The Authenticity Issue
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Top Right: Andreas Murkudis

Education

Labels Inc.

Education

Ra

Education

Farenah Concept

Education

Farenah Concept

Education

Andreas Murkudis

Education

Supermarket

Education

White Gallery

 

 

VELVET UNDERGROUND


Europe may be the centre of high fashion, but it also has a stunning range of alternative, brilliant and downright bizarre boutiques showcasing stuff you won't find anywhere else. LUX trawls basements and red light districts from Antwerp to Belgrade to bring you this guide to the 12 best women's fashion outlets you've never heard of. CAROLINE DAVIES


Andreas Murkudis BERLIN

In the depths of the Berlin red-light district lies Andreas Murkudis, a beacon to German avantgarde design. The store was in danger of losing its creative credentials as a fashion leader until the recent move to join edgy art galleries in Potsdamer Strasse. Now occupying 1,020 sq m of warehouse, it has seemingly endless space to play with under the watchful eye of Pierre Jorge Gonzalez and Judith Haase. They stock a carefully selected range in clothes and shoes from Maison Martin Margiela, Pringle and Yohji Yamamoto amongst others. Their block neutral colours with strong cuts are wearable rather than intimidating; understated rather than theatrical dressing.

Go there for: the crowd and well-chosen minimalist wardrobe
andreasmurkudis.net

 

L' Eclaireur PARIS

Playing with the boundaries of store and art installation, Armand and Martine Hadida have created a high fashion haven in the heart of the Marais. The first French distributor for Prada, Galliano and Martin Margiela, the couple are wellestablished pioneers in the world of luxury clothing and the first port of call for the newest pieces. The store is currently hosting a pop-up for the avantgarde designer, Damir Doma where, inspired by the anarchy of a designer's workshop, their autumn/winter range is surrounded by sketchbooks, mannequins and paper patterns.

Go there for: extreme luxury and immersive art
leclaireur.com

 

Labels Inc. ANTWERP

Exhibiting new talent is always a risk, but rather than burying them under designer brands, Labels Inc. flaunts its rising stars boldly. Specialising in discontinued designer items, it keeps itself fresh and directional through its partnership with the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Every month their show window is given over to a new talent, providing a platform for young designers and an opportunity for discerning customers to pick up a piece by a name of tomorrow. The collection ranges depending on the exhibitor, but recent items include unique logo t-shirts (DAA), oversized leather satchels (Lore Ongenae) and a voluminous collared leather jacket (Yusuke Hotchi).

Go there for: The next big thing
labelsinc.be

 

Nag People COPENHAGEN

From a small camper van on the edge of a Copenhagen fashion fair to a slick, avant-garde affair, Nag People has sprung from the fringes to the mainstream. Unlike rivals who have lost credibility with success, their Nordic rock and roll edge continues to attract the new lights of the Copenhagen clubbing scene. A somewhat eclectic selection, with leather featuring heavily alongside safari style rucksacks, heavy fur-trimmed parkas and peep toe stilettos. Interesting accessories and off beat clothing are its forte.

Go there for: classic takes on darker street fashion
nagpeople.com

 

Ra ANTWERP

While many stores describe themselves as "conceptual" few have a thatched roof hut as a centerpiece. A converted gallery, Ra refuses to fit into any conventional mold. It is essentially a designer store, the collection is suitably diverse including the bohemian designs of Meadham Kichhoff, the fantasist milliner Stephen Jones and conceptual pieces from John Rocha. Yet its outlandish range is almost outshone by its bizarre events. Nude model castings, performance art and a takeaway picnic service are all on offer from this endearingly hotchpotch shop.

Go there for: a surrealist experience in out-there fashion.
ra13.be

 

Farenah Concept SOFIA

Resembling a shambolic artist's studio apartment, Farenah Concept cultivates an atmosphere of carefully designed anarchy. Vintage bicycles, niche perfumes and luxury chocolates are strewn around the surfaces while well-known brands including Burberry and Vivienne Westwood jostle with lesser-known niche designers. The first concept store in Sofia, it prides itself on fostering culture in the city, hosting live music evenings with intriguing titles; who wouldn't be enticed by "graffiti jazz"?

Go there for: an artistic escape
farenah.com

 

White Gallery ROME

Although initially conceived as a contemporary art gallery, this lifestyle store quickly turned its hand to luxury fashion. Based on the outskirts of Rome, it has sufficient space to indulge in some truly spectacular interior design, boasting a large exhibition hall and two-storey restaurant designed with fluid curves and gleaming surfaces. Be warned, you may need help browsing the 5,000 sq m store, but the luxury of space does mean a broader selection and some homegrown talents such as clothes designer Maurizio Pecoraro and shoe designer Daniele Michetti.

Go there for: Serious couture shopping and a shot of culture.
whitegallery.it

 

Supermarket BELGRADE

Formerly a discount supermarket, Supermarket has one of the most unusual settings for a designer store. Oozing East European revivalist style, the store has been left deliberately rough; bare brick walls, cracks in the concrete floor, even the toilet doors are edgy, recouped from a cargo elevator. As suits a self-proclaimed hedonistic enterprise, Supermarket also has an on-site wine and chocolate bar as well as a hairdressers, beauty lounge, spa, and florist. Despite its quirky surroundings, the clothing collection is less daring, hosting Danish brands SNOB and Noblesse ranges in neutral colours while unusual accessories add interest.

Go there for: bare chic luxury.
supermarket.rs

 

Hospital ANTWERP

The high-design sibling of the cult shop Clinic, Hospital is housed in the former horse stables of the Antwerp racecourse. Honey toned walls and deep brown leather sofas make the vast store feel welcoming while a 70s white convertible, a gnarled living tree and a wine tasting room add an experimental touch. The space feels organic, rather than self-consciously alternative, selecting brands that teeter between established and avant-garde. Local talent such as AF Vandevorst and Tim Van Steenbergen combined with Jil Sander and Joseph give the collection an unusual twist on a preppy clean cut look.

Go there for: established brands with a quirky backdrop.
hospital-antwerp.com

 

Merci PARIS

Ever wandered around a fashionable friend's house wishing you could do your shopping there? Merci is a concept shop with a difference. Based in an airy Paris townhouse, you are free to wander from room to room, rummaging in treasure chests andbrowsing their wardrobes. Complete with an informal café and florist, the store exudes a warm, mellow glow that doesn't fade when you leave; all profits go to a women's cooperative charity in Madagascar.

Go there for: a languid afternoon shopping spree
merci-merci.com

 

Grays LONDON

A few paces from Oxford Street, buried in the underbelly of Grays market lie some of London's best vintage stores. After winding your way through its better-known antique jewelry stores it is easy to miss the trove of vintage treasures in the basement. The piles of brightly coloured taffeta and silk, soft lighting and the serene Koi carp pond at the center give Grays a 1930s opulence while their pieces can't help but inspire you to dress like a bright young thing.

Go there for: beautiful vintage and a sense of discovery
grayantiques.com

 

Sign of the Times LONDON

Tucked away off the King's Road, this unimposing shop is the spot to forage for designer goods. Carefully gathered from the area's Sloaney wardrobes, classic pieces from YSL, Hermes, Prada and Louboutin nestle together in this neat little store. Avoiding the trap of many vintage boutiques, Sign of the Times only keeps each item for 2 months so their range stays fresh, interesting and seasonal. Go there for: long gone designer items.
signofthetimesfressagency.com