NUMBER 26 - SPRING 2008
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We arrived at Birkenhead House a little before lunch to a sky turning Atlantic-navy with wispy cirrus streaking the Ocean’s endless horizon.

Hermanus capitalises, understandably, on its amazing magnetic attraction with the whales, especially the playful Southern Right. You WILL see several of these glorious mammals between June and December when they parade, almost within touching distance from the shore, while for the rest of the year they feed peacefully in the Antarctic. Having one of the greatest gifts of all – unadulterated nature – on its doorstep, Hermanus is privileged. What is more, it’s only 90 minutes from Cape Town.

So, already advantaged with Nature’s gems, and in a setting quite divine, Birkenhead House could have rested on these laurels alone. Instead, they have pulled out all the stops on luxury, creating the cushion-cut jewel in Africa’s Atlantic crown. The ‘wow’ factors here are impressive: a Provençal-Mediterranean-Cape-Ocean vibe with a hint of Tuscany, ubiquitously stamped by the wand of Liz Biden, originator and owner of the Royal Portfolio. The ‘family’ of staff behind this multi-talented coutureescape- visionary have been cherry-picked with outstanding service results.

There is an unfettered charm at Birkenhead, spearheaded by the groovy linen-clad-cool manager, Shane. The casual atmosphere oozes from a sensuous blend of details together with the knock-out fixtures and fittings; bold African portraits, enormous plump white sofas, half-filled decanters languishing on side-tables, antique French-dressers, chandeliers, planters of olives trees, sculptures, the soothing balm from the ocean’s breeze and a glass frontage exposing the achingly beautiful panorama of sea-meets-sky.

We stayed in the newly refurbished and recently acquired Birkenhead Villa, next door to Birkenhead House, which has a ore contemporary fine-line feel and, for some, is perhaps more private. We had a stylish room-en-suite, with a phenomenal sea view; our sumptuous white beds were decorated with a display of colourful fresh pansies; the champagne was on ice: we felt special.

We went for a drink at the conservative Marine Hotel in the centre of Hermanus. It didn’t take long before we started pining for a return to Birkenhead as we missed the upbeat tempo of the haute Cape-to-St Tropez pulse. However, setting convention aside and, as though on cue, we were soon distracted by the arrival of a pod of whales frolicking and playing with kelp in clear view from the bar.

Where you dine in the evening at Birkenhead depends on the weather so, with the wind frustratingly blustery, we dined inside on fresh catch-of-the-day, yellowtail, together with a superb choice of local Viognier.

Find out more and book direct with the hotel at www.luxuryexplorer.com