The stunning Pestana Palace hotel in Lisbon is reason alone to discover this enchanting Portuguese city
Lisbon is one of Europe's most under-rated cities. This is probably because few of us have ever given it a proper chance. The fact that it is tucked away in a corner of the continent doesn't help either. Short-break travellers tend to opt for Barcelona or Paris and the rest of us get close only when flying over Lisbon on our way to the beaches and golf courses of the Algarve.
It's a shame really because Lisbon is a truly charming city; a delightful maze of narrow cobbled streets and quiet squares with a majestic palace-lined waterfront all criss-crossed by old-world streetcars. The hip new Docas area of the city adds a modern touch - with its collection of chic restaurants, bars and open-air dining on a promenade facing the Tagus River and the marina - but even with all the renewal since the 2004 European Cup, Lisbon has retained a bit of run-down charm. It feels authentic and that, as any traveller in Europe knows, is a priceless commodity.
Until recently, the one thing Lisbon lacked was accommodation equal to its charms. That has finally been put right with the opening of the Pestana Palace, the flagship of the Pestana Group, owners of 36 hotels and 40 pousadas (the equivalent of the Spanish paradores), as well as six timeshare developments, three golf courses, two tourism property developments, a casino in Madeira, a charter airline company and four tour operators.
At the very top of all of this sits the Pestana Palace. A registered national landmark, the magnificent 19th-century palace comprises 190 rooms including 17 suites secluded within lush private gardens with panoramic views of the city and the Tagus.
The palace itself mirrors the city in which it lies, with old-world charm interspersed with modern amenities. Of note are the original chapel, with its impressive stained glass windows and carved alter, and the various common rooms, such as the Blue Salon with its museum-worthy collection of antiques and detailed woodwork. These sit side by side with modern conveniences like a high-tech gym, an indoor pool, a sauna, a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a Scottish bath.
The rooms too are a comfy mix of old and new. The high ceilings and large French windows offer a palatial sense of space while each comes equipped with everything you would expect of a modern five-star hotel, from air conditioning to high speed internet and in-house movies.
After a day of discovering the city, return to the tranquillity of Pestana Palace for a meal at the Valle Flôr restaurant, followed by a leisurely drink at Casa do Lago - a beautiful 19th-century oriental pavilion overlooking the swimming pool. One visit here and you're sure never to fly by Lisbon again. - Guy Fiorita
