralph Lauren. Sample the likes of Rock shrimp tempura and Black cod miso. Indulge your inner child by gorging on ice cream smothered in chocolate sauce at Serendipity (www.serendipity3.com). Yesterday is so now. Celebs and media luvvies sit shoulder-to-shoulder, tucking into comfort classics like braised ribs and chicken pot pie, at Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter's distinctly yesteryear-influenced Ye Waverly Inn (16 Bank St, +1 212 243 7900). It doesn't look much, and it may not serve the best food, but the fact that you've dined there gives you instant street cred.
LONDON
LUX RATING: 17.5/20
WHERE TO SIP
Glamorous girls and high-rolling city gents flock to Kenza, the latest outpost from the Middle Eastern specialist Tony Kitous, the man behind Pasha and Levant. His tried-and-tested formula has been rolled out once again; exotic, brightly coloured décor, low lighting, comfortable lounges, sexy belly dancers and DJs to liven things up. Try the meze: the smooth, rich hummus and crispy falafel are real highlights (10 Devonshire Square, EC2, +44 20 7929 5533). Raymond Blanc's head sommelier, Xavier Rousset has fled the mother ship and joined forces with head chef Agnar Sverrisson to set up the much-anticipated Texture restaurant. Given Rousset's impressive pedigree (he won UK Sommelier of the Year in 2002 and became a Master Sommelier at just 23), expect expertly sourced drinks. The chic champagne bar serves up more than 85 cuvées from 25 different houses; the 300-strong wine list features stars like Château Mouton-Rothschild 2001 and Château d'Yquem 1991 by the glass (www.texture-restaurant.co.uk).
WHERE TO SHOP
Despite the buzz surrounding US organic giant Wholefoods, London's premiere gourmet experience is still to be had in the hallowed, gilded Harrods Food Hall. Even the plainest all-butter shortbread screams luxury when packaged in forest green, gold-embellished tins (www.harrods.com). Harrods' even more established counterpart resides down the road on Piccadilly. In September Fortnum & Mason reached its 300th birthday and to celebrate you can purchase gifts bearing its distinctive tercentenary livery. What could be more English than a special blend of tea, rose and violet creams or a jar of Stilton? (www.fortnumandmason.com)
WHERE TO SIT
London may be the flagship city of cool Britannia but it's getting hot under the collar about the hype surrounding L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, La Petite Maison and Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. Luckily the locals are fighting back with Chelsea favourite Tom's Kitchen, the more casual, perpetually packed offering from Mr Aikens (make sure you finish with the churros served with vanilla yogurt) or home of country cooking Bumpkin, where tousled trustafarians and Notting Hillbillies take refuge and refuel (www.tomskitchen.co.uk; www.bumpkinuk.com). Three-Michelin-starred Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road (www.gordonramsay.com), Japanese Zuma (www.zumarestaurant.com), Chinese Hakkasan (8 Hanway Place, W1, +44 20 7927 7000) and Chez Bruce (www.chezbruce.co.uk) still fly the flag for the city.
PARIS
LUX RATING: 19/20
WHERE TO SIP
The cool crowd has cruised away from the Costes and now consumes lethal, expertly made cocktails at the Andrée Putman-designed Pershing Hall Lounge Bar. The perfect pit stop after an intense shopping afternoon, the courtyard oasis featuring a vertical botanical garden has to be seen, while the DJ turns up the volume as the evening slips into night (www.pershing-hall.com). Those wanting something to munch with their Martinis should make a beeline for the George V bar which serves up the best lobster club sandwich in town (www.fourseasons.com).
WHERE TO SHOP
Fauchon is a food fan's wonderland: a megadelicatessen synonymous with fine French food. Steep prices might induce gasps but the food and choice will do so too (www.fauchon.com). There is only one place to buy macaroons in Paris: Ladurée's tea salon and patisserie. This institution, founded in 1862, has also become a tourist spot as visitors clutch the pastel-coloured boxes filled with the famous almond meringue cookies. Available in a multitude of flavours, be sure to try the ever-popular mixed berry variety (www.laduree.com).
WHERE TO SIT
In the game of culinary one-upmanship, the French have upped the stakes again. Held at Versailles in September 2008, The Dinner of the Chefs is your chance to have a taste of what it would be like to dine like King Louis XIV. In the banquet hall of Le Grand Trianon, you will savour a 15-course meal prepared by the world's best chefs (with a total of over 40 Michelin stars), including Alain Passard of L'Arpège (www.thedinnerofthechefs.com). If that's a little rich for your wallet, then chef Thierry Burlot serves up grand haute cuisine at Baccarat's Philippe Starck-designed Cristal Room. Name check the Salon Rose, with its black crystal chandelier, pink ceiling and satin, when booking (11 Place des États-Unis, +33 140 22 11 10). The minimalist white interior, sci-fi style laser lighting and projections of classic films at Maison Blanche provide the perfect background for Parisian posers to dine on the Pourcel twins' modern Mediterranean cooking (www.maisonblanche.fr). Meanwhile, bistro babes should head for the brasserie delights of Chez Michel (10 Rue de Belzunce, +33 144 53 06 20) and Chez Paul (13 Rue de Charonne +33 147 00 34 57). The Earl of Sandwich couldn't fail to be impressed by two starred Michelin chef Michel Rostang's grandly named Le Sandwich Tiède à la Truffe Fraîche au Pain de Campagne Grillé et Beurre Salé, which oozes pungent, truffle-laden butter (www.michelrostang.com).
