THE NEW INTERNATIONAL STYLE

Rake and Hayward, rising from the ashes of the last incarnation of famed stylist Kilgour, are the two emerging names on the British tailor's block that every modern gentleman needs to know. Andrew Roberts reports

From a third floor suite at Claridge’s in London’s Mayfair, part of a very civilised men’s style revolution is underway. For this immaculately detailed Diane von Furstenburg suite is the temporary London HQ for one of menswear’s most significant new brands – Rake.

Founded by former Kilgour director, Clive Darby, this is a brand that respectfully rejects the associated constraints of nearby Savile Row. Instead he advocates an international and relaxed style that focus’ more on separate pieces that work well together - something Darby calls “flexible luxury”. While the ‘look’ may be less formal it is achieved while maintaining the highest possible attention to detail in its execution.

Rake is fast becoming one of the most soughtafter men’s brands and offers a distinctive alternative to more traditional choices. The collection is available through Matches in the UK and Boon in Hong Kong, while other retailers are currently negotiating with Darby.

Only a few hundred metres further down the road, another significant menswear brand is undergoing a revival and is also set to challenge the established order of men’s tailoring – Hayward, on Mount Street. Once famous for its association with style setters such as Michael Caine, Roger Moore and George Best, the Hayward shop - a beautiful gothic temple of elegant men’s style - has undergone a complete redesign and is now restored to better than its former glory.

At the heart of the Hayward revival is Richie Charlton, a second-generation tailor who also made a name for himself at Kilgour a few years ago. “The business was founded on egalitarian ideals where the landed gentry would rub shoulders with sportsmen, business people and actors. And bespoke tailors are defined by those customers; Hayward's customer base has always been the envy of the industry,” says Charlton.

Both Rake and Hayward are brands to take notice of. While one is completely new and the other is enjoying a new lease of life, both are highly significant brands and represent a new direction for high-end menswear.

Boundaries have changed and the way in which we function, live, work, dress and act have moved on. People wear a suit because they choose to wear a suit, not because they have to.

This does not mean they can’t be bothered or they have no respect, they are just conveying their look and their own style,” explains Darby. At Hayward there is a greater emphasis on formality but they are as equally non-conformist as Rake, “Our ‘ready to wear’ line is not fashion – we aim to hit a fine line between classic and contemporary. Our ready to wear suits have a full canvas construction and are cut along the lines of our bespoke tailoring, it is not a generic block off the shelf. Every piece of our collection is designed by us and exclusive to Hayward and is as luxurious as we can make it,” Charlton adds.

So what are the key items for this Spring/Summer going to be from these two irreverent style-setting brands? Rake’s signature piece each season is its one button blazer. It’s incredibly versatile and can be worn with almost anything. Each season it will appear in a slightly different guise. It’s a must have, simple as that.

As any regular traveller knows versatility is key to a successful business or casual wardrobe and in this sense the Rake travel Mac is essential. It comes with its own travel bag – but it’s the wool and cashmere Teflon coated collar that really sets it apart.

We have no rules as to how you wear the collection, other than you enjoy,” according to Darby. As for Hayward, next Spring/Summer will also see a new lightweight raincoat and a new blouson. In addition to immaculately cut suits a new collection of Mélange Merino knitwear will debut as well as a new shirt block.

And if you choose to wear a tie the new Hayward club tie which makes a slight nod to Donegal tweed is a good choice if you want a more individual style, as Charlton puts it: “Our clothes are perhaps a little bit country, a little bit rock and roll!”.